Jaydee

I thought this was sarcasm as the internal valve would obviously have to be omitted to work. Still have to get a hang of this sarcasm lark.

As said same heads. Don't forget to take the carb manifolds off the damaged head and use on replacement head. Mk.1 and 2 carbs have slightly different spacing.

Liking the tyre valve idea.

Offsets are the same (35mm) Bottom yokes are different, M has single lockstop and wn has two.

I will if you pay the paypal charges.

(I.R.C.C.) Didn't @YoshiJohnny have some made for his slabby racer a while ago? He might have a lead for slingy ones.

Nope. Bolt is going in to left side of crank. You could knock motor in to gear (don't think I even bothered) and air gun it home.

Yes, clean all mating surfaces and apply a good quality threadlocking agent. As that bolt has one of the highest torque settings on the whole bike (I.I.R.C. 150nm?) I normally ram the fucker home with an air impact gun on it's highest setting till I get the required 'bastard tight' setting needed.

Good opportunity to upgrade to a bandit 1200 engine.

That looks 'interesting'

+1 for Black shadow. I reconditioned a set of Galfer discs with their bobbins. Solid job, good as new.

Jap imports had a similar set up to restrict the rev range in top gears. I removed the restriction from a mates Jap import bandit 750. The bike would splutter in higher gears and restrict the speed. The neutral switch had a pink and a blue/black wire. The pink gets grounded (I earthed this to the subframe) The blue/black wire has a resistance value that changes with each gear position. At the CDI, I put an inline 1.5 Kohm resistor on the blue/black wire so the CDI gets tricked in to thinking the resistance value (1.5 kohm) is for third gear when in 4th, 5th and 6th, which gives the full rev range in the top gears. Disclaimer: No unicorns were hurt in this modification process.

Nah, the charcoal is just gonna fall through it. The one in the background should work better.

I've had a windowed ignition cover on an oil cooled motor in the past. Through the lexan glass I could see a pulse of oil being sprayed in there so don't think oil would be a problem as the rotor would be moving fast enough to flick off any excess oil that may affect the signal.

The dogbone and knuckles on slingshots are different to slabbys which have a rear cusion lever and different swingarm and frame mount positions. A slabby shock bottom mount is an eye and a slingshot is a clevis (fork type mount). Slingshot 7's and 11's arms are interchangeable but it's not the same with slabbys (different shaped cushion levers if I remember rightly?).

No, not possible. The slingshot lines are part braided hose, part metal tube. The metal tube has a oil cooler take off that's positioned to match up with the 2 mounting bolts on the curved cooler. There's no much scope in movement. The solid parts of the cooler hoses are pre-bent to follow the frame so swapping lines wont work.

You can get a joint gasket for less than a tenner posted on that action site. 380945005482

Grab both. Cash is replaceable.

Blow or draw through Captain C?

I've used Athena head gaskets in the past, nothing wrong with their quality. Since the sump gasket is the paper type, I can't see Athena making a fuck up of a pattern part. I have a genuine Suzuki sump gasket that I use to copy and make my own from 0.8mm gasket paper. Made a good few over the years and never had any give me problems.

89 gsxr750 FRONT Spring preload Soft......................5 Standard..............4 Hard.....................3 With passenger....3 Rebound damping force Soft......................8 Standard..............5 Hard.....................2 With passenger....2 Compression damping force Soft......................9 Standard..............6 Hard....................3 With passenger...3

Slingshot 750 U.S.D. are also 214mm fork centers and 35mm offset.

Have a 93 gsxr 750 front end here so info is 100%. Fork centers = 214mm Offset = 35mm

Going to have to start profiling you Viz.

Its to do with imperial measurements, eighths of an inch. The first 5 is the pitch (5/8's of an inch) the second number (3) is the sprocket thickness/inside roller width (3/8's of an inch) And the last number can be either a 0 (nothing, i.e 530 width 3/8's+zero=3/8's) or it can be a 5 with is half of 1/8th of an inch) (5)30 width is 3/8's (5)25 width is 2/8 + 1/16 = 5/16's.