no class

They use a special heat tape for areas not to be painted . Why powder coat ??? Why not a 2 k epoxy ? Both will chip , scratch and fade over time.....and in the event of a color change , stripping pc is a real bitch .

...... repeat your procedure ??? You have no clue how it's done properly .... why would you even think about passing poor info onto others ?

.... clueless git..... put the tools away and step away from the Suzuki !

Swapping caliper hangers (unless identical offset ) will only upset the alignment of the caliper to disc fitment . Your efe arm may need some attention in the reinforcement portions at the pivot..... to make room for the 180 tire to clear . I did a few of these mods in the very early 90's so memory may be off a tad . The sprocket carrier from your stock efe will work on that 750 rim..... use the inner bush spacer from the efe as well . remove all the wheel spacers and fit the rear wheel onto the axle shaft.....hub/wheel only.....set alignment the same ( as you would for tightening the chain slack ). using a straight edge on both sides of the rear wheel .... measure from 2 points on the front wheel ( left side ... front and rear..... then right side front and rear ) move the rear wheel laterally on the axle until both measurements at the front are the same . Your rear wheel is now aligned with the front . Take a measurement from the rear wheel to swingarm and note that down ..... the rest ( spacers) is just simple measurement add and subtract . Make sure you use the proper caliper hanger offset for that wheel before you start making spacers . Measure inside face to face of your swingarm....measure the outside of the wheel bearing to bearing ... add in the hub thickness inner spacer to outter bearing measurement ..... get those dimensions .....subtract one from the other.... divide that in 2 ..... you now have your left and right dimensions to work out the spacer thicknesses . Using the proper caliper hanger and it's inner wheel spacer for your model year wheel...measure the thickness at the bush and inner spacer.,subtract that from your right side dimension.....you now have your right side spacer size . The rest is .. well..,.

Actually... I do operate cnc machinery..... been a machinist for 18 years now . The fun about modifying stuff is you need to learn..... the hard way if need be . Several people have given you good info ..... Swiss toni for example.... you have not provided much info on your actual set - up ...... gsxr wheel .... which year ????? The casting dates are on all wheels , which is yours ? Swingarm ...., which one ????? Stock efe ??? Gsxr ???? Pictures help too..... get your facts straight before you critisize the very people who are willing to help..... or...... by all means , shut your cake hole and move on .

I know what I am doing.... been doing it since 37 years now.... but before I new anything I jumped in and taught myself .... just demanding all the answers to your questions will get you no where.....you claim everyone around in your area have no clue or " know fuck all " ....and I assume you are included . It's quite simple realy ..... ( to be continued)

Hey bud.... your funky lingo does'nt jive ....wtf is a say what now ?

Try squidskins...

..... must have been a real beast then ..... all of those 90 horses unleashing thier fury ! Don't worry about the frame twisting under power , it's usually the back end of other vehicles or ditches that do that .

Could be combo of valve seats and worn piston rings..... either way that motor is tired.....70 odd psi won't even create a combustion event so all the fuel and spark you throw at it won't do sqwat .

Your compresion readings indicate a poor motor ....... anything under 90 psi is dead .

any chance we can see what you are working with ???

Just a bit of advice here..... I strongly recomend giving a good read ( not just flipping through looking at pictures).... Corky Bell " maximum boost" and Joe Haile " motorcycle tubocharging , supercharging and nitrous oxide "..... this should get you on the right track .

All depends on how you ride / temperatures where you ride / street or strip / or both ..... boost level ..,but we all know that "just wana run lowish boost " is a short lived scenario so build motor accordingly.turbos produce alot of heat .... and with heat ... comes all the not so fun stuff . Which motor ? Hmmmm.... both have thier good and bad points.... 200 hp goal is respectable but then the need for more will follow shortly ..... hp cost money !!! The cheap route will end up costing you in the long run . Some say the cast pistons will hold..... fuck that .... the ring lands will be toast the first sign of detonation..... mtc amongst some others ,make proper forged turbo pistons for both air/oil cooled motors...low comp and thicker crowns and ringlands...cheap alternative for oil boilers are forged slugs from gen 1 busas .... now that is just a small part of the equation..... fueling?? Spark control ??

thanks gents

So anything teapot 749cc is out ?

Quick Q on when they were made .... from 88' to ????

Your wheel hub is what is giving you issues..... the 1000 is 6" and is wider at the hub..... the 600 is a 5.5" and has a alimmer hub..... the sprocket carriers are the same .

Like this

It all comes down to personal choice..... pat yourself on the back and know your world is a better place .

I would try 2 rear sprokets in 1 ..... you can get alluminum sprocketblanks such from PBI sprockets..... 530 pitch..... basically keep the center section to bolt to the 08' carrier....mill off the gear section.....leaving some overlap on the center part..... then mill out the center section of the second sprocket to the O.D of the wheel hub.....locate / center both pieces ..... drill through holes .... tap/thread inner section..... bolt both gear parts together......you now have an offset sprocket to work either inwards or outwards....depending on application .

Close enough to cruise rpm..... check the needles for wear .... they tend to rub on the emulsion tubes during throttle changes at higher rpm's from intake suction ..... what may appear to be minimal wear can actually change fueling characteristics ......easy fix . Remove top cap and pull out the slde assembly..... check the needle .... replace if shape has been altered .

Compared to stock wheels of the era .... yes they were definately light..... as for today's standards probably slightly heavier than current gsxr wheels . Just a thought here , but have you tried contacting Roland Sands at PM ? He is a bike guy and would most likely take the time to help..... besides , his dad developed those chicanes and probably has the drawings for the cush drive somewhere in archives.... hell.... they might even make one for you if you are willing to pay .

Personal ?..... perhaps......but when you almost die because of something such as this .... I tend to spread the word ...... so if I am not HELPFUL....please forgive me .

alot of messing about to get your "bling wheels" road worthy.....and then you will have to deal with how easy it is to dent those fragile rim lips.....no potholes or railroad tracks on a race course ...... but plenty out in the real world.......choose your roads carefully !