no class

Hello and welcome aboard

....so haul as much ass as your machine can muster as you are in the crouch....raise up your torso and yank on the bars as your body becomes a sail.......and keep the front wheel aloft through the traps .......sounds like fun to me.

what speed / gear do you start being timed at?

this is a pic I pulled from the net (slingy with busa arm) ......the "leverage" action of the lower mounted bones will have a harder time as suspension travel increases .........the black lines mimic where the "top" mounted bones would be .....leverage will be easier as suspension travel increases . both ways will work....unfortunately one will be less efficient ......so using the stock slingy shock and pivot link that was designed to be top mounted on the swingarm by Suzuki engineers ......and re-positioning the bones underneath the arm .....changes the geometry of how it was designed to work .

I don't think so ....but you can have it your way if you want .

Slingshot swingers have top mounted dogbones and srad or k series have lower mounted bones.....changing the angle on the dogbones without changing the pivot or shock will upset the geometry of how the suspenion functions smoothly..... I have found from past builds regarding lower mounted linkages that the ride is stiffer.....

I wonder if keeping the oil feed to the head could work if plumbed into the lower case where a turbo oil feed goes? Obviously a higher volume pump gear would be needed .

air or electric impact to loosen the bolt......otherwise they will sometimes slip .

Had a look and pulled the trigger....thanks for the link

What are your concerns with knurling ? This process is used in industry all the time . there is NO way you will have issues for your application...... if the stem clearances are within .030 .

Thank's guys ... appreciated !

....looking for the cylinder sleeve O.D measurement of a stock bandit 12.......I have a 1052 motor with machined cases and need to know if the cylinder block fits ......thanks

Do you have the seller's info ?

easy fix.....remove sprocket and bushing......pop the old seal out...clean the area good......put a new one in . make sure you put it in straight .....gentle taps until fully seated . big socket works great if you don't have a seal driver .

Ok then .... just checking .... carry on !

Seeing how you are going minimalist on this bike..... best to make a loom without all the bells and whistles.....you could keep the one you have and remove all the non-essentials.

that plug goes to the clocks / speedo /cluster / gauges/ or whatever they are called these days....and appears to be the harness from a gs1150 .....oh , welcome aboard !

......yes ....you are correct . The use of angled yoke stems is still used today in the Harley aftermarket ......but we won't go there .

.....that being said , are you sure you have the know how to "build" an engine ?

the 07' / 08' gsxr 600 tb's use 14mm grommets.....I just don't have the I.D dimension on hand .

The inserts are color matched and are machined with angled holes ....each color has a certain degree....some were negative ogher ones go positive

Those injectors don't appear to be "stepped" .... looks like the O rings can slide up the injector body . Perhaps you can make ally sleeves to fit over the injector bodies and have an O.D size the same as the O.D of those O rings......notch the portion of the sleeves so that they clear the connectors......the fuel rail will hold eveything in place .

Have you sorted the timing for cold starts yet ? No kick back issues ?

You will need to vent the lower case also..... valve cover vent alone is not enough for a boosted motor .You could mount a catch tank somewhere and all your vent hoses go there ..... that bottle should have a filter on top and a drain plug on the bottom ...... drain the soup every once in a while .

...... something without sawblade brake rotors ...,,