nlovien

this guy keeps producing good stuff - and the daft bugger posts em on a Gurls blouse forum, thought i'd correct this - this is over 170hp at the crank

going to add a bit of mindless atitude spent the last few days of available idle time making a 17mm ID hole in a swing arm bush - now i'm rural ( nearest shop of need 25miles) - don't have a 17mm drill bit - have 15mm max - silly cheap boring bit for my 1936 vintage lathe wouldn't accurately bore a sore tooth so I cut n shaped a new one - job done - probably cost me more than biting the bullet and digging into my Scottish super glued wallet and buying a 17mm drill - hayho, its fun making it work with what you have - you do learn (better at shaping cutting bits) - and the hole is probably now more accurately 17mm than a drill bit would achieve anyway - cause its not 17mm - its the size that matches the OD of the wheel spindle bit missed out ?? - didn't tell you about the x 2 other things I tried in vain to achieve the hole - they went in the bin, all part of the fun - fear not a mistake or a bodge - its right to do it right but its not worng to do it otherwise - and its better to try and fail versus not trying at all its Sunday - preaching is fine but its ok, its Monday tomorrow

pressure differential is what makes these things work - add in damping effect ( hose size etc.). to achieve the desired rate of pressure change signal going to post the nice intro onto a certain Gurls blouse CB forum - these guys need to learn this stuff, probably time wasted - just get another lecture on why not to remove the airbox

back in its original container - to be treated with respect but going to keep it - so bloomin good at cleaning burs / files that have been contaminated with alloy

loud and clear - thanks!

yes, very much so - half the glass wall gone below the fluid line and even the glass above the fluid has been etched - like a bathroom window - just read up hydroflouric acid - thanks for the heads up - not stuff to play with!

last week I also got rid of some anodising - also got rid of the alloy it was attached to - - and half the wall thickness of the glass the stuff I used was put in not sure what the stuff is ( unlabelled container found lurking in an old farm shed ) - but it smokes when you take the lid off - works a treat cleaning alloy that has stuck to a pencil grinder burr! - seriously good shit

be canny ref: the hone and new rings fix - its often not the fix your looking for ending up with a slappy piston that drinks oil you can end up with too much piston to bore clearance whilst still using pistons that maybe the route of the problem via worn ring grooves and chucking out a set of rings that are probably still in service ref: end gap clearance my experience is - if you feel the need to rotate something inside the bore - rotate it enough to fit a bigger piston

picked up a running 1100ez about a yr ago - not the nicest thing but all there with a 30K motor = £700 - sometimes taking the bits that atatch to the engine can find you a better price, and if you bring yourself to break it then you can recover much of this problem is "project creep " - picked up another bike for the 18"dymags on it for project no. 2 - forsure i'll part the rest out - nope its presently project no.3 and the gsx above ? - i've already started gathering bits - project no. 4 argh!!! - project no. 1 isn't making progress because of all this

nice one story doesn't hit hard enough on just how mad the CBR was when it 1st came out - my 1st go on one - what the fook is this !!, I can walk into a show room and buy this thing - it was brilliantly mad and sooo easy and confidence inspiring - made a note to self - don't buy one = you will end up in a ditch not because it doesn't work, more because it works so blooming well - wasn't till I got on a mid 90's GSXR750 with trick suspension did I achieve the same feeling of road riding invisibility that only something that,s just right can provide- maybe that,s the twist here i.e. swap the 1100N in the test for a GSXR750

also keep in mind bent swing arm - seems to be more common than expected - had an issue with a present project ref: wheel alignment and it was down to the LH arm leg sitting 8mm higher than the RH one - so atleast check the rear wheel spindle is straight relative to the swing arm mounting spindle

I have a counter bore on the top side for the spigot thing to sit in - as above, it swallows the extra length - as I 1st rebuilt the carbs with the plunger the wrong way around I got the same symptoms as you - hence why the focus on this - is your 2 plunger picture one of the top and one of the bottom ? or two diffrent ones

this is the exact stuff I used to strip a harris frame - I also used it to remove a twin pack epoxy fuel tank liner downside ? - there's no "sticky" viscosity to it so tried things like wrapping a cloth wetted with it, hands on keep working it with steel wool ( until yir fingers go numb with frostbite ) - made up a flour paste emulsion - they all worked to some degree - if you can immerse the part in this stuff - no problem, no paint or plastic, 2nd was the frostbite fingers and if it fails you can at-least destroy a few brain cells by sniffin it http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Methylene-Chloride-Dichloromethane-99-5-10-Litre-10L-/302407462129?hash=item4668e3acf1

