DAZ

Possibly try warpspeed racing over in sunny norfolk

Now that would be proper beefy, be some work on the chain run I would have thought though a few have done the 6" before off set sprockets and machined cush drive etc

Fair play Dave ,hadn't really looked into it too deeply looked like a similar design to the bandit around the swing arm pivot and thought Mr Suzuki San doesn't like change for changes sake so didn't think there would be any difference,as that would muck up the chain tension as the arm moves up and down . I never considered the front wheel spindle ! Good spot fella

Just had a quick Google,as you do and your right they are a longer wheelbase,57.8 vs 56.5 for a bandit, so not a huge difference,maybe visually the longer tailpiece makes the bandit arm seem shorter?

Probably, though in the UK they're quite rare I'm going to make the assumption that as they're from a bandit-esque (why did spell checker want to make that grotesque) frame that it's the same size pivot and just needs top hats

+1 on bolt on drag slots being a bad choice , still not as bad as the neon lights though...

I can't help with the weight of the wossner pistons,but I do vaguely recall that someone ( not sure if it was on here or not ) had some thin walled tool steel gudgeon pins turned to help reduce the weight of the pistons they were fitting to nearer that of a std piston, sorry to be so vague but it was something I read that may or may not help and I have slept since reading about this idea and may not have it 100% correct,

Made me wince just reading that

@jonny1bumpDon't know if it's any use to you but there is a vendor on the bay that does bound paper reprints of oe service manual for around 15-20 quid user name handy-manuals

I'm sure when you lifted the lid on those cams your heart sank,but the oss nation want you to win and get your bike on the road the winter solstice is passed summer is on its way!!

I don't think there is much difference apart from age and I seem to recall that the very last ones 2005/6ish went big bore at 650! main thing is if you are buying from a breaker you want a 30 day warranty on it if you can so you can fit it and get it running ,be cheeky ask to look at cams if possible,the odd scruffy cover is ok as you will have yours to put on and generally the donor will becoming from an accident damaged bike which is ok usually as you know it was running at the time hope this helps

The carbs should be ok ,as I said earlier you may need to swap the intake boots(rubbers) as the carbs maybe at a different angle or spacing but the boots will transfer and line them up ,you will need new o rings at the head side but you can get them off the bay

As I say there may be some differences in the little details between the two complete engines, but when you get them side by side you will see what will need swapping ,be brave have a go ,you will gain experience and knowledge and confidence and when it's done satisfaction

I honestly cannot see why it wouldn't be a easy swap,use the gsx intake boots oil cooler pipes maybe have to swap sump and rocker cover breather over if any clearance issue using bandit ones,and tbh there will be loads of help on here to talk you through it

From my limited experience the issues with E10 is that it firstly attracts water vapour and causes condensation in tanks and hence corrosion that includes fuel pumps too ,secondly it seems to turn to a jelly type mush in float bowls if left any length of time and if left a longer-term it evaporates leaving nasty gummy deposits that block jets and passages in carbs,it also can affect fuel injectors as well,altering flow rates and spray patterns in vehicles that are used regularly there is generally no issues,it's the "hobby" vehicles that sit through the winter that get the problems in general it's crap

Well hopefully a rebuild will have the Harris feeling a bit more like you remember

I'm sure they can,with an adapter plate are you still using the anti dive as I seem to remember that was split off the brake line with a car type metal brake pipe

My own opinion would be to avoid the bandit 600 forks as they are well let's just say budget,and the stock brakes are not very good and if I remember rightly they're a different bolt pattern to the 4 pots off 1200's and srads etc not looked at 16 tyres for a long time,since I had a 900r actually,remember Metzler comp k ... but maybe worth sourcing a replacement fork leg , specially if you've sorted the handling to you liking, as always your bike your coin your choice

Cue pythonesque yorkshireman, string,string,we never had string when I were a lad....

Well I'll find out in March just thought I would try some as this e10 is ok for the summer where your out most every week but not sure about over wintering seems to be a few more carb issue threads lately ,not just here but on other forums I frequent too

Slight thread hijack anyone tried any of the fuel stabilizer type potions? I just bought some ,wait for it....Briggs and Stratton fuel fit on the recommendation of as Gardener mate supposed to stabilise fuel for Up to three years and prevent corrosion

Nice that you've still got the gpz900 running gear, maybe not state of the art now but in its day dominated production racing at the tt so it's capable of hoofing along, are you going to keep it or refresh it with something else

I prefer older stuff,maybe it's a sign of my age,but I like my bikes and music from the 80's. And 90's generally

Quality times,when dinosaurs ruled the streets

My experience is that on std bikes they are also sometimes used to limit top end power actually closing slightly to "save" the engine very prevalent on 1250 blandit,and on h2sx results in an easy 30+hp gain with a remap to keep them open