Crass Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 I need to replace the output shaft oil seal on my 750L Slingy, which would be an easy job if I could get the nut off the front sprocket. I've tried the bike in gear, rear brake on trick and with a wheel wrench with a socket it still isn't moving, there's too much spring in the chain to get things rock solid enough to crack it loose. I know it's not properly seized as I only replaced the sprocket about 6k ago and torqued the nut on properly, it came off no problem then. I tried a bit of heat from a heat gun but no change. An impact driver would no doubt shift it but I don't have one and I'm reluctant to fork out for something I don't really need. Any more 'conventional' tricks I could try? Possibly LOTS of heat? Quote
Danm54 Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Ride to your local friendly garage and get them to take it off with an impact gun. Pinch it up and ride home. 2 Quote
canamant Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 I put a piece of wood through the rear wheel and lodge the spoke against the wood against the swinging arm with a bit of cloth to protect it and then use a 24 inch breaker bar on the socket. 3 Quote
Crass Posted November 13, 2017 Author Posted November 13, 2017 1 minute ago, canamant said: I put a piece of wood through the rear wheel and lodge the spoke against the wood against the swinging arm with a bit of cloth to protect it and then use a 24 inch breaker bar on the socket. That sounds like a plan Riding to the bike shop not an option, SORNed for the winter and oil dropped ready for the seal removal. 1 Quote
Dezza Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 Buy one of those electric impact guns, 1/2 drive. They aren't that expensive and you will probably end up using it for all sorts. Mine was less than 40 quid and it says it does up to 450 nm. It makes short work of gearbox sprocket nuts, clutch nuts, ss swingarm wheel nuts and so on. Quote
SiBag Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 As @Dezza said, I got a cheepy Clarks one from Machine Mart a few years back, a bit bulky but does the job. Just make sure you invest in a decent set of sockets to go with it. Quote
Swiss Toni Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 Machine Mart are selling a Clarke one for £70 at the minute. I used it on the B12 clutch centre. Not locked off, no bits of wood in the wheel. Unbelievable! Well worth the money. 1 Quote
Simbec1863 Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said: Machine Mart are selling a Clarke one for £70 at the minute. I used it on the B12 clutch centre. Not locked off, no bits of wood in the wheel. Unbelievable! Well worth the money. Same here even got a few impact sockets with it and 2 batteries best money spent in a long time, got it off that website Quote
duncan Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 Ditto on the 1/2" electric impact. Cheap and does the job 99% of the time. The other 1% you need a 1" air impact and then when it starts moving it's almost always the wrong part that gives way in the end Don't get air impacts unless you have a proper air setup already. Impacts are great for anything that is stuck on a rotating base. 1 Quote
wraith Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 I've always done the piece of steel bar (same as the wood but stronger) and it works every time just make you use a good seized bar once used a 25mm tube and ended up bending it now use a 20mm solid steel bar, with a 24" breaker bar. Job done 1 Quote
Sheep Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 'Use a lever long enough and you can move the earth'..dunno who said that but it works on big nuts 2 Quote
suzook12 Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 Before I had impact guns, used to use the wood through the spokes method, but often you still need to "shock" the nut off... A tee bar and a lump hammer has always worked for me. Now have impact wrench so even easier Quote
wraith Posted November 15, 2017 Posted November 15, 2017 You could say, get a big stick, and if that dose not work get a bigger hammer, and if dose not work, get a fat mate. 1 Quote
Crass Posted November 18, 2017 Author Posted November 18, 2017 Well this fucker ain't moving! Tried the wood through wheel, took wheel off and pinned chain around axle and tried that. Nada. There's too much spring / stretch in the chain to crack the nut. Tried heat. Tried walloping the socket with the breaker bar on the nut under tension. Nowt. A new nut is only £14, cheaper than an impact gun I'm unlikely to use again. I'll dremel it carefully and split it off. Easy job made hard, doncha love it. Quote
Crass Posted November 18, 2017 Author Posted November 18, 2017 It's off! I have my reservations about an electric impact shifting that one. Cut through nut a bit at a time, tried the breaker bar again - nowt. Repeat several times. Finally gave in when about 2mm of uncut nut remained, and then because the nut split. Replacement nut a few quid from breakers, so cheap solution. Quote
Katana9 Posted November 19, 2017 Posted November 19, 2017 Hi, Came off this morning with a little help from the grinder. 1983 Katana, been sat in a garage for 12 years. Quote
Swiss Toni Posted November 20, 2017 Posted November 20, 2017 Using the picture of the nut above, you can also drill on the face of the nut, as close to the shaft as possible, and parallel to it. This usually takes a bit weight off the output shaft threads. Usefull if you no got Dremel. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.