MeanBean49

Whether they have been split or not they will need balancing (sync'ing). If the jets are all clear, and the air ways to them in the carb inlets, I would guess either the mixture screws are set too lean (screwed in too far) or you have a huge air leak somewhere. Are you runnining it with no airbox/filters fitted?

Any shock that fits will work really, its more a case of getting whatever shock you use sprung correctly instead of hoping whatever spring is fitted will work

Sounds like blocked idle jets, or far too lean on the mixture screws. Be worth taking the carbs off and giving them a good clean out and setting the screws to factory spec.

Pretty much the same master cylinder as slingshot anyway, not an upgrade

Pretty much any radial master off a modern bike is a good upgrade, not much in it outright stopping power wise (is just still virtually same size a piston in a hole) but the feel is loads better. The nissin ones used on loads of Jap stuff can be bought cheap enough, fancy brembo stuff etc is no better unless your going into the propper aftermarket upgrade ones, but they dont come cheap

If you can get that down a bit should help with getting hub to clear swingarm too. Not sure what sprockets are avaialble for those wheels, talon sprockets for gsxr wheels are dished, you can flip them and also get a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. (possibly more with 520 sprocket). Adds up to about 5mm of the 10 mm you need to find, much easier to machine 5mm off wheel than 10mm

Make some top hat spacers, 28mm od, 25mm id to slide through the busa chain adjuster blocks and then into the swingarm adjuster slots, you can use 25mm spindle then. Another good idea is to stick a ruler from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket on the wheel your going to be using. Slingshot standard is 100mm ish iirc, if wheel your using is more you need to suss out how to address keeping the wheel central and the chain alignement correct. Busa/TL/srad/k series gsxr are 110mm. Takes a bit of machining etc to to get them fitted properly. I think aprillia wheels are more than 110mm.

They do when ridden hard, mine regularly does as well as about 5mpg Steady away and off boost they are almost as good as standard

Doesnt mean its not fine using as an on . Its the same hole in the tap just turned to bypass the vaccume part. Flows exactly the same rate (because its the same hole into the same pipe) as it does going through the vac part when engine is running. The whole point of a vac tap is to help stop carb overflow when a bike is stood up not running. Bandit taps actually flow slightly better on prime because the path is straighter and smoother.

What is it designed for then? Its a tap, a hole leading into a pipe. Works percectly fine for nearly every turbo bandit out there.

In answer to your question, you can still use the standard tap, but only on prime, and without the vac line. You dont have a vaccume anymore to suck the tap open, you get the opposite of it being blown shut. Worth remembering though you have no reserve function on prime, and you run out of fuel pretty quick with a turbo. I may have fallen foul of that a couple of times myself

Thats what he was asking

To operate his fuel tap.

Theres one thats not a chart, it gives a write up of each turbo, what housings etc they are made with, cfm figures and bhp

If you google IHI vf turbo specs one of the first results has a list of them all and a description of the whole range, handy quick guide, just worth remembering the power figures relate to a car engine that makes more power N/A than bandit/gsxr low comp motors. Equates to 50bhp ish less on bike in my experience.

22 is the biggest, spools bit slower but best for power, 400bhp on car, (350 on bike) 23 has same turbine but smaller compressor. Spools faster but less power 350bhp on car (280-300 on bike) 24 has 23 compressor and a smaller turbine 275bhp on car (maybe 250 on bike) Cant really hybrid them apart from a 24 small turbine with a 22 big compressor but that would be a bit crap, would spool slower because of the big compressor and make less outright boost because of the small turbine.

Thats my old bike. I may have a spare 23 kicking round come to think of it

Your is an odd combination of 24 with 23 hot side isnt it? 22 and 23 are exactly the same hot side.

Yes, the adaptor replaces the two bits that bolt the bandit clutch pack/springs together and the main nut. The lockup then bolts to that adaptor

May have my little GSXR 250 back together by then. Mrs could be working there too. Likely to be quite big and busy if it does go ahead

They are pretty simple, only a couple of wires really, i found with the mechanical ones i was forever having ti stop to adjust it to right level of boost , never seemed to stay constant, always seem to differ depending on the weather/temperature etc, and i didnt want long air pipes everywhere and the potential for leaks/splits so it could be mounted somewhere accesible to adjust on the move. Much easier just having a switch and dial on my dash. Spose it depends how much you want to mess with boost level

You thought about an electronic one? Ive been using one like this for years, its works really well and can be adjusted easily, even on the move. Turned off it works at standard boost pressure, turn it on and dial in as much boost as you like. Works instantly because it doesnt rely on pressure to operate. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/193269282046

Yeah oil boilers in both, blue and white one was a b12, bodywork is XR69, ace fun bike that was. Want to build another

Are they jobs or excuses not to finish?

Like Skegness, haha