DAZ

You never fail to impress @clivegto with your can-do get to it attitude to making stuff fit

Thank you, being a wagon driver usually when I see steel it's 40 foot long and smaller diameters seem quite flexible at that length !

@imago sorry if it's a stupid question, or if I'm answering my own question, but why start off with hex stock ? I can only imagine that it's easier to produce (and store) hex as it's less likely to bend/flex than round ? Nice that you've got the tools to do it even if it is a bit of an odious task

Looks great, that tank is a class creation ,do you have any ideas on how you'll build it ? Restomod utilizing the fairing and seat unit with more modern running gear , or a period correct style build ? Or nekid street fighter stylee ...

Never cease to be amazed at what turns up ..... I sometimes wonder what treasures lay hidden in suburban garages and sheds

Well the shaft frames are wide in the swing arm pivot area so relatively easy to swap your swing arm and wheel of choice in I guess , if you're after converting your existing engine to chain drive that maybe harder .... Unlike the team green bikes that require removal of the bevel box change the output shaft to the chain drive one and fit the chain drive sprocket back plate

Sad times @clivegto, the need to put your powerful engine in a frame that handled went away with the race reps of the late 80's and 90's the desire to do so is only held by a few die hards

Fair play to you for the comments regarding Martek , you've had dealings that have been good which is nice to hear maybe he's had issues in the past that has caused negative reviews and is over them , hope so as with the demise of spondon bespoke frame makers are a rare breed ....

Have a mate with a h2sx kwack that has a lean sensor built in to the dash .... Every flippin' time we stop I get a report as he checks his chicken strips ...... ffs

That's about 33 degrees more than I manage thruppenny bitting round corners these days .....but when I was younger I was much faster , obviously... Just quickly looked up a 2020 yam r1 and it claims 56° so I reckon you'll be able to get your money's worth from every mm of tread width

To be honest if you're not after top end hp I'd stick with the stock bandit 1200 head and cams as well as the carbs Etc use the twin oval filters with a dyno jet stage 3 jet kit and it'll run pretty good as that's what it's developed for, try with and without The advancer to see if you notice the difference ...... Just my opinion and just like belly buttons everyone has one Edit: forgot to say if you swap to the dot head/cams remember that the bandit uses a hyvo cam chain so you'll need to swap cam wheels and if you check out @Dezza sticky on the subject of intake rubbers the dot head has inclined intakes that can in some instances cause carb/tank interference or issues with fuel taps hth

Try Miller's oil in brighouse (love buying British when I can) , a good friend uses them for his classic cars , they have a huge range of stuff including motorcycle ,and motorsport , and have a technical helpline 01484 475060 so maybe worth a call

Have heard all sorts of tales of keeping a little in reserve , adjustment to throttle stops ,rev limiter Etc to slow a vehicle then set to "kill" in the actual race and then at the last moment shut off or brake once your ahead of the competition to try and avoid breaking out ....

Is that like a joe90 clutch for big boys ? I assume it's adjustable for biting point (rpm) maybe by weights or distance between different internal parts ?

As @Dezza says clean it really well to see where the leak(s) is then tell us and we can advise you better ,a cam cover leak is a lot easier than a base gasket leak but just saying that Itleaks isn't much of a clue sometimes and a picture really helps too

Well no one else has answered so I'll throw my hat in the ring, firstly hello , your gs 850 is aircooled and shaft drive (at least UK versions are) it is possible to fit other engines and convert to chain drive but it's not a bolt in job and unless you have fabrication skills and experience I suggest you stick with the original engine and work through the leaks one at a time , they may just need a cover removing ,the gasket faces cleaning and a new gasket and retorquing correctly As for the battery issue, first port of call ,charge the battery up, reinstall it,start the bike and check the voltage at the battery when revving the bike a bit (2.5-3 thousand rpm) ideally it should be 14.5 ish volts if it's higher or lower next port of call is the regulator/rectifier ( Google it on how to check it properly) Good luck

I moved 2 years since still doing stuff ..... B12 in z650 sounds good ,believe the rear engine mounts are something close .....no I'm not encouraging you

@wraithdid you get a chance to sort your clearance issue yet , though it's been a bit Baltic for the past few days so couldn't blame you for not being in a rush

Jb weld ? Or do you mean an epoxy type two part thing ?

The swing arm pivots on the same axis as the output shaft on pivots either side of the engine , which stops the compression and release of the rear suspension as power is applied and let off it's a great theoretical exercise to optimise handling, and in competition where times to a 100th of a second matter it could be the difference between winning and losing and as @clivegto points out means you don't need to run a slack chain to allow for the normal movement of a swing arm relative to the output shaft

Glad you're able to document these jobs, when it's done and all shiney and pretty parked up at a show/pub/burger van meet folk will walk up look at it and never realise the hours of thought and work doing a hundred invisible jobs like these that it takes to create something special.

@wraith , I'm not 100% but I'm thinking the 36mm carbs of the 88/89 750 slingshot with the dot head had lower carb tops to help with frame clearance and the dot head intake angle along with shorter intake boots....I'm thinking I saw this in dezza's carb rubber sticky ,have a look no promises I've got it right its early and not enough sleep Edit : it maybe MK1 750 teapot's....

Italian tune up ...... Always worth a go , fun too

T The image that @TonyGee provides is what I would likely do , I think triangulating (wether by tubes or gussets) the area as much as is feasable /reasonable to transfer the loads into other tubes is the best/safest way, I read that a inch of weld can hold a tonne of that is true then the 25mm bar stock the shock mounts are turned from have 3 inches of weld so much stronger than a straight frame tube and as @imago points out without triangulation/gussets it's going to try to twist the tube Edit: most any article I've ever seen on chassis/frame design,has used triangulation to spread loads through the chassis and create strength

Martini, its too nice a bike to look like a scrap yard special....