nlovien

likewise enjoyable read that makes me inquisitive - i'm going to be trying a few runs next year, something new for me - would be really interested in reading your learning experiences initially - before the clutch mod's - did you use the back brake to aid getting off the line, if so how did you evolve this technique also ref: your two stage lock up clutch ( i've aquired one of these) - can you go into more detail with respect to how this "feels" , what happens - what do you / clutch does that makes things faster my ignorant and probably incorrect assumption is - you have these two sets of fingers that you modify by adding / subtracting weight to match a set rpm - is it the clutch slips until the 1st stage rpm is reached - the slippage reduces until the 2nd stage rpm then you have full bite ????? - what do you as the rider experience when getting off the line couple of mates are at the wheel spin and wheely stage of learning - having a great time - hence the bug to give it a go many thanks

I use one of these - aldi's had a run on them - this has paid for itself many times over just in cut off discs - you get much more life out of them versus free hand cutting, i.e. keep the pressure off the disc get it right and you can achieve end to end welds with TIG without filler https://www.amazon.co.uk/105422-115MM-Quality-Electric-Grinder/dp/B00L903ROQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1510244966&sr=1-2&keywords=angle+grinder+stand

got an inclin to stick a cree bulb with its own lipo cell pack into something like a pair of slabby gsxr headlights - classic endurance racer style - remove for MOT to save any hassle- if the push bikers get away with causing eppy fits in car drivers with their flashing head torches - no reason why we can't added pic for some inspiration - apologise for the amature spray job

book spec sheet base setting for rs40's is 140main / no. 3 groove on needles / 17.5 for pilot jet and a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the pilot screws std issue practise = remove the pilot screws and check the tips are still there - punt off the K/N's and fit 50mm stacks with a pair of socks

personally I'd go further and suggest "cans" full stop just don't work - always prefer with any of these late 70's to mid 80's fantastic frames with big aircoolled motors the long tapered mid section to a shorter straight then end cap - all welded up - like a bigger traditional harris pipe - fabricated to fit with the frame all nicely tucked in versus the bolt on stick out look

can feel yir pain " measured by the eye and a size 11 boot"- if it don't look right just take a few more steps back

going through the process of accurately finding TDC in prep for cam timing is also beneficial in accurately setting your ignition timing - generically ( i.e. not to any specific engine) the std means of setting the base ignition timing is subject to wear via worn slots /pins bolt holes etc.. - only takes a small movement to loose / gain maybe 5 deg actually measuring your existing cam timing ( not necessarily changing it) also gives your base setting - known versus assumed = this will help you down the road when you get some performance data to work with any one variable may not make a noticeable change however the sum of all variables will - fook knows who quoted that, they weren't daft though

few degree doesn't sound much but amplify this over the fork length and it makes a measurable difference ref: trail or wheel base - wheel base makes a notable difference ref: weight distribution ok so you "modernise" a more classic chassis by fitting larger offset yokes = to reduce the trail - easiest and most common method - do this to something that has say 27deg rake ( typical older than old school) and the additional offset does push the front out somewhat, pull back the rake by 1deg and that does bring the front back in again helping to get the weight onto the front - this is atleast round 3 in the project build fine tweak department

I know John Neate ref: "Neate Racing" send his dymags to some guru who does wonders with these and brings them back to life - i.e. if you get stook - give him a shout for advise

I am adjusting for the changed wheel width - thats the easy bit - TBH you don't need a forum discussion to achieve this basically A-B/2 sets the wheel ( once you know everything else is good) - position the wheel to this and make bushings to fill the gaps and if you know from previous knowledge that everything else is good, then for-sure you can simply do the above but if you just assume everything else is good - hayho - live lucky - or you could take a different approach ( i'm helping a guy who is doing this method) = he is putting his chassis to a company with a jig = they will tell him if all is good so he can then go for A-B/2 or they will tell him "its not quite right but if you add / subtract Xmm from A-B/2 then you'll be good" the long way takes away the assumption, removes the need for luck - its done, not so much to get your rear wheel in the right place, thats a positive outcome, its to confirm all is good with the chassis alignment - of which keeping the wheels inline is only part of - for most of us, chassis alignment is an important part of project building

lovely thing - hoping you decide to aim as close as possible to the way it was - ref: classic racer

thanks - good useful info ref: 41mm slabby improvement and the real world fens road feed back = sounds like similar play ground for myself - my own best of best for similar bumpy and rippled country roads is a set of 45mm original fireblade forks with a maxton tweak - I like to twiddle with things but these - I fitted them to my Harris and forgot they had adjusters you really can have yir cake and eat it - they soak up the bumps and even better the faster ripple/chatter stuff- give you the kind of feed back that makes you feel your in direct contact with the tyre yet keep things controlled under heavy braking - problem now is I want every bike I build to behave the same way ( these are a relatively short fork though)

