nlovien

he has produced a few great looking bikes and certainly has an eye for photography - i'll try and get him to chime in and pass on the story of this build

guiltless lay nicked from another forum cause its a very nice bike and it should be on here, not there

will be there soaking up all the classic bike porn

as above, nice to see it built as it was all they way inclusive of the running gear ex pipe brakes etc..

if you go with ignitech, seriously consider their 3D version, i've not used it ( do have a 2D) but the feed back from a well respected race bike builder suggests it is well worth the additional cost - basically with the addition of a throttle position sensor you can map the ignition relative to load and rpm providing a significant mid range improvement over a 2D set up Downside would be the time and focus in building the map to suit

also got a 1100L in my Harris - I often pondered over tuning the engine and found a great set up, spent my money at maxton on one of their shocks and a front fork revalve = recon it was worth an extra 50 hp - a good std 1100L has more than enough ponies for me to push a light harris up hills - apologise if this comes across as a smary post, I love tuning engines but things like Harris framed bikes go faster when you focus on suspension and set up

to get an idea if your heading in the rigth direction, when your out for a run - check yourself ref: riding position, do you find your arms are straight - stiff, locked onto the bars ?? - if so, relax them - aim for a light easy touch on the bars with yir elbows bent - you try this and yir bumb is sliding fwd ? = you need to continue changing the seat to bars set up ignore this over time, you will start to experience a bit of wobble / tank slappers if you don't adapt to a nice loose grip on the bars

overall weight is one thing = suspension effect, where the weight is = more important - you don't want the weight out at the rim = centrifugal effect

the top seat is what I've used - its just the right thing for these things - gives you the xr69 look - you can obviously see the slightly moded version on my project page - they come in long and short style from ragged edge racing - gets a on this selection

Thanks for reply, ok the rear loop is going to be covered in alloy sheet for an old school cafe race look ?

1st thoughts were a rear cooler with fan ducting ala Beneli or Britten, however noted a bit of templating going on in the usual place, soooo - given the choice of swing arm with a convenient scallop out of the RH side - me thinks twin under seat silencers ?

brilliant - got loads of questions but 1st carbs: a real nice aspect of your frame design is you seem to have a decent clearance for the carbs ref: the frame rails = you got room to think about a bit of porting / downdrafting fo the carbs - i.e. raise the port roof and port angle - kinda daft thing you note after the frame is built - ideally you want to keep the flow as straight as possible so best try re spacing the carbs to match std stubs anyway - looks like your using tig for welding - and a steel rods - can you confirm on your pipe material grade / wall thickness and what rod spec your welder is using, I doupt its been post weld heat-treated but did he post weld heat it up and let it slowly cool to aid easing out any weld stress's - and or, did you build the welds gradually by stitching around the chassis parts or did he full weld each joint then move on to next - - -reason for asking is, quite a few folks do, or would like to do such things and armed with the web you tend to find a rather lack of detail knowledge from folks who have actually done it and made it work, plenty nae slayers armed with the text book who tend to fear you with post apocalyptic devastation should you even consider trying part jest - but seriously, any info you can pass on ref: how would be great knowledge shared

don't know nout about this, however I do know about a guy in NZ who reliably sorted another manufacturers well known cam chain destruction std guides and got the engine to safely rev. a further 2K part because of this. all in the shape of the guide and something to do with harmonics - anyway, might be worth contacting him to chat about it - guy called Brent Hyde - for obvious reasons no link posted

great thanks - that's the answers I was hoping for, basically saying - set up to suit using typical basic tuning = they are a decent fork. - i'm fitting a short top extension ( presently making a top dog leg triple clamp so the joint will be across the clamp) - this will also enable me to fit a side entry link pipe for the air valve and keep the pre load adjuster cheers - good to know i'm on an ok track given the work needed

Hi, presently working on a front end with a set of these forks ( the ones with the manual anti dive knob). What would you recommend doing / getting done to these to help bring them into the 21st century ? - previously i've sent stuff like this to maxton but i'm on a dIY budget 1st fit shrader valves - next ? many thanks

heading in a better direction but the size really doesn't work - you want the back of the seat fwd of the rear wheel, go take a look at Neate Racings Harris endurance bike, the seat they use would look good ( - also i've got this one you could try - if you want some key dimensions of it ?

i'm no guru on this - ref: rear positive/ negative squat but I aim to set the front sprocket centre such that when the suspension is flat the wheel spindle to swing arm pivot to sprocket centre lines up, i.e. on a typical set up with a reasonable bit of swing arm droop, if you take a line from the wheel spindle through the swing arm pivot, the sprocket centre is 10/15mm below this line ( copied from the master frame builder Mr Peckitt ), once running you can make changes to how the squat works by a few things Change the sprockets - i.e. keep the same ratio = this changes the load line through the chain - 1 tooth up at front + 3 teeth more at back, or 1 less and 3 less, you get the jist raise / lower the initial swing arm droop and or where the front forks sit in the yokes - this again can change the load line + it can raise / lower the COG if you have eccentric rear wheel adjusters - you got 3 choices to play with - on the centre line, eccentric top and eccentric bottom - ok yi got to play with chain slack / sprocket sizes to find the sweet spot then you can muck about with wheel sizes / tyre aspect ratio ( the handling of my mag3 was transformed from a lazy old school feel that needed lots of counter steer when power out of corners to one of the sharpest yet stable and neutral bikes i've owned when I raised the rear, dropped the front - and stuck a fireblade 16" front wheel on her ( much better than a 17" 120)

the seat pad angle is key to getting a good fit - if you have it slopping fwd too much ( which may be more cosmetically appealing ) you end up with too much weight on your arms to bars - get it so your supported by the seat without having to constantly push yirself back

you can see some track footage of Whitham albeit on the warm up lap - and maybe in the kittylitter after the 1st lap - a good watch either way

there it was - I read it, i'm sober - it was there, I replied and hit the enter button which turned into the post exterminator - caboom thing is, i'd like to chat to the original poster about the red one - wrong forum for such things but i'm presently working on something similar and would really like to know more about it

that deserves a triple, brilliant work

yi want to try an Acrapovic ?, I can't get my one to fit around the frame - its the same as this one

paint job looked familiar, must have been inspired from the inside of a spray booth or the back wall where yi blow off the thinners wash after a spray job - or maybe one of them sticky rock candies yi get at the fun fare - or maybe its just a flash back to a miss spent youth when Syd Barrett was the in thing

brill - intrigued how they managed to paint the harris frame yet expose the brazing

what ever them scrummy lookin pies do for yi, keep munchin