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Crass

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Everything posted by Crass

  1. No, I don't think that's correct. The pipe feeds into the cross member and there are exit holes on the rear side of it. The airbox top butts up to the underside of the cross member, so the air does not reach the carb tops but rather flows along the top of the airbox and feeds to the intake at the rear. It gives a flow of direct, cool air to the airbox inlet which would otherwise have to rely on hot air which has been blown back off the engine. Even with the airbox removed you are still getting a flow of dense, cool air to the pod inlet area although things will not be working quite as they were designed to do with the airbox removed.
  2. Crass

    wrong speedo

    They do come up in the for sale section on here in decent nick. I'd be tempted to wait and see if you can pick another one up. If you know how much it's out by you can live with it in the meantime. Would be the cheaper option.
  3. Well one of the pipes directs cool air onto the cylinder head area, so on a bike with no water cooling and relying to a certain extent on air cooling I would regard that as advantageous. Otherwise it it trapped behind the large headstock casting receiving some air which has previously heated up by passing through the oil cooler. The second pipe delivers cool air to the airbox, which otherwise has to get its supply from the hot air blown off the engine. Again, I would expect that to be beneficial.
  4. Crass

    wrong speedo

    Interesting. I don't see how you're going to get the speedo recalibrated. Apart from the difficulty in finding someone to do the work and the considerable expense involved, the speedos are not designed to be opened up and have no obvious means of external adjustment. If the speedo is faulty replacement would ne a far simpler option. If the drive is faulty, ditto. I suspect the speedo is faulty as from your photo the needle does not appear to be resting on the stop with the bike stationary.
  5. Crass

    wrong speedo

    Might be worth just checking you have the right front end in, particularly the wheel diameter. Or alternatively that you have a stock front tyre in, which should be a 120/70 ZR17. If the tyre height is different the speedo will not read true. For example, if you've got a 120/60 in there the speedo will read too high because the tyre is not so tall, hence it has to spin round quicker at a given speed like a smalle wheel does. Or put another way, when it's spinning round at an indicated speed the true speed is lower because the speedo is designed for a 70 profile tyre.
  6. No it isn't. Very far from being anything like the place it was but still popular by those whose taste buds have been removed. Seriously guys, those who are going do take it steady. N Yorks plod target the roads for miles around with speed vans, marked and unmarked cars and bikes. Used to go but now I just avoid, too much hassle, like most of N Yorks.
  7. As usual with electrics it could be any one of several things which have a bearing on the particular fault. There isn't much point anyone randomly suggesting stuff, the only way to sort it is to work through a process of elimination of all the ignition circuit components.
  8. Usually indicates a high resistance in the circuit as this is exactly what happens if a bulb blows. Can also do it if the bulb fittings are corroded and have a high resistance. If the new relay doesn't sort it you might want to take the lenses off the indicators and have the bulbs out of the fittings for a looksee. If there is corrosion in there cleaning up with wet and dry and spraying with WD40 should get things going again.
  9. Crass

    Exhaust gaskets

    Do a search on Robinsons Foundry website. If they are still available new you will see them there and can order a set.
  10. One thing I have found invaluable when restoring a bike I haven't owned from new, so therefore don't know how complete it is, is to get hold of the microfiches. If you Google Alphasports they have the fiches for all Suzooks and you will find those essential.
  11. TBH I'd be inclined to grind the shite off that swinger and get a smooth finish, fill any holes with weld and finish smooth, then get it powdercoated. It's certainly salvageable and would turn out very nice with care in the prep.
  12. FWIW as regards quality, I had a worn set of stock 750L cams reground to OEM spec and rehardened by KENT Cams and I was very happy with the work. Several thousand miles of street use later and no problems.
  13. Hi. Even those that initially look standard on closer inspection aren't. Standard is for show ponies or for those who enjoy exploring the inside of hedges
  14. I'm going to update this now that I have chance to investigate this issue properly, in case it helps anyone else in future. The rattle is being caused by wear in the spherical bearing in the assembly, component #7 on the fiche. This clips through the retaining ring #5 and wear in the plastic between the two faces of the clip surface is allowing the ring to move ~1mm. Theoretically you could replace the bearing, they are still available and cheap enough, but my concern was with dismantling everything to do this and possibly breaking other age-fragile plastic clips. Also no guarantee that the new bearing will be snug if the clip surface has worn too. My solution was to poke a little silicone sealant between the bearing surface and the clip - once it sets to a rubberised finish it should secure everything elastically but allow future removal if ever necessary. Actually I used plumbing joint sealer but anything like this will do. Is it worth bothering? - up to you if you have a set of these lights but personally I don't like anything electrical rattling or vibrating non-elastically as it usually ends in fractures, failures and an expensive ball-ache, so an easy job so why risk the hassle?
  15. There's no problem Dezza, both sides of the road have very long laybyes. Loads of bikes and cars park up easily.
  16. Obviously Covid put paid to the planned bike nights this year so far but the 16 September one is now going ahead.
  17. Personally, irrespective of the instructions on the filter, I'm with Dezza. Tight as I can get it by hand then nip it up with a filter wrench no more than a quarter turn, probably less.
  18. Try different pads. I agree with the Captain, there's noyhing wrong with the stock system per se. Personally, I found OEM Suzuki pads shockingly shite. Ferodo pads totally transformed the bike.
  19. If I press the headlights on my Slingy at the side they move away from, I assume, the alignment screws and when released return with a small clonk. The point being that only slight pressure is needed to move them so I suspect that on the move, on bumps, the headlamps rattle in their mounts slightly. Is this normal or has something worn or degraded? Reason I ask is I ended up repairing a speedo needle due the foam mount having degraded and I wondered if there was any foam and or damping rubber in the headlight unit which ought to be restored before the rattling causes any damage. Unless 'they're all like that sir'.
  20. Now the fun starts - getting the old headers off without snapping off the bolts in the head (settles down with popcorn)...
  21. Reopening for takeaway and outside seating Friday to Sunday only initially, 8am to 2pm, from May 15 following Bozzer's announcement this evening.
  22. These dates are still going ahead so far. Note that if you use this cafe it is still open following yesterday's announcement doing takeaway only, which is fine as most people sat on the outside seating anyway. Open Friday to Sunday. Wherever you live try and support your bike cafes during this difficult time. Our way of life is under threat if we come out of this with everywhere closed down forever.
  23. With the Yorkshire God Mick Grant himself piloting.
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