MeanBean49

Rotate standard by 90 degrees?

Personally I wouldnt want to go smaller than standard, especially as the motor is going to be constantly working harder than stock, its going to be running hotter.

I put a k1 arm in my slingshot race bike, used standard slingy linkage and made some adjustable dog bones using rose joints. Had to grind a bit of the swingarm in the middle to get bit more clearnce for the shock. Used an ohlins and had it resprung to suit. Had no issues with it at all once I got it setup how I wanted it.

Had pretty much same thing with my race bike once, dropped off 2 cylinders at about 9k. Was the cdi. If its at exactly same rpm its likely to be cdi, if it varies a bit then could be coil or pickup breaking down

Could also be the movement of the pads in the calipers and the discs on there bobbins

Not strictly true, ive been running stock b12 rods in mine for years. Thousands of road miles, tons of trackdays and lots of landspeed events with no issues. Running at over tripple hp, and way way more torque. Keep things well setup and well serviced and stock rods are pretty good. Ive only had any issues when pushing on above 300bhp

Like I said for the sake of the 3bhp top end having the butterfly there costs me i can live with that

Just got to remember when there fully open they are all just a hole with a smaller hole for fuel.

Yup, and in all honesty unless your at top level and every minimal gain makes a difference, your money is better spent on good suspension and time on setup. I went back to bst's with my race bike because the 3bhp I gained at peak was not worth the constant fettling and maintenance to keep it running right. Good smooth consistant reliable performance from standard carbs makes much more sense to me.

Spose if you want smooth running refinement but not a modern bike, wants some standard CV's on it, thats why cv's were invented, because they make running much smoother and more refined than carbs that only have a slide.

So the aim of the project is?

They are smaller/narrower than a bandit

Incoming "nice bike" comments on rapid fire

I actually had a go on one of those the other day, was a full fat 400 one. Actually a right laugh and bit of a handful round town, bandit wouldnt keep up

Or just buy a gsx-s 1000.

Yes. Putting smaller mains in will lean it all out. You need to get tbe top end fueling right before you think about trying to sort anywhere else out.

Lower the number the richer it is. Its the ratio of air relative to 1 part fuel. 14 :1 14 parts air to one part fuel 11 :1 11 parts air to one part fuel

With no engine work, 133bhp is not a genuine rwbhp figure.

Yeah wants to be about 13.1 right through which should be centre of the red and green, within that band is close enough. Looking at how rich yours is going main jets are far too big as a start.

Sounds like dyno guy doesnt actually know what hes on about. Take it somewhere that does know and have them do the setup too would be my advice If its a stock motor, the 133bhp figure is most likely an uncorrected crank figure

I thought you werent supposed to actually ride it. Supposed to just take it to loads of shows in a van and tell eveyone about how good it is and how much you pretend to use it instead In all seriousness, awesome to see it being used, bet it would go well round a track too.

I found the opposite to most of that, facet pumps weighs no more than a mech scavenge pump (less than the one i looked at), seem more reliable due to less working parts and doesnt draw much current at all as well as working at a constant speed. Mines still going strong after 8 years. Can see how it would help on an EFI bike where current draw is bit more important. For me its extra expense and hassle, and most of the time people are asking about oil drain, catch tanks and smoky turbos, the people asking all seem to have mech pumps. Or that is ny observation. Guess its a personal preference thing. I consider them the same way I do Cam Feed kits

Id rather know the turbo has oil at the bearings and see a puff of smoke on startup than drain it all away and potentially have a dry spell. Personally I dont understand why anyone would use a pump whos volume changes with Rpm to scavenge an oil supply/drain that runs at an pretty much constant volume. Just doesnt make any logical sense

I can only imagine they either dont have oil pumps that move enough oil and are masking it with a catch tank, or they are just goimg on what they have been told by someone else. Oil pump should shift whatever is put to it, whether its hot, cold, airated etc.

Why do you need a catch tank? If your scavenge pump is ckearing as much oil at flows through the turbo (or technicalky more) there is no need for one. Waste of time and money