nlovien

TBH - the 36 is such a nice carb to work with - responds to common sense tweaking - haven't tried the 38 yet - got a set but like the 36 so much never felt the desire to bugger about with the 38's - yet

and i'll just throw in a wobbly and go the other way basing it more on how you may use the engines the 810 - sounds like you'll be more intent in chasing rpm = big carb the 1100 - more of a mid ranger = smaller carb yi also got the height to consider - harris + DOT head with downdraft port + taller 38 carb - could be a frame clash - atleast TBC

not necessarily a downside -- I can "visualise" a good reason for it - up right things yea ok, but picture loading up the rear whilst leaning over on a corner exit - i'd be looking for the softer touch in this condition to help reduce the likelihood of the rear stepping out

I spent days / nights with a die grinder "finding" the mitre shape by hand on plough steel tube before repeating on the chrome moly - 8 though feeler gauge was the pass/ fail toy next time - for the headstock I will make a tool - - bring all the headstock tubes together ( typically x 6) then machine the lot back to fit the headstock - something like a drum flycutter to undersize then finish with a drum sander - Magnum as yir making a jig - think about stuff like this - how could you use the jig stem for the headstock as a centre for a cutting device - say nice tight centre for the drum to slide on - just idea's from already being at stage 1 i'd also think along the same lines to use the jig to support drilling through for swing arm bushes - i.e. a lot easier to weld up +/- then finish off drill accurately versus trying to tack up accurately

thats a well tidy option on the jig there - you've got adjustability, rigidity and minimal focus on the only two points that count - i.e. stem to swing arm pivot- where to get / what is the alloy fluted plates ??? they look ideal for the task

thanks - really need to stop taking on other stuff and get back to this one - not forgotten, I just want to clear my feet so when I do get going again I can give it 100%

i've significantly modified a Harris magnum 3 frame - its still work in progress but its taught me how to TIG bronze weld / bend and work with chromoly tube - whats needed for a jig etc.. i'm a few posts down from you in this section

me recons this is competing with blubbers 1700cc for top project on the go at the moment - opposite ends of the scales - a sorted turbo 400 with +/- 100hp - thats as near as sticking a no. plate onto a 70's 350 racing two stroke for just dam't good fun on the road - when you cock up the gearing it will be bog awful, when you get it just right - its going to be loads of fun - i'm just enjoying the engineering going on for both these bikes

for any budding fabricators - for another engine with a dry sump - what you recon the original design initiated from using the spine as an oil tank ? - or was it - have spine why not - chicken or egg

thanks for the pic - it is indeed an Egli clone / very close to one - lovely in its simplicity

appreciate if you could post up a pic of the frame without the tank on - its a very tidy frame layout - looking like a take on an Egli - I may wish to plagiarize

that is well neat - recon thats the bodge of the month - bet yi the originator was brought up on a diet of seriously old stuff - in days of old when a manual ignition retard was std service

as a stop gap - and a good practise for any higher comp engine - use a different starting technique - you may have to tweak the wiring to achieve it - dunno ref: GS kill switch on i.e. no igntion spin motor without spark - as it's spinning flick the kill switch off to give you sparks also take the opportunity to clean the main power feed - battery to solenoid to motor and the main motor earth = get as much juice to the motor versus resistance

bowler I have these 38mm Marzocchi - they are aprox 760mm from spindle c/L - if they are of interest to you

the local bike shop now run by couple of young lads from Poland - proper oldschool bike nuts - anyway they are building contacts with guys in Poland - one of which is an upholster - they have done aprox half dozen one off seats with him - i'll post up a few pics next time im in past - wouldn't be typing this if I didn't think the workmanship was good - it is!!!! very good - they are still finding their feet with respect to prices etc.. but what has been suggested I consider very good value ( and I am a tight arsed Scot.) if your interested ( and i'm sure they would be - get noticed on here etc.. - may work in your favour) - pm me and i'll link you up - nothing to do with me i.e. this is not a sales punt - genuinly wish to see these guys work their business - and as said - the quality is top notch

don't know what the actual acceptable tolerance is - aligning two bearings without any side load binding does need an accurate alignment - no issues though - cut n patch- you just run the stem up on the lathe - tack n tap - job done - principle remains - is this an option - yip but keep a canny eye on it for straightness

its a good point vizman - basically horses for courses - each and every build has its purpose and use - what can add value to one can be wasted effort on another - key point is to not apply the wrong approach to meet the purpose

agreed ref: load - its not the rotation - its getting the bearings to seat common to each other - if the c/l is off there will be a tendency to force a small twist - not an issue ref: stem but will be one ref: the feel of the steering

thanks for "been there done it" responses - I can see how making a stepped slug and a wee trim off the ID in the lathe to match the slug - nice and tight = will keep it straight one in the bank for future

