Jaydee

I downloaded this from the old site a few years ago. Some of the dimensions are missing but might be of use to someone.

According to the 1991 Yoshi parts catalog, it's an aluminium heat blanket glued to 8 gauge plastic with a black rubber trim.

This site sells anything and everything to do with heat shielding. https://www.agriemach.com/c74-aluminised-heat-barrier

If you can't dispense mixers from the bellmouths by pressing the top of the carbs, then I don't want to know about it.

GSXR 1100 M/N BST40SS carbs. Main jets > 125 Main air jet > 1.2mm Jet needle > 6ZD13-3 Needle jet > P-2 Pilot jet > 40 Pilot screw setting > Preset (2 turns back) Starter jet > 40 Float height > 14.7 +/-1mm

Nope. No idler wheel in B12 motors and none needed. Don't think it would work anyway since the camchains are hyvo type on bandits. You have to use the bandit cam wheels on the gsxr shafts to match the bandit timing chain. Then set up the rotor and set up the cam wheels in their correct position and count out the correct amount of links for the bandit 12 (bandits correct timing).

They're readily available on that auction site. But probably better having a look at the prices on Wurths site first. http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/thread-repair-and-reinforcement/thread-repair-system-time-sert

Don't know what engine it is but if there's enough metal around the thread, you can't beat a Time-sert. They come in all manner of thread sizes and lengths.

I've always heard that mk. 1 and 2 rubbers were non-compatible. Putting together a mk.1 b12 at the mo. It came with mk.2 carbs fitted. I had a set of mk.1 carbs to replace them. I know now I should have taken a pic of a set of Mk. 1 and 2 carbs inlet to inlet as there's roughly only 3mm of a difference between spacing. A bit of a warm up with a hairdryer to soften the manifolds and I don't think it matters if you use mk.1 rubbers on mk.2 carbs and vice-versa. The carbs will pop right on.

It's a natural camouflage so the 1127N can sneak through the long grass so it can pounce on blades as they fill their rads down at the watering hole.

Nice find. I just hope it doesn't end up a donor for the outlaw frame Bro.

I like it. (I'm assuming that the welds won't be smoothed out.) To really pull it off, the tiggin' will have to be top notch though. Bad welds will stick out like a sore thumb on a feature piece such as that. What way are you thinking of slinging pipe 1 and 4?

Usually for me, it's when the job completely done and bikes back with its owner I'll find them while looking for the next thing I've lost.

Thank you sir!

Good call YoshiJohnny. The o-rings were squashed to death. Forgot the flatter thickness would affect the mixture screws true position. Have a little baggie with a load of o-rings that size stored in a safe place. So safe even I can't remember where I put the little fuckers.

Cheers Banoffee. I have them already stripped, cleaned and back in one piece since last night. Handy enough to figure them out. No harm though in getting extra info.

Found a good pdf on VM29SS carbs while googling. Might be of use to someone. http://www.lunadesign.org/images/say what now!?/carbs/GSXR750 VM29 Flatslide Carb.pdf

Working on an 85 GSXR 750 set of flatsides. Ripping them apart at the mo so I can begin to clean them and recalibrate. Looking at the Haynes, it states that the mixture screws should be turned in and back out HALF A TURN. Doesn't seem much compared to turns out on CV type carbs. As Haynes is never wrong, I thought I'd double check on here just to make sure as I don't want to be pulling the carbs out again.

Carrillo sell the one set that does 1127, 1157 and 1074 so that would mean same, length and same sized big and small end on all 3 engines.

Stage 1 , you just need the cams. Stage 2 uses longer adjusters and comes with a host of hardware mentioned below. Gsxr 1100 86-90 and Bandit 1200 96-06 Stage 1 Specifications: ST-1 Stage 1 camshaft kit Max. lift - inlet 8.80mm / exhaust 8.30mm 1mm duration - inlet 235 degrees / exhaust 230 degrees Standard tappet clearance - inlet 0.10<0.15mm / exhaust 0.10<0.15mm Included Parts: Camshafts (Inlet & Exhaust) Stage 2 Specifications: Stage 2 camshaft kit Max. lift - inlet 10.00mm / exhaust 8.50mm 1mm duration - inlet 248 degrees / exhaust 245 degrees Standard tappet clearance - inlet 0.15<0.20mm / exhaust 0.15<0.20mm (Use OEM Valve Cotters) Included Parts: Camshafts (Inlet & Exhaust) Adjust Screw Valve Spring Titanium Valve Retainer Valve Spring Seat Valve Spring Seat Shim (T=0.5mm) Valve Spring Seat Shim (T=0.75mm)

Are oil cooled engine covers compatibility not mentioned in Frankensteins guide that's already in the vault?

For what engines, air, oil or water cooled?

We have a therapy session thread just for that. That's it, let it all out, don't hold back. You'll feel better after it. http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/666-bikes-you-wish-you-never-had-sold/

That's exactly what I needed to know.

Cheers mate. Was almost sure the early bandits had the resistor (from what I read on the old site years back). Just going see if I can get a complete lockset for mine at the right price to be on the safe side. No point in buying twice.