duncan

And F top fairing has only a single bolt to the fairing stay at the bottom. G-H have two. All parts? I've never really noticed (structural) differences on the tail bits

Interesting repair, I've always had the same leak and assumed floats as well, but couldn't be arsed to fix since they've been replaced fairly recent. Shut off fuel half a mile before arriving is my solution, forgetting it as often as not, and living with the ugly fuel deposits on the fairing and engine. Call it part of the oldskool "charm" You mean you removed the lower of the two balls? Don't see another way to get to that spring?

Have always mixed an matched whatever reasonably unbroken panels I could get my hands on no issues as long as you keep in mind the differences of F model front panels.

Same experience here. been/am using Motobatt in a few bikes as well, if they work they are very good, but somehow every now and then you get one that just dies. I'm not sure whether to recommend them, really, no matter how good the good ones are, a bad one might leave you stranded.

Yep, 12+ V might be showing but as soon as you put load on it (even the tail light was enough in my case) it comes crashing down to near 0. Made it a point in these cases to check the voltage while pressing the starter button (with ignition on of course). Anything under 10V is bad, as the coils wont work properly anymore. Also (long shot, and I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it in person): Check the polarity on the battery! I've had one reverse itself so that + and - got swapped. Didn't know that was possible and it took us way too long to find out. Apparently a combination heat and deep discharge can cause a battery to reverse it's polarity. If you only look at voltage and not check for the little minus sign on display, you might never see it.

I could very well do with a decent clutch master, mine is beyond rebuild

Ditto on the 1/2" electric impact. Cheap and does the job 99% of the time. The other 1% you need a 1" air impact and then when it starts moving it's almost always the wrong part that gives way in the end Don't get air impacts unless you have a proper air setup already. Impacts are great for anything that is stuck on a rotating base.

Hope so too! Will be back home next week then I can try and report. Main reason for getting a 14x1.5 is that the original measured to that size. The gap is indeed way bigger.

Can order them through business suppliers (using Eriks.co.uk here), but plenty available on Eblag too. A quick search for "14x1.5 viton" brings hundreds, and for acceptable prices (< 1 euro a piece when ordered per piece, way cheaper in bulk). I do not see why you would order from China and wait, you can have it tomorrow... but to each his own. I've ordered mine, 10 euro gets me delivered 5 of each, and half of that money is delivery/small order costs. Arrives tomorrow. Thanks for helping with measurements!

Ok, had to know so I took apart my fuel tap to measure. I'm getting 14x1.5mm (17mm outer) for the tap side, and 2.5mm thickness plus an unmeasurable length for the tank side because of the non-round shape. Calculating the length, inner diameter of the groove is 12mm diameter and 34mm for the straights, making 33.64mm inner diameter. Outer is 17.8mm diameter making 39.44mm outer diameter. But then, thats based on the groove size which is (17.8-12) / 2 = 2.9mm wide, and 2mm deep. Need to allow for expansion so 2.5mm should be a good thickness. A ring 34x2.5mm (39mm outer) should be a good fit. Both 14x1.5 and 34x2.5 are standard O-ring sizes, should be easy available and cheap (under 50 euro cents a piece when ordered individually).

I checked the standard O-ring list, and I cannot find 13.2x1.9 nor 35.2x2.4, regardless of material. Closest I can find: For the 17mm: 13x2 13.2x1.78 For the 40mm: 34.6x2.4 35x2.5 36x2.5 Available in NBR 70, 90 or Viton off the shelf. And that's using a pretty exhaustive catalog. Either I'm searching wrong, or you're measuring wrong, or something strange is going on. What did you end up ordering exactly, and why should it take a month? You're getting some custom made ones?

And as a general project update: hotwired a battery, flushed the carbs until clean fuel came out of the drains, and she fired right up. Left a nice patch of rust and oil on the wall directly behind the zorst but a few minutes later she idles nice, decent throttle response and no more smoke.

Dug out another clue: The bracket holding the horn, fixed by the lower two bolts of the coils, seems to be different between 85 and 86, and I have the 85 one stuck in place with some very original looking (read: very stuck) bolts. 27: 38500-27A02 Horn Assembly Model F 28: 38500-06B01 Horn Assembly Model G/H

Have the same repair coming up. Not much of a help, more a reminder to myself to keep an eye on this thread sorry

It's what makes it so difficult in my case: The bike is practically in bits from the breakers. I have a set of steps with and one without rubber on the pegs. No clip-ons because an aftermarket superbike handlebar was fitted, but a spare set of clipons (without the weights) came with it.

Thanks, that's helpful. It would make sense, as far as I can trace this bike spent a lot of it's life in (deep) south Germany. Not unthinkable it got there from Switzerland, it's practically around the corner.

Thanks! That second list, has the "D" suffix optional for all Slab models, and some others as well. I'm slowly getting more confident it might really be an '85. Need to find what that "D" means, then.

Take-away curry and a pirated movie then The bike passed through Germany somewhere during it's life, and has a German ID plate on the head stock. Matches the frame number, of course, and looks official.

It's the only way really, isn't it Twin seats, 3-bolt top fairing (and also only a single bolt below the headlights), exhaust shield with round perforations I have. But all these can be swapped between bikes easily. I'm really looking for the frame number to give me a surefire way to date it, but I cannot make sense of it because of the "GR75AD" instead of the common "GR75A-". Suzuki cycles states it should be the "Check digit: Allows the manufacturer or authorities to see if the VIN is genuine or not, 0-9 or X". But then a "D" does not fit...

Excellent idea, will check on that. I also know the swingarm on the '85 is supposed to be shorter than the later models, but without any reference it's hard to check. And it's easily swapped, so not a definite sign of age. Good to be back!

Hello all! Good to see this forum is still (again) alive, I've got good memories of the old dinosaur board. Crazy amounts of say what now!? knowledge! Bit of history, I've bought and ridden an '85 slab the last 10 years, love it to bits. Rebuild the engine at 80k, she is well over 100k now. Finally managed to get a complete set of not too damaged bodywork last year. Send it off to the painters because she deserved a proper new jacket to go with the near new engine, it was the last step to making it showroom state. Then the shed burned down while I was away everything gone. Attached a photo of her 100k birthday. But yeah, I have a 100% perfect blue/white slab bodywork and tank, it survived since it was still at the painters. No time to look back too long, dug out a reasonably unmolested slabside to rebuild last week. It's got me a bit confused though, I'm not sure if it's really an 85 model. The frame number is GR75AD105xxx, engine R705-108xxx. As far as I know "GR75AD" is '86 G model, but 105xxx range should still be a '85 F model. Can't tell anything based on the bike itself because other tell-tale signs are removed: Obviously no bodywork, but also no seat, front cowl bracket, switchgear, footpegs or exhaust. Any help would be appreciated. Regards, duncan PS. Is the good old marketplace still hidden somewhere? I'll be needing plenty of parts coming months. PPS. Just to make it overly obvious, the photo below is my old slab, not the new one.