DAZ

If it's just a connection that you think is the issue then remake it so it's up to par ,then if that's not your issue the you need someone with an oil pressure gauge to get a definitive reading of what's happening at various rpm ,it may just be a faulty switch, it maybe the pump, those engines tended to rely on flow rather than pressure but until you get a idea of what the pump is doing then it just speculation

Is that mostly ef/efe ?

Yeah but we all know you're saving the best till last

Ok ok I got it arse about tit .....

White smoke ?!? , I thought that was for a new pope or something seriously though I usually say black for oil, blue/grey fuel, white is water vapour , so has the weather been damp could it just be condensation drying out of the pipe?

Unless you are going beyond the 150ish build of the typical street 1216 / flowed head / decent cams build 36mm are fine or 38's if a bargain turns up ,whether it's cv or flat slides , what do you see is the end product ? Road bike ? Race bike ? If road bike you must think about going too big on carbs, cams and compression ,it's way to easy to go big on everything and loose the big hearted friendly nature of the oilcooled engine by turning it in to a race bike

Best advice there. btw 36 mm cv carbs as on gsxr1100 K & L and bandit 1200's are good up to around 150 rwhp , that's a decent 1216/cams/flowed head build

Not sure that anyone's quite as addicted as @clivegto but I found a picture of a young Clive servicing Mrs gto's car.....

I would say that they would need setting up to be perfect as every engine and pipe is different, but someone on here will have done it I'm sure and will be able to give you base line settings so you could order the relevant jets

You could have your current carbs rebuilt after being ultrasonically cleaned,but do some pricing up first , as ever the bill soon adds up when you are looking at 4 lots of everything and someone else's labour then price some flatslides. Some will say flatslides every time, for the noise ,the direct throttle response ,but personally I'm not that fast a rider and tbh cv carbs are nice at smoothing things out making it easy plus the flatties have a heavier throttle pull which I would find gets old pretty quickly if you clock some miles. No right or wrong answer just what do you think your use will be Sunday blast to the cafe or daily rider type scenarios Generally any of the oil cooled carbs will fit with the right rubbers I think the earliest gsxr750 had 29mm flat slides then they were all cv carbs from 32-40mm depending on year and application

Just googled some stats 2.3 million speeding offences 97% by cameras , breath tests at lowest since 2002.... It's all about tech for them, break out the chain lube ....

Yeah like I said North Yorkshire doesn't do fixed cameras, it'll be a van, my mate Andy always sprayed chain lube on his number plate ,leaving the plate illegible rode round for a couple of summers till an actual police car pulled him over and made him wipe it clean after he swore blind that he hadn't noticed it after his kids had cleaned the bike for him .... Build the turbo, never gonna regret that, but in your dotage you'll be thinking " I wish I had built it "

I know it's easy for me to say but wait to see about points and fine , hopefully plod will be lazy and sting you the minimum - 3 points and £100. Think if it's anything else it has to go to magistrate court and according to the news there's a backlog of around 350,000 cases , I hope so ,keep me fingers crossed for you.

Oh bloody hell , was this just you or were you out as a group ? North Yorkshire plod don't do fixed cameras at the moment but they do love a camera van... Sorry mate

Fit the shim head and cams and you basically have a gsxr1100m engine they are not particularly soggy in the middle of the rev range esp if you got 36mm carbs off the bandit rather than the 40s the gsxr had . @Oilyspannerhas tuned his and raves over its road manners

Is the dot head you have from a gsxr or a teapot? The teapot cams aren't as hot as the gsxr ones,are the cams in the shim head are good ? I wouldn't imagine that the dot head cams are significantly hotter. the impression I have is that the shim heads are better than the equivalent tappet heads though not necessarily the dot heads, as they don't have the benefit of the better short turn into the back of the valve however if someone has any flow data or dyno sheets to prove one way or another that would be great. I If you have a gsxr dot head ( not a teapot one ) then use it you'll have hot cams and higher compression If you have a gsxr1100 m head and cams in good condition then that's better than a bandit 12 head you will just lack some oomph from the compression increase

Sorry Captain thought it was Clive for a moment......

The main issue with dot heads and a 1216 kit is more to do with an acceptable compression ratio, most big bore kits raise the compression to 12 or 13 to1 with the std 1200 head so the smaller combustion chamber of the dot heads pushes it way to high for road use and I would also be wary of piston to valve clearance with the pop up dome on pistons and shallower chambers bringing the valves lower in relation to the cylinder block deck

Or 2 or 3 .....

To the best of my knowledge : f,g,h, l,m, not dot j,k dot gsxf = teapot 600/750 only earlier 750 shortstroke dot head dot head 750 has bigger valves than long stroke 750 - short stroke+bigger bore have more room for valves than long stroke small bore Not sure if exactly same size as 11/1200 but not far off 28.3 inlet/25 exhaust yes the head has a steeper port angle approx 15° which makes the important "short turn" bottom port wall turn into the chamber less acute and better flowing yes the 88/89 j/k gsxr head is the best of the stock heads - but only because they have the best cams chamber size is one of many things which determine compression, but you are looking at +1 to +1.5 increase in compression the dot head chamber is approx 4cc +/- smaller than the bandit 12 so look at 9.5 to 10.5/11:1 this is to the best of my knowledge and I stand to be corrected

Best using a magnet on a stick pick up tool to remove the shim if you got one to save your fingers ...

Well that looks a smart bit of kit. welcome to OSS

Glad you sorted it and thanks for letting us know

I know it's not exactly what you're on about with the anti-lag tech, but I remember that @IhmeJanneFIN runs a couple of reed valves in his plenum that shut off under boost but allows the motor to breathe at sub boost levels would this help in your scenario ? Please tell me if I've got it wrong as I'm here to learn !

Shit happens,