suzook12

I used the F clutch setup in my 1340 L motor with slingshot basket, never had any drag problems, even with a lock-up fitted. Before I installed it the drum was pretty notched though, so filed the notches out before assembling......

Rockers can be reground and hardened too

Another newbie error that causes head shake and bike wandering is gripping the bars too tight, a mate of mine used to do this, you could see his knuckles going white! You need very little pressure on the bars to control the bike.....

Depends what you want to achieve from the motor, 36's will give you better bottom end, 40's will give you more top end power. Your base settings sound pretty good place to start. I beleive you will need the m/n carb rubbers for the 40's to fit....

Yup, doesn't read very well, but my spare basket is from a "k" motor

Oddly recently sold a 750M with water damage.....

I've done a few of these. An alternative for the hub/pressure plate is the gsx1100f powerscreen. I have a spare basket, but reluctant to sell it at the moment as I have a good motor to put it in to as have a 7/11 build as a possibilty as soon as workshop situation is sorted...

gsx1400 does exactly that, nikasil bores. What other differences there are, I don't know, but no doubt someone will have access to a block to measure up

When did that happen? Fitted many slingy front ends straight in to B12s or is this a mk2 issue?

You could fit an anderson plug to the bike so you can start from a remote battery, once running disconnect and go, assuming you are running an alternator of course....

Before I had impact guns, used to use the wood through the spokes method, but often you still need to "shock" the nut off... A tee bar and a lump hammer has always worked for me. Now have impact wrench so even easier

Sounds like she might be a bit rich at idle

I've used racetech valve emulators in the past on a different bike (Triumph) and was impressed by them....Having used a multitude of gsxr forks in my street bikes, my 750 j chassis was at its best with the stock forks, I replaced them with oil boiler USD's and it lost something handling wise. The WP forks and later seemed much better. I lived out in the fens at the time and the back roads there are horrendous, so apart from the regular fork seal changes, when set up the early slingshot RWU's are the pick of the bunch for me for riding hard on proper shite roads.... However, if I was building again would go more modern...

the yolks swap out tho if you specifically wanted j/k rwu's

When you swap CDI out, does it run for short time then start doing it again or is it ok for rest of the day?

Guess it all depends on preferences. I used the 750j/k remote res master, plenty of feel and enough power to stand her on her nose with 2 fingers on the lever.....

Agreed, Try breaking in to the black/white from the headlamp plug and taking it straight to battery negative. If that works, you can either run a permanent wire as all the earths at front end are inter connected iirc. You will need a wire of 2.5mm2 or larger.... The Hi beam warning light shares the same supply as the headlight but has its own earth path, so you are getting power to the switches. I also think running 10A + through a handlebar switch is a poor idea, I would add a pair of relays anyway to preserve the life of the switchgear, I have seen switchgear wiring have a melt down before.....

I would be taking a good look at the rockers as well....

I would do both sides, twice the oil up in same amount of time as per Suzuki.... I would make the fittings to have the same bore as the jets originally at the base joint as these help maintain oil pressure at the bottom, and use as small a bore hose as you can to eliminate the reservoir effect

That looks like an exhaust bolt, possibly dropped in from the top at some point?

The link you have to the top of the rocker box could well be your issue. That line is cooling oil, which could well have very little restriction to flow, which would cause your cam /rocker lube oil to go for cooling instead... Do you still have the "y" pipes connected at back of cylinder, that is the circuit you have tapped in to. For cams, I have only ever tapped from main gallery, which is where your cams would have been fed from originally.

You need 12V+ along the orange/white, this feeds the coils and the CDI and runs from the kill switch. The kill switch is fed by the orange/black as is the starter button. From the fuse box, you are looking at the orange/yellow which feeds the sidestand relay then turns to orange/black at the relay. If the side stand relay is faulty, connect the orange/black and orange yellow together. The ignition fuse is fed by the orange from ignition switch.... You should be seeing near as dammit battery voltage all along those wires. If you search Carl Salter manuals, you will find a slabby 11 service manual in pdf format. The wiring is much the same. For models that don't have the sidestand relay, the ignition feed is the orange/black from the fuse box....

What's that all about anyway??

Fair enough, I weren't sure so didn't want to say yay or nay. I knew the plug for 1=4 pulse coil was the same, I have a feeling the harness plugs may be the same as well, allbeit, the slabber has connection tails whereas the slingy plugs straight in to unit. Just been such a while I can't remember for definite...