DAZ

I think I have seen a picture of the engine before after mentioning Allen Millyard's creations in a post but not all the ones you've posted ,on the Zeds and KH strokers he's created its relatively ( ! ! ) easy to alter the press fit cranks to extend the number of cylinders and rephase the firing order ,do you know how this one was down? Great pics thanks for sharing them Edit : found it on you tube " how to build Suzuki Gsx r 1700 six cylinder " user BusaSrad Eskedal

Indeed it does , it'll look classy with that dark grey , I've no doubt it'll be rolling before long

If it was a race bike my assumption would be that it had long enough duration cams to reduce the dynamic compression to an acceptable level

Dear Santa, I've been such a good boy this year (well apart from my visit to uncle Clives...) and those carbon wheel centres wouldn't slow Rudolf down at all ......

Cue the man from the cosmic centre of the universe ( @fatblokeonbandit) saying ...... Bugger me that's shiney.... but they are

Maths is maths!, change one part of the equation and it affects the rest!

Depends what you want to do with the bike I found the std 15/45 ok ,if i remember correctly 80mph was about 5k (I maybe wrong but that is in my mind ) but for hooning around and what have you 15/48 made it feel slightly livelier without revving like a 600 the 1100 powerscreen uses a 52 tooth rear ...

John Pertwee ? (aka Dr Who for our younger readers... Well it looks like him but I don't have my glasses with me )? Aboard a T500 Dresda.....

So you basically want to know if you can fit a set of je or wiseco aftermarket pistons to your bandit turbo to save a bit of cash? And can you get away with using higher compression pistons eg 13:1 in a busa would it be 10.5:1 in your bandit..... Many(most?) Use the busa pistons up to 220-260bhp @clivegtohas a couple that have been dynoed so can give you real world numbers I think there is more to consider than cost and compression, such as crown shape and squish, weight, balance etc, if I were you I'd ask someone who deals with turbo bikes like Mr Dunlop at fast by me.... He's been doing it long enough to know what works and what doesn't

It is looking more and more like you've got two EPIC builds on the go, some really nice bits you've got and I'm sure there will be many more exclusive parts revealed , thanks sharing

Had a delkavic on a 600 baboons arse teapot commuter/hack , fit well sounded ok ( well for a 600 )and for what they cost the quality was good, never gonna be racefit quality for that money but good enough for me ....

If you're building from a bare frame,the 88/89 j/I 750s had the least space and if you've to acquire an engine don't get hung up on a 1052 they're all at least 35 years old and there's loads more bandit 1200's about ....

I've not had a 1052 but I'm reliably informed that the 1052 is marginally shorter than the 1127/1157 and also the rear engine mount is a 10mm(same as the 750s) not a 12mm as on the larger motors but it's easy to drill the mounting hth

My thoughts would be apart from the higher rpm limits the main differences would be in the ignition advance curve ,and I'm making an assumption here ,that the GSXR would be more aggressive (as in it brings the total amount of advance in faster to suit the more aggressive cam profiles ) than the gsxf and bandit cdi units, but unless someone has taken time to map this out it is only an assumption . The smaller 600/750 may have slightly less advance at any given rpm as they rev higher ,again assuming that the total advance required is the same ,which is not a given ..... so lots of assumptions but no real facts

Where you've written "cut" what if you made that more flowing rather than a sharp angle ,to maybe follow the curve of the frame just above the rear mount ? ....

It looks good in that the top of the seat is inline with the top of the tank ,and a darker colour may well make it less bulbous at the rear as the "bend" is highlighted by the stripes at the moment,

So if your clip on the needle is currently in the middle groove (3),then go to groove 4 to richen the mixture, chances are it's lean as the new air filters and pipe will be free-er breathing than the standard parts, if there's not enough change with the needle then you may need a size larger main jet and then you drop the needle back down and start again ....,but do things incrementally and keep a note of settings and how it responds, incase you need to go back to a setting that works better

Basic improvements will increase power but that's only because what you start with is less than optimum or less capacity in the case of a big bore kit ,so if you take the basic 1100 g rated at approx 100 hp increase the compression to 12:1 you will see an increase in power ( because it was less than optimum, assuming the fuel used and ignition timing can cope ) add a 1216 kit and again you will see an increase because you have more capacity, fit 1100f cams and yes you're right you will see more power because the valves are lifted higher for longer but that will be at higher rpm ,not just because of the cams but because the timing of the opening and closing events of the cams push the power peak higher and so gsxr cams or ones from kent cams or web cams push the rpm higher as they get more radical in the search of ultimate power note I say power because as always it is torque that is measured, and converted mathematically to bhp

It's basic maths really , if you limit displacement then the only way (apart from forced induction or nitrous) is to increase the rpm , BHP = (torque x RPM)/5252 ,a dyno doesn't measure bhp it measures torque and without increasing torque which is limited by capacity and cylinder filling the only variable left is rpm ,hence why in the mid 2000s F1 cars were 3.5 litres turning 19000rpm to make 900+ bhp...

Hello and welcome, an excellent and informative first post sir ! Edit: Just looked at Kent cams suz7 profile 245° inlet & exhaust @ 1mm lift and 9.27mm valve lift so a small increase over the GSXR profiles as they become harder to find in good condition after 30+ years

A 750 top end would fit on your 600 but as @TonyGee points out realistically if your bike is in good condition and not needing an engine rebuild you would be better off selling it and buying a 1200

If you can't find any decent ones I still think you should look at the SUZ7 cams from Kent cams down in Folkestone

A mint job on that polishing !. A good quality wax will help keep it looking good, but as @TonyGee says it'll still need some loving

Ok Peter, let's see what we can do for you b6 is a bandit 600 b12 is a bandit 1200 (1157) Slabby is an early GSXR - 750s ran 85/86/87 and were long stroke engines, the 1100 (actually 1052) ran 86/87/88 called slabsides because the side panels are quite flat and like a slab of wood Slingy or slingshot is a late oilcooled GSXR - 750s ran 88/89 with a short stroke motor and the dot head 90/91 ran a long stroke motor with the 91 having a shim type valve adjustment, the 1100 ( now an 1127) ran 89/90/91 again changing valve adjustment in 91 called slingshots because if the stickers that said slingshot intake on them Teapots ,a gsxf 600 or 750, the early 750s used a shortstroke 750 with a dot head the styling changed in 98 to a more bulbous shape with a conical (some would say comical ) shaped rear light that earns it the nickname baboons arse at which point the 750 went back to a long stroke Gsx1100f is a 1127 powered toured/ engine donor also known as the power screen due to its electric raising screen Edit : forgot the gsx1100g a shaft drive unfaired oddity with a balance shaft in the engine so not much use as a donor bike but great as a commuter as it's a shaft drive

I agree with you about a full fairing covering up lots of good stuff , a 1/2 fairing could be good , I only asked as in the early 80s these special framed endurance racers, Harris,P&M,Saxon,Etc bikes seemed to be the catalyst for the factories producing the gsxrs and the all the race reps that followed, victory at Suzuka was the aim for all the big 4