DAZ

Thank you for the information,especially about the valve springs

Bang on, what I was on about in my 1st post,and @wraith said in his,it's a 35 year old classic bike tweak it, fettle it but accept it for what is so great about them. Others have developed theirs into fantastic carbon clad lightweight missiles but does Metralla want to go that route doesn't seem it to me

As for porting etc try Roger Upperton in Leeds been tuning bikes forever,semi retired now I believe roger@uppertonracing.com but until you ask etc

Kent cams are generally exchange,or they will charge you a surcharge for outright Ignition advancer if you are dyno tuning try with and without ,esp if you have head skimmed Porting will add power but for what you are after a general clean up of the ports and bowl area would be all , big ports can loose "crispness" in the midrange from what I've been told, to do with port velocity I've no personal experience of this others who have may tell you different Big valves big power at mid to top ,a set of oversize kibblewhite valve is about £800 from suzuki performance spares + machining + porting to suit and then stock carbs won't keep up.... Oh and add 2/3 teeth to the rear sprocket it'll feel livelier in top on the road unless your always 130+ !!!

Dot head has "semi down draught" intake ports and raise the angle of the carbs so you couldn't use your air box they were used on 750 short stroke motors that were in j/k slingshots

1, keep your 34mm carbs ,if 36mm will handle 150 bhp I reckon 34's will cope with 130.no issues matching up with the air box and on my bandits we drilled the air box for more flow 2,hindle exhaust is good 3, dyno jet kit is ok IF you won't dyno tune your bike as their jets are different to std sizes ie dyno jet 125 is not the same as mikuni 125 not sure about factory pro kits 4, get your cam sprockets slotted and degree the cams properly 5, be honest about how much power you really need and how you ride ,personally I've slowed down and with the amount of speed cameras,unmarked cars, Dudley Doo-rights with dash cams I might have a mad 5 minutes but a lot of the time I'm fairly steady , if your not then big power is out there if you've got the need and the pocket depth ..... I reckon 110-120 depending on the happiness of the dyno

Whatever your happy with, for carbs usually a 40 micron filter is good enough though finer is better as long as you have the required flow , injection filters can be 10 micron or less . Unless you know your tank is pristine inside a GOOD quality sevicable filter(not the £2.99 car boot crap) and ethanol resistant lines and fittings is an investment and strikes off potential carb issues . Just my opinion .

Cheers long way from South Yorkshire,but I'll keep him saved in case it comes to it

11

If you find a chromers that'll replace a used exhaust please let's know as most aren't interested in case anything is left internally that might pollute their tanks

That et light looks nice

Yes most taps have a screen but on a 40+ year old bike who knows what previous bodgery has gone on ,and they're generally quite a coarse mesh you only have to look at the slurry found in most float bowls to see that,so a finer online filter isn't necessarily a bad idea

Have you got the fuel filter the right way round some have a small arrow to indicate direction of flow an really easy mistake ..... Ask me how I know ....

Yes your right ,wouldn't mind I've had a couple of gs's a 550 and a thou, but it's the end of along day and brains given in

Just had an abstract thought is there a plate like this on previous engines ie gsx or gs and in a very un Japanese way someone said we always fit these....or maybe in some way it controls harmonics that affect the springs sort of like when you bolt big bar end weights on.....

Well it's not like the 750 j/k/l have any well known issues without it so we remain baffled

Maybe by the time slingshots arrived the factory decided it was unnecessary for production bikes,did it remain as part of a race kit? Or just unnecessary.....

Is this part listed on both long and short stroke 750's ? Or just peculiar to one ? Not that I've the foggiest but it may help if it's only on one,say to stop the bottom spring seat hammering into the head under racing conditions on a higher revving short stroke

Oooh matron....

Bloomin eck! So that's geared for elvington then 190 ish? ,mind you it'll help load the turbo a bit

Torch through the filler cap is your only way internally light surface rust can be dealt with easily it's heavy flaky rust you want to avoid ,externally look for bubbling paint,silicone/mastic/any bodgy type sealant esp under the tank if you spot any give it a good firm prodding see if it moves and knock money off or walk away because replacement tank would be rare

Might be double skinned so only cosmetic , I know my stock bandit headers were weight a tonne !

Top advice from @Gixer1460 I thought you had already bought it , good luck

Hello Tomas, nice bike generally the oilcooled bikes are very good,share lots of parts with other models yours will have parts that interchange with bandits and teapots(gsx-f) 600 and 750's and if you like to go faster 1200 engine will fit too maintain it well and it will look after you

Great job on bringing another old skool suzook back to life