MeanBean49

This is what I was getting at. All the people that have them on there bikes as well as the standard oil past the studs supply are actually reducing the oil pressure to the cams and crank, albeit not by much, you cant force 5psi into 80 psi, actually goes the other way and the 80psi gets lower as a result. Probably never be a problem because the oil system supplies more than is needed and will cope with the extra flow, but I wont risk it on my bikes. Im not arsed about looking good

Thats not suprising, but if it looks bling, thats the most important thing

Just that, those tope end ones fed off the rocker, are at best no benefit whatsoever, but more likely they actually reduce the oil supply/pressure to your crank and cams

Fed from the bottom oil feed?

Gsxr 750 36's also have a shalower plastic carb top, good carbs and easy to setup

Personally I would stick with your origional plan of getting the main jet size right before dicking about with the needles for the mid range stuff because as soon as you change the main jet needles will probably need changing again, its basically pissing in the wind. Difficulty on the road is being able to find a decent enough bit of road to hold the bike open full throttle from low revs all the way to the top of the rev range in a high gear, ideally 4th or above, and being able to watch your gauge while doing it, unless you can go-pro it maybe Also worth noting at steady throttle and idle your afr wants to be a lot leaner than when accelerating, ideally around 14.7 ish so your idle isnt far out as is.

All dependa, on bike, carbs the whole setup. But as a rough guide on 1100/1200 motors with carbs around 36mm I have found a change in jet size of 10 (130 to a, 140 for eg) equates to an AFR change of about 0.5 (12.5:1 would become richer to 12:1)

No reason it shouldnt work from low rpm in high gears, high gear, lower rpm's is pretty much the only time in real world riding you get to actually use all the power and torque properly. If you cant do that whats the point? Sure its just a simple fix, they are pretty good when working

Dont bother wasting your time with a jet kit, bit of dyno time, a, set of jets to suit and shim stock needles if needed

Ive not measured them but all the conventional type ducati remote res brembo ones are the same size. Ive never had a problem with them, even with a lockup clutch fitted

The ducati master should work, ive been using them for years.

Looks a lot better for sitting a bit higher too. Actualky be nice with both wheels white

This is why ignitechs are so good, really easy to put whatever curve you want in, and have it change the curve however you want, not just a set +/- amount over the programmed curve. Fully 3d mapping them is really simple

Yes mate

Your description above suggests you have, a, one function or the other, not the ability to use both at the same time.

Get an ignitech is the soloution, set your own ignition curve and then set up your own retard curve that increases with boost.

Not sure exactly of the weight but iirc the zx6/9r wheels from the later models (they have thinner spokes) are around 1.5-2kg lighter than the slingshot ones with disc and sprocket carrier. They are really cheap too. Not sure of what the sprocket offset is off hand. I will see if i can weigh and measure a, set when I get chance to get in my garage, ive got loads of em

I will be there anyway given its the Mrs show, shoukd have somthing displayable by then too, either gsxr 250 or gsxr slingy turbo thing

I would rather keep the yoshi headers than swapping to the gsxr ones, loose more in power than you will gain in the weight saving. Looks like youve done most of the affordable stuff. Biggest saving and handling improvement you can make is getting some lighter wheels. Can save quite a few kg's and its unsprung weight

I found mine runs best and makes most power on a stock gsxr ignition curve, no extra retard at all. My old kit without intercooler needed a couple of degrees off at the top as it didnt like it with the stock advance and higher inlet temp.

Bonus for anyone restoring/building them I guess

Mine works really well but its more by luck than judgement i think, dont think it would be too good without the intercooler, plenum cabt really ve much biggee because of space

If your going to have a go the best starting point is to measure each wheel from centre to inside face of rear sprocket, thats the important bit. Iirc slingshot wheels are 100mm, busa, srad, TL and early K-series are 110mm And i think slabbies are around 90-95mm

Bandit 12 wheel in the rear matches busa wheel in the front, dead cheap to get and no machining or dicking about

Whats the front got to do with it? Lol Pretty sure you can get bearings and tube to sort front wheel out easy enough. Thats way way easier then the amount of machining work need to get the rear to work, as well as the bearings/spacers/top hats needed too. To then end up with bugger all chain/tyre clearence and imho shite handling