Gixer1460

Sounds like it! Blow through carbs shouldn't need much more on the main jet compared to NA as the pitot tube should ensure equal pressurisation. But as you have changed so many things at the same, time it will be difficult to pin it down to one thing!

Wow! - melodramatic - you are definitely 'a glass half full' type of person!

Have a sneaking suspicion that the liners OD is the same across both models - the Blandit is I believe 1mm bigger - can't confirm though!

Generally done with carbs and exhaust - easiest and cheapest. Sometimes via ignition. Nothing in the bottom end with ability to restrict output (without major cost) so should be identical!

Agreed. And rising rate FPR's are for muppets who can't be bothered to get the installation correctly mapped relying on increase in pressure rather than fuel flow based on load demand. Although many OEM installations are 'dead headed and run NA fine when turbos start to get used for performance then external FPR's and return lines tend to be used more often - for me the latter method works better IMO.

Yeah - understand the reasoning but are we agreed that the wheel needs to be central which will require quite a bit of in / offset of the hub to match up with the bike hub. Which throws up another problem - the extra load due to the offset on the bearings which you can't move!

I believe it's 'swings and roundabouts' - traditional draw through has longish exhaust and ultra short inlet whilst the newer blow through has ultra short exhaust and long inlet. But IMO the latter 'could' suffer a degree of lag due to the considerable air volume that has to be compressed before creating measurable boost..............but it really is marginal. Can't say I've ever worried about lag or slow delivery with either combination - but do like having facility of a air to air IC. Bruteforce's install should be laggy with its large exhaust volume and extended pipe runs - but I don't believe he has any complaints!

Am I missing something as that VFR / tyre combo looks to be 2 - 3" off to the left?

It wasn't blow through - the turbo stayed in the same place - replaced the S&S with a big Throttle body!

Oh forgot to say if anyone wants to copy this manifold that I made for my first draw through then modified for oldskool blow though - feel free! PM me if you would like pdf copies - they are A1 sized prints.

Liking this a lot - everything is short and direct - minimal losses. Hope there is going to be lots of insulation between the header and the IC? Fan under seat - very sensible......

No pictures - just drilled and tapped blind hole for a M6 steel screw and cut head off so it cleared the sensor.......same way Suzuki did it with the early Hayabusa's.

BTW - how did we get into 'side stand' switch deletion? Frankly if peeps can't work out how, even with limited electrical knowledge, then they shouldn't be asking!. It is there for a reason - may be for the peeps who have to ask how to delete it? Sorry if that offends anyone ...............................deal with it LOL!

Rationalised and legalised it for you.

Worked for me!

The brass crimp is factory - seen it lots of times on various manufacturers looms - the bare reds look odd though!

Liquid filled mechanical types are just so much more reliable on bikes than dry electronic ones - high frequency vibes will usually kill them or shake them to bits - my personal preference!

I thought the 1100 M / N was the only bike with 40's?

Yes would spool quick but soon choke itself. My first T2 came from a 1900cc diesel - max boost @ about 3500rpm but just wouldn't make anymore power - flat as! As to numbers - Turbine A/R 0.48 worked on mine but the turbine wheel was not the same it started with so it's a of bit guesswork!

Maybe, but if that shaft costs 10% of the area, you are still up 15% BUT airspeed will be lower so giving a less 'punchy' response which is probably why racers like slide carbs? But Suzuki didn't fit 38mm CV's to the Race 750RR's for no reason - just sayin'!

It looks bloody small - maybe even a T2? Possibly off a diesel with the small dia. turbine?

Intriguing project but I can't immediately see how the frame mods will help with chain run and car wheel / tyre use - watching with interest though! Just out of interest - car tyre in preference to a super wide bike tyre ....... reasoning?

Can't be sure but I believe the Oiler rockers have a different ratio so either increase or decrease valve lift in a GSX head. Unless you are chasing every last HP, i'd stick to what the engine came with!

Doesn't do jack! Some have tried 'resonators' between 1&2 and 3&4 but more marketing tool than performance enhancement! As 2 and 3 fire adjacent - you'd 'unbalance' flow from 1 and 4 for no gain.

That's nice - not too shouty!