OK got to tell a story, over the last few nights I've been trying to do all this on a project bike and I've been close to loosin it argh!!! - just as well I smoke cause if I didn't I would by now I couldn't get the wheels to line up - or I could via my parrallel rods between wheels but the good old eye said no - what the fook was wrong - 10min ago I got it - going to enjoy a nice dram tonight - bollocks going to enjoy a bit of home grown as well so what was it ?? checked the wheels were vertical via a plumb line = tick checked the rods were equally spaced along the length = tick swing arm pivot to wheel axle previously checked to confirm arm not bent = tick got in touch with owners of same type of bike to confirm where the std wheel sits ref: swing arm sides = tick checked the chain adjuster marks on the swingarm ref: swingarm pivot = tick what the fook is left --------------------------------- ok its got spondon drag extenders on the swing arm, these have sliding bush's - I had been "assuming" the punch mark for wheel alignment was at the axle centre - bollocks, made a measurement to another bit and hayho one punch mark was about 1.5mm off the axle centreline ok so the rear wheel was not parallel to the front when using the adjuster marks - so I was adjusting the front to match the parallel rods and in doing this I had to move the rear aprox 15mm over to get the front to centre on the rods so I set the rear wheel to the swingarm pivot bolt - not the adjusters and bingo - i'm within a mm of what the std wheel says it should be - it looks straight and the front is equal spaced ref: the rods and the moral is ?? - I could have just used the std wheel relationship to swingarm, adjusted for the new wider wheel and hayho the wheel would have been +/- ok ref: axle spacing and then I would be blissfully unaware that i'm setting the chain adjustment on the cock, wondering why i'm eating sprockets and the bike having a bias for left versus right hand corners - ok this has been an error by someone putting the mark in the wrong place ( as said its a custom part versus production) - doesn't matter - taking the opportunity to Aline the wheels the hard way highlighted the error - its also confirmed the frame is good, both wheels dangle straight - bloomin good health check now

from the stuff i've done - I would say more likely than not - you want a perfectly aligning frame etc.. - then go pay to get one built - leads to another point - where to measure ref: wheel to wheel - top / bottom / axles ?? - for me its as close as you can get to the bottom ( tyre contact) whilst keeping a reasonable spacing between the wheel front and back side of the rim - its fair to assume that the steering head is not going to be 100% perpendicular to the swing arm axle ( plus as previous said - the wheel spindle parallel to the swing-arm axle ) so you can compensate a bit by measuring low - at the end of the day its tyre contact to match tyre contact - its an opportunity for a bit of fine tuning - blue printing for free - will you notice though ? - with a big heavy cruzer broozer on a sunday cruze = nope, with a fine handling, relatively light bike ridden as it should be - absolutely = horses for courses

hopefully someone reading all this is finding out stuff - a wee note on the 1st important bit = get yir chain adjustment marks 100% spot on ( does need accurate measurement - typically taken from the swing arm pivot mount) - get this out by a fraction of a mm = amplify this error to the front wheel by +/- 6ft length and you can easily be tricked into thinking the wheel needs spacing by 5, 10 mm when its the back wheel running squint to the front ( versus offset) The next bit is to confirm the rear wheel axle is parallel to the swing-arm pivot - if its not ( and plenty are not!) then again - the rear wheel is cocked and give a false reading when comparing to the front this stuff does need accuracy because you amplify the error via the length to the front

you got plan - "trick and treat" - works for me the mountain of shit in front of you never gets smaller - it just gets pushed along - no point in floggin yirsel sort a chunk on the list - treat yirsel to a tweak on the bike - as said you'll never shift the mountain but the bike will then get finished I've just finished making my stacks - enjoyed making them - job done - price ?? - cost me to sand the front door crap job, took longer than making the stacks - hayho, I got my stacks - good lady got the door sanded - to varnish it is now on the mountain of shit list, thats going to cost her a rear wheel spacing

agree ref: the Pirsig thing, I only got into it after the 4th attempt - in Scotland that's a sign of being thran thing is - the point of taking the pleasure versus frustration from achieving the small part in its own right, work's for me - almost!! - problem I now have is I get sucked into enjoying making detail - not so good at finishing a project though, but then again these things never really get finished - project bikes always need another tweak take a bow for the work you have already done - the inspiration for the next bit will come is it Sunday ?

na, its just the bench marks and goal posts may need a bit of tweaking - enjoy succeeding in bite sized chunks take a chill and go read some Robert Pirsig

coming along nicely - lots of time and brain consuming detail bits that are often the cause of many a project sulking - after the big bits are done- keep going dude

its yours pm yir address - you wouldn't happen to have a std one or something that fits ?

just got this one home, poor thing needing rescuing - its not too shabby, all the key bits are there - fairing is in a box of bits - it runs - ok in need of a bit of balancing but mechanically sounds fine I really don't have time for this one - dunno, sense says stop - yi got too many projects - oh to fook with sense, idea's keep popping up - these bikes don't need much to turn into something quite tasty - TBH with the fairing and the right colour scheme - ok a set of slabby 18" wheels and 41mm RWU forks - half decent 4-2-1 - touch of frame bracing - set of longer rear springs and a 2/4 seat - oh and a set of gsxr 36mm flatslides - and on and on it goes - - put in shed - finish at-least one of the other projects or move this one on to someone who does have the time

liking a lot of the comments - proper forks / none wavy discs / old school aircoolled not suiting CF etc.. - I agree on all this and would add a preference for 18" wheels and a rear tyre size max 150 - maybe 160 tops - all part of keeping these things classic in style whilst offering a sprinkling of more up to date stuff - kinda morphing them into a classic prod. based period race bike

keep yir nose to the ground and you can sniff out some great - part finished projects that often come loaded with bits - good things can be found at fair prices - and you end up with your own take on things - no use asking for permission - yi got to balls out and be prepared to ask for forgiveness

aye It's good to have a larf