MeanBean49

Yeah should be fine, the LP system is seperate from the HP so wont have any bearing on the crank/cam system that you feed your turbo from

Yep, probably notice more in the wallet, bit cheaper to buy -6 lol

I suggest you do some research into pressure within a pipe vs csa. Same volume (flow) equals higher pressure in the pipe the bigger the bore of the pipe Thats why fuel injection systems use as small bore pipe as possible. Pressures in the pipes would be far too high otherwise

Its funny, I was following that FB thread too, and if you get into it, the person saying top end oiling kit fixed their issues, actually failed to mention that they had previously also trapped the oil o-ring washers on top of the studs, which is what actually caused the issue, they fitted the oiling kit the same time they sorted the orings, and believe the kit fixed the issue not the o-rings. My take on this, the oil "feed" kits actually tap into the low pressure system and supposedly feed into the high pressure system. Given that the low pressure is less than the high pressure, whats actually most likely to be happening is you bleeding off hp oil back into the lp system so in effect are reducing the oil supply in the HP system (crank as well as cams) in reality it probably has little effect given the pump should have enough capacity to cope. But the kits are nothing more than pointless bling. Suzuki designed the engine and are pretty switched on, Im pretty sure if a few banjos and some pipe made an improvement to the oil system they would come from the factory like that. Regarding the stud size causing a restriction, have a look at how big the hole is in the oil jet where the barrels meet the crank case, all the oil to the top end goes through those, and im sure if it gets through that ok, it will get up past the studs fine (just make sure the o-rings at the top leave a gap round the studs) I have a pretty good idea how it all works, but if im in doubt I just look at the setup suzuki went with on their race bikes, if anything worked better it would be on them. Regarding oil supply for your turbo, i found it easier to use carb jets tapped into the banjo on the take off, I start fairly big, so turbo smokes a bit and downsize in small increments until it stops, then take the return pipe of and run it check theres oil going through the turbo. Never had a problem, not all turbos are the same. Thats my input anyway

Looks to me like a 750 setup, slightly shorter hoses, you can get a meter of new hose for about £10, cut to size you need. Regarding bore size looks to me like its -6 stuff, most people seem to go for that for some reason. Personally ive always gone with -8 for mine to mirror stock. In reality probably makes very little difference, small bore hose will put a bit more load on the pump but pressure in the hoses is less. Big hoses means less load on pump but higher pressure in the hose.

Let me have it, ive got bits to make it a roller

I dont need one mate.

In order to run an external wastegate with turbo housing like this, you can either weld the flap valve shut and put the wastegate into the headers, or weld the flap open, make a seperator plate in the housing that seals against the exhaust flange and feeds into a seperate pipe with the wastegate in, like the pic you put up earlier. That all being said at boost levels up to about 18psi ive never had a problem using a standard internal wastegate on either td04 or VF range turbos, i just change the actuators for adjustable ones for easy boost adjustment. Big aftermarket turbos are a different kettle of fish

Your welcome mate, good to have a natter and catch up. Pics really dont the bike justice, its even nicer in the flesh

Read what ai told you properly, your cross connecting and messing with 2 seperate oil systems. One high pressure and one low pressure. Those two ports are open to "atmosphere" are like that for a reason, they supply lots of low pressure, high flow oil for cooling of the cylinder head. You niw dont have any. You also have 2 systems cross connected, with a high pressure system now bleeding off into a low pressure system, that lowers the pressure in the HP system, which includes the oil pressure supplied to the crank as welk as the cams. You have messed with two oil systems and compromised both when all you needed to do to compensate for the dry block is run an external line from the hp gallery plug at the bottom up to a cam plug either side of the head which keeps the system working exactly as Suzuki intended. Everything they designed is meant that way for a reason

See above where I gave the same advice before you did it too! Those ports are open for a reason, they are for a cylinder head cooling oil from the low pressure system. You now have no cooling oil supply to the head. And was refering to the crank oil pressrue now as a result of plumbing the high pressure system into the low pressure system. Like I said the best way the oil system works is how suzuki designed it. Sounds like you have an espensive motor your likely to overheat and trash if your doing anymore than drag racing with it.

I really dont understand what youve done here, that bit you have blanked off supplies the cooling oil for the cylinder head? Why you are plumbing into the low pressure system doesnt make sense either. Surely all you need to do is take an external feed from the crank plug and feed it into the cam plugs whic lh replicates how the system is designed to work. That to me us a recipie for overheated head and cams, and a crank with too little supply pressure

I think that one may be a cooler bypass

https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsf-bandit/gsf1200/gsf1200t-y-1996-2000-mk1-naked-and-faired.htm?vehicle_id=17#!gsf1200tyoilpan Item 18

Oil cooled motors as far as I knew all have 2 relief valves, one for the high pressure system and one for the low pressure, hp is in the sump pan and lp is on the pump. Parts fiche does show mk 2 without one on pump, gewssing suzuki must have decided because their is verly low pressure in the LP and its highly unlikely to get blocked to do away with a relief valve, probably cost saving

How far away from the head are you planning on having the turbo? Having the turbo sat where most of us do, your not going to loose any heat worth worrying about anyway, its like 50mm

I dont know much about others, just 22, 23 and 24 lol Yeah its a decent cheap thing to try, also easy to change spring on if you want to change base pressure. They also work really well with a cheap electronic boost solenoid so you can set boost to whatever you want, whilst your riding too

Yeah kingawa actuators are really good, and are rebuildable, just got a new diaphragm for mine as it split after 4 years. VF23 is what was on mine, great turbo. Cant really hybrid them in a way that will make them any better, just worse

What sort of hybrid is it? I ditched my standard actuator and replaced with a kingawa one, never had any problems at all with boost creep. You Could have a pin hole on the actuator diaphragm. Also swapping to aftermarket one allowed me to move it round so didnt foul on anything

I dont see why that would have any relevance to the operation of a bb turbo. You hang it in front of the engine and feed it the right amount of oil, whether the engine behind it is air or air/oil cooled makes no difference

Been working fine on mine for 6 years

That was about as much as its safe to take off K1 wheels Yeah had to trim 5mm off the rubbers too. The other 5mm difference needed I did running a Talon sprocket back to front, and a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket

5mm off wheel/carrier and spacer to make carrier sit 5mm closer to wheel centre

Like i said, it will pass an MOT because tester manual tells them to treat as 1971/75, but it isnt legal as per construction and use, and lighting regs.