suzook12

I used the F clutch setup in my 1340 L motor with slingshot basket, never had any drag problems, even with a lock-up fitted. Before I installed it the drum was pretty notched though, so filed the notches out before assembling......

Rockers can be reground and hardened too

Another newbie error that causes head shake and bike wandering is gripping the bars too tight, a mate of mine used to do this, you could see his knuckles going white! You need very little pressure on the bars to control the bike.....

Depends what you want to achieve from the motor, 36's will give you better bottom end, 40's will give you more top end power. Your base settings sound pretty good place to start. I beleive you will need the m/n carb rubbers for the 40's to fit....

Yup, doesn't read very well, but my spare basket is from a "k" motor

Oddly recently sold a 750M with water damage.....

I've done a few of these. An alternative for the hub/pressure plate is the gsx1100f powerscreen. I have a spare basket, but reluctant to sell it at the moment as I have a good motor to put it in to as have a 7/11 build as a possibilty as soon as workshop situation is sorted...

gsx1400 does exactly that, nikasil bores. What other differences there are, I don't know, but no doubt someone will have access to a block to measure up

When did that happen? Fitted many slingy front ends straight in to B12s or is this a mk2 issue?

You could fit an anderson plug to the bike so you can start from a remote battery, once running disconnect and go, assuming you are running an alternator of course....

Before I had impact guns, used to use the wood through the spokes method, but often you still need to "shock" the nut off... A tee bar and a lump hammer has always worked for me. Now have impact wrench so even easier

Sounds like she might be a bit rich at idle

I've used racetech valve emulators in the past on a different bike (Triumph) and was impressed by them....Having used a multitude of gsxr forks in my street bikes, my 750 j chassis was at its best with the stock forks, I replaced them with oil boiler USD's and it lost something handling wise. The WP forks and later seemed much better. I lived out in the fens at the time and the back roads there are horrendous, so apart from the regular fork seal changes, when set up the early slingshot RWU's are the pick of the bunch for me for riding hard on proper shite roads.... However, if I was building again would go more modern...

the yolks swap out tho if you specifically wanted j/k rwu's

When you swap CDI out, does it run for short time then start doing it again or is it ok for rest of the day?