I had a similar issue when rebuilding a set of mikuni 38's - flipped the plunger , the spring now sits on the shouldered top cap - the rod sits inside plunger = the plunger now swallow's up the 6/7 mm of rod as its hollow from the other-side - no idea if this works for you but it looks similar

mark the throttle in 1/4 steps and look for the throttle position when the accel pump squirts - if it doesn't = something wrong check you have the piston that the plunger rod push's ( the bit inside the float bowl socket) the right way around that looks like Spa ?

picked up another wee tweak last week - bronze welding ( or is it brazing ?) anyway using TIG takes a bit of learning when you use rods that have good strength and dissimilar metal or chrome moly compatibility - also, although much less heat than actually welding the bits - still needs a fair amount - ok thats the high stress parts use a basic bronze tig rod ( low silicon) - cheap, flows easy on low heat for all your other needs - recon you could include bracing flanges in this list, where there isn't an obvious high bending force across the work - TBH i'd be confident using this stuff on any steel based frame as a means to stick low stress bits onto it - i'm using maybe 40 amps with a bit of higher pulse just to start it off, once it starts flowing - maybe down to 30 amps

your on the right track ref: - step back and go look this thing over as a project start versus a few issues to fix, you've already picked up enough to get the alarm bells ringing - a few bodges example - you've noted the rear wheel alignment being out - mind and also check the wheel spindle is parallel to the swing arm spindle - i've seen swing arms out by 8mm - i.e. one leg higher than the other, this causes a biased handling where it will drop into one side versus demanding additional effort to turn the other way - makes aligning the wheels accurately impossible - end result is a bike you'll be able to trust and apply common sense to feed back on how it performs once you rule out as many as the variables as you can enjoy it as a project build

nice place to start though - I wouldn't be concerned ref: stepped top yoke - you can gain maybe 25 to 30mm - the majority of the loads are taken by the bottom yoke, the top it kinda just holds it all together - the rear swing arm rake looks ok - you could reduce ti a few degree via changing the tie rod length - assuming you have the right springs ? - with you on the bike - aim for 25 -30% of total travel as your starting point but it does look low

I've picked up a frame from another manufacture that has been braced - common to how the frames were moded for the IOM - in their day - its an interesting variation on what is typically done the top middle of the frame where the single top tube pass's the two top side rails where they are curved 1st form a bend to match the curve of the two side rails - about 4" either side of the curve - then cut mid point along the length of these bent tubes to form saddles which you weld onto the bottom of the existing side rails - i.e. basically doubling up on the wall thickness at the curve 2nd repeat the same but now on the top (outside of the curve on the side rails) 3rd then form a plate into shape that covers the side rails and the centre tube and stich this onto all x 3 tubes

sounds good - enjoy

thats the 1st, then look closely and see if there are any signs that the no. has been tampered with - ideally if you have a similar engine you compare the stamping type best is if you can get the bike reg. from the seller = plenty online sights that will then confirm the no. - TBH tactfully approaching the seller about its history / response will give you a good gut feel otherwise I don't know how to get it checked with just the engine no. other than amending a V5 and sending it to DVLC - if it comes back yir good - if ti doesn't - dunno, could open a can of worms - but contact DVLA and they may advise you'll gather i've previously been caught out - spending a lot of time and money on a project bike - it did have appropriate documents but it was a ringer, one tiny bit of "not right" on the chassis no. = I went to the police to get it checked and lost the lot - lesson learned on a few accounts anyway, bloomin good bargain

plugs oot, cam cover off - liberal wet around the cams buckets with fresh oil and spin her until you see a good supply to the head - got good flow and no obviously nasty sounding things going on - fire her up oh, and check the engine no. yi don't want to be spending time on it if it ain't legit - not suggesting it ain't, just a good precaution

the venturi helps to speed up and smooth out the airflow - less turbulance = less back pressure (choke) = more potential flow

i'd hassard a guess that run 3 = you've lowered the needle to the point where its restricting full flow from the main jet ( not able to lift clear) - your running CV carbs ? - i.e. throttle position is not directly linked to needle position - i.e. you've found a nice picture of the limits of play with the needles you have and if this is the case, the picture also helps to sugest what needle shape your needing

symptoms described are inline with changing to stacks versus filters - i.e. leaning out, however before you do anything - recommend you remove the carbs then remove and inspect the idle screw tips ( before opening them up from their present position) - they are prone to leaving the tip jammed into the carb body port if slightly overtightened - i.e. no idle jet circuit flow recommend this to anyone acquiring these carbs 2nd hand if they are good then this is your 1st place - i.e. increase the no. of turns out - max around 3 1/2 turns - this will richen things up in the initial throttle / low rpm range but be careful, you have changed 2 key bits ( filter and ex pipe) - there is no reason to expect any other parts of the fuelling to now be in sync i.e. be prepared to move onto the main jet mind - if your going to get into the jetting to back off the accelerator pump whilst doing this plugs - to get a meaningfull reading ref: mixture - you really need to be holding the engine load at the rpm / throttle opening condition your investigating then hit the kill switch