what to actually do - as suggested - however the question itself ( generic aspect of joining two stem parts together )is an interesting one that I have also pondered but not done please - someone correct if i'm speaking bollocks - the way I see it with regards to structural strength = its no brainer - the lower bearing is doing the majority of work / load - the upper bearing is subjected to much less - as both bearings are typically tapered rollers, the bit of stem in the middle is not seeing much abuse ( the bending is going through the triple clamps and forks ) where the issue - in my mind with respect to welding two ends together is simply the accuracy of getting it straight - not "looks good straight" but bang on to a thou or less such that both bearings are running true to each other - not an easy thing to achieve with a welder - probably need to make up a nice snug fit tube to sleeve over and support both pieces - weld up via an access hole in the tube to the root - nice solid tacks - even then - remove the tube to finish off and there's still possibility for pulling

apologise for raising this thorny subject again - but I feel compelled to share my weekends frustration yet another project build where I couldn't logically get the wheels to line up using the parallels - and as i've made a lot of bits for this one - inc steering stem yokes / spindles etc.. - what the fook have I fooked up I did check the swing arm before - but obviously not accurately enough - over the length of the spindles - this time I noted that there was a 1.8mm difference between the ends of the pivot bolt to a flat table where as the wheel spindle was equal distance ok - so my simple logic is 0.9mm on the centre line - did a scale drawing +/- (trigonometry what the heck is that!) - so draw x 2 right angle lines from the two base lines where one is 0.9mm down from the other on the flat - hayho at 250mm = to the wheel rim ( not even inc. the tyre) and the centre line shifts by aprox 5mm - would be obviously more with a tyre on so basically a twist in the swing arm that measured 1.8mm over the length of the spindle can throw your rear wheel contact off by atleast 5mm - yip my 2nd project in a row where the swing arm has been found to be twisted making wheel alignment bollocks good to find the error - bollocks for all the time i've wasted - apologise boilerdude - its why you got to go the long way = assume nothing

tig braze is good because you use much less heat - easier on thin sheet - no pulling / distortion front sprocket cover area is a handy place to hide a battery - done by many - add in use of lithium battery to keep size down - actually you may find space by building your own lithium battery from cells = create your own shape

also works for turbo's - not done a bike but did have a bit of fun with 4 wheeled things - used to measure EGT along with AFR / knock etc.. - playing with std cams but altering timing and overlap + ignition + AFR = all these can significantly impact the EGT - both ways - ok EGT is not always directly linked to combustion temp - point is playing with timing and fuel ratio will impact the temp - and its relatively free to you except for time if your serious about this - going for a programmable FI system could provide you a nice answer at a flick of a switch map 1 for performance and map 2 for shopping ps get a heat gun from e-bay for a few bucks - very handy tool for finding a cylinder thats not working right without burning yir pinkies on the headers

option 2 answer - its a great question because the answer lies with the evolution in design of the high performance engine from the days of 2 valve heads to 4 valve - what effect this had on the angle of dangle of the valves - what effect this has on the combustion chamber shape and hence forth what effect this has on cam and ignition timing the answer lies in taking a very detailed look at a modern combustion chamber and note what's different ( the water cooled bit is not the answer ) - then paying someone to retro engineer the modern design into the old one - ouch $$$$$

if heat is your concern in a N/A air cooled motor you can do a lot about this ( whilst also using the heat produced as a measure of how good your tuner is) but this is not a parts build approach - this is the stuff of very knowledgeable engine tuners for folks with big enough wallets to pay for it you'll also be heading more towards rpm - HP versus mid range torque - for sure 1400cc is going to give you plenty torque regardless your needing to be looking at the things that affect the MEP versus compression only one of the key area's is to aim for a faster burn - enabling less ignition - thats the stuff of combustion chamber shape - more squish pad area and inducing tumble versus swirl - part piston crown to valve / port then - if you get your port shape right - not only do you get more useful flow - all that lovely cold air helps with the heat you can improve the ability to lose heat with lots of holes and dimples added to the head / barrels - improve the oiling to the piston skirt - improve the oil scavenging and supply to a cooler ( suzuki master stroke with the oiler gsxr's) change your valve seats / valves - a lot of heat is dissipated through the valve seat get rid of friction - sort of thing here is not yir typical cold bore, get some compression plates and hot oil bore the block true at running condition versus cold some examples but as said, this is top tuner guru stuff and it costs - I only wish to have the knowledge to do stuff like this otherwise I would be looking at the sump / oil pump and overall oil supply with an aim to going large - and i'd be studying the oiler gsxr for guidance - i.e. aim to retro engineer what suzuki did as evolution and give the head to someone with track record to work their magic