canamant

I've just put the phone down to Creg Ny Baa. The reason he doesn't post here now is that he's lost all his cookies and therefore his passwords. Compounding this he's changed internet providers so can't get access to his old e:mil address to renew his password. Can anyone help him out ??

Update. Realised that the drain tube will need the tab in the right place to stop the excess spraying up into the engine. Also found te article I was looking for. Oil Sump Awaps - Again. Sept/Oct 2019. Looks like it will all be OK.

Thanks FBOB. I presume that the drain tube will have to be flush with the gasket face. As I don't have one I'll heat the original one and tap a flat into it.

Winged Hammers ! Being built just for the sake of it now unfortunately.

Before I ask I've tried the search function but can't find what I'm looking for. I'm fitting a Blandit sump to the 1216 Powerscreen motor for SuperslabbyRacer 1 so I can fit the 4:1 exhaust I bought for it year ago. Obviously the sump "fits" but is there anything that has to be done regarding the overpresure valve from the oil filter gallery which fits from the outside side of the sump (not he one inside the sump that screws in and dumps the cooler supply back to the sum when the engine is cold). The bandit sump has the relief line behind the plug at the forward left side of the sump while the Powerscreen one has the relief line/valve behind the plug from the right hand side of the sump. I remember that there was some discussion on here a few years back about the lubrication system pressure relief path and I don't want to screw this up. Also the powerscreen relief system has a spring and plunger in the gallery and the Bandit apear not to on the parts diagrams. Thanks in advance.

It's not too hard to make your own copper gasket which can be annealed and used several times.

Nearly 5 years for a reply. Is this some record ? :-O

Well it has been a long time on hold and those of you on here who know me personally will know the reason. It is also the reason why when SuperSlabby Racer is completed it will not be performing the function for which it was built i.e. I won't be racing again. However, as things hopefully slowly get back to some sort of normality I will be completing the build and it will have some non competitive outings. Good luck everyone. Stay safe.

Main jet should be 97.5 so 90s will be lean. Also if you have a different filter to standard in the airbox that might make it even leaner which would exacerbate the problem. The 2 black T pieces beteween carbs 1/2 and 3/4 appear to be vent lines. Mine are just open with no hoses on the race bike carbs (VM29SS with 33mm face plates). I've just put a piece of tube on each one on a spare set of good carbs, sealed each pair of carbs and sucked. No vacuum generated. I'd think that the vacuum would have to be taken from one of the carb balancing plugs on the engine side of one of the carbs - thats where it has been on all vac tapped bikes I've had in the past - but you can eliminate the vacuum by doing the flow check on prime. Just a thought - have you ridden it and had these sysmptoms or just revved it up ? What jets are in the carbs with the bored faceplates ? Can't think of much else unless the Ignitor is packing up. I hope someone else can help further.

90s are a bit small for VM29ss - I'll just check All prime does is push in the diapragm manually on a ramp - same effect as carb vacuum. Hou could just try disconnecting the fuel hose from the carbs and check the flow on prime.. I'm not sure what are vacuum pipes and what are vent pipes on the carbs when you have a vac tap set up as mine ar e factory fitted ON/OFF/RES taps.. I'll have a look at a set of carbs in a minute nd see if I can work it out. Just going out to the workshop for a root around.

Daft question. Have you changed anything like airbox or filters ? What do you mean by carbs stripped ? Just stripped and re-assembled with the same bits or were new jets,needles, float valves, O rings fitted ? I'm assuming that you hav ethe standard VM29ss fitted. Easiest is try an old set of known good plugs to eliminate the plug possibility. Slabby Racer 1 and Slabby racer 2 both run standard Suzuki ON/OFF non vacuum taps. Try disconnecting the vacuum line if you have a vacuum tap and plug the carb so one carb isn't running weak. It might just be gummed up if it's been standing for 4 years so an Italian tune up might help. What was it like before you parked it up ? Is the fuel fresh ? (don't laugh - I've seen that one before !) The stutter at 6k is not unusual with some exhaust /filter combinations. Sorry it's more questions than answers

Thanks for that feedback. I've unwound the studs to the correct position (or what they were on the old cases) and loctited them. The threaded depth of hole in the crankcase is deeper than the length of thread on the stud. I had considered screwing carefully measured bits of old stud in the hole to give the new stud something to bottom against when it gets to the correct position. Wondering whether that would cause problems.

Lachie 04. If you are fitting the APE studs be very careful. They say torque the studs to 12.5 - 15lbft into the cases. I did that and some of the studs didn't torque up, just wound down into the cases too far. The originals have a "ring" ring at the end of the thread which butts up to the countersink hole in the cases. The APE ones didn't have that so there was nothing to torque up against.

I've done a good few slabby 750s andalways did them intact Even done by myself in younger days. I do remember removing all the engine plates etc but never had to remove sump or head cover.

4000rpm isn't much to start clutch slip at. I'd check that the correct number of plates are there. Then make sure you have the right length springs. Check that the clutch basket isn't notched as this can stop the plates fully engaging. If it's a cable clutch make sure that there is a bit of end float on the push rod.try putting an extra steel plate in to pack the clutch out a bit. Sometimes clutches do slip a bit until they get hot and any deposits burn off. When I ran the 4 spring clutch in my 750 slabby it always slipped for a few laps in practice until it had cleaned itself up then it was fine for the rest of the meeting.

Thanks - confirmed what I was thinking.

When fitting new HD studs, what do you fit them to the crankcase with ? Loctite, Alumslip, or dry. 2 of the old studs snapped getting them out and have been properly removed by local engineering genius who was grateful that no-one else had "had a go". I know when to bow out :-).. Holes/threads have been cleaned with a plug and are ready to receive new APE stud kit.

That rpm is a mean piston speed of 4900 fpm which is well into race engine territory and associated component life.

I've done 2 861 engines from long stroke 750s. One did 2 Manx Grands Prix and both have been hammered racing. Keep an eye on the tach and don't bugger about with the big end studs when stripping and building the engines and they should be fine.

I used to run 180/55 180/60 and 190/60 Inters on 5.5 inch rims on a 750 slabby with only a slight bend in the torque arm. Always had 530 chain. Gearbox output shafts are different lengths between differnet engines/boxes. Mine all happened to be "long" shafts with long spacers for the gearbox sprocket. Not sure if you would have issues with a short collar ahaft.

Even if the B12 didn't get asthmatic (or if you give it a shot of Ventolin !) the 750 CDI will be OK. That is what revcounters are for !

Le Concorde :-)

Robinsons have got them on offer at cheap money. Same pump fits all oil cooled units I think. Some part numbers have been superceded so they are probably all intrechangeable. The don't come with the gear (which IS different for different engines). I got one a few months ago for my 1127 for about 125 quid.

Cregnybaa's standard framed 1100 slabbies have done 115 - 116mph laps on the TT Mountain Course on standard unbraced frames and swingarms with not a twitch or wobble.

Because the damper is slightly longer the spring /bottom collar just touches the rocker/frame on full extension - which makes getting the bottom or top bolt in a bit of a faff. However, when the bike is on its wheels the shock moves away from the frame on the suspension arc so it all frees up. Good enough for 107mph to Ramsey Hairpin on a 750 with a bloater onboard, and 99mph to the finish.