MeanBean49

I agree, MOT tester has no acces to a V5 or anything that would tell them when the vehicle was first used, or what declared date of manufature is.

It all depends on if the Q plate v5 has a declared year of manufacture on it, if it does then legally it must comply to the standards applicable to that year, if it doesnt its treated as pre 71 regs. However for getting an MOT its treated 1975 emossions, and 1971 for everything else iirc. So it will go through an MOT but isnt legal Had it with my old Harris because it had a declared year i couldnt run black and silver plate and had to have indicators.

Used k1 wheeks in my slingy so spindle wasnt an issue, may have been a zx6/zx9 one i used in HUC, couldnt be 100% though, i have many many random things in my lockup that im not exactly sure where they come from. I just usually manage to find what i need.

Its quite a while since i build my race bike, cant remember what spring rate i ended up with, did have to change it a couple of times to get it right. Its also worth fitting everything with no shock spring fitted to shock. Lets you move it through the whole range of movement to make sure its all ok. I raced mine for 2 years after getting it setup how i wanted with no problems at all

Im not 100% sure but iirc the disc side is the same distance from inside face of swingarm to wheel centre, so you just need 20mm thicker spacer on sprocket side.

Also got @Allspeedson a slightly tweaked slingy too

Im hoping to get out more than my one track evening this year. Just need to pull my finger out snd build my sling

Personally I would re-instate the valve cover lines from the crank case, they are for cooling the head, not having them is a bad thing, head will overheat and wreck stuff. I would also remove the cam feed from the valve cover, without the low pressure supply going in all your doing is removing oretty much all of the high pressure supply to any of the motor. Suzuki got the oil system pretty spot on, best thing to do is leave it as intended

Feeding from the valve cover as well as the main gallery could be your problem. Your actually lowering the oil pressure to the entire high pressure oil system, (crank included) by connecting into to the low pressure system. There is virtually no pressure at the point you have tapped into. You high pressure feed from the main gallery wil bleed off into it rather than the low pressure flow into cams. Also woth checking the internal diameter of the main gallery feed pipe, if its smaller than the size of the jet that sits in the oil way between crank case and barrels it will be restricting flow, or if its bigger could alter things too. The ideal is to have a feed to either side with pipe the same cross sectional area as the standard oil ways and with a jet the same size as standard in the pipe in similar position to the one in the cases

Are you getting to the point the linkages are parallel with the linkage? That will stop it being able to move. You would need a longer shock to lower the linkage and extend the dog bones. I had an ohlins in mine and it was set really long to get it to work

Worth a go, i ordered a bag of 2.5mm washers so i could shim it lots easily.

Could be lean, ive just been helping a mate sort his out, was doing the same thing, we ended up with his needles on the bottom clip and with 4 washers as well as the plastic doughnut to get it running well. He had done the same, all new everything, could be from the same supplier, possibly an issue with the parts

Yeah exhaust where link pipe goes into the colletor

That washer wont make the difference between it running perfectly and an unrideable piece if crap, only makes a marginal difference, they are about half as thick as the gap between needle clips. Could be worth comparing your new emulsion tubes to the old ones, theres 2 versions of 36mm carb, gsxr and bandit and iirc the emulsion tubes will fit either carb but are different and will mess with fueling if they are the wrong ones. Wirth checking the link pipe too though for piece of mind

How does it ride? Quite common for bandits to pop and bang because of the join between downpipes and link pipe not sealing or cracking. If it rides ok I would look elsewhere from the carbs

Have you tried some new spark plugs in it? The 400's are terrible for plugs going off and affecting running, particularly idle and when warm. You will see a spark at the plug but they go weak really easy. After having similar issues with a bandit 4 years ago and wasting days going over everything else, its always the 1st thing I try when my 400's start running shit

178 is my best at Pendine, not had the weather since then to run a long enough course to get close.

I love Bobs Daytona, like following his escapades on the FB pages. I reckon Bobs record is achievable in the right conditions. I still want to be the 1st to do 200 at Pendine unfaired. Thats another where I think the conditions need to be perfect

Thats what I was getting at, took me over 200bhp to get over 175mph, and a bucket load of torque unfaired Also dont think 150 n/a will be enough, good to see someone having a go. Also expect to see the project evolve to turbo or nitrous in the future to get more power

We dont know if we dont try, all part of the fun. Be interesting to see how you get on. Look forward to seeing the turbo build next year

Slingshots, water cooled ones, srads, busa, TL and k series gsxr's all have pretty much the same stem length and can be fitted with nothing more than a funky sized top bearing that is available off the shelf.

Mine was good for over 200 with no fairing, Kearsley did over 200 too. Took nigh on 300bhp tho. And 200bhp ish to see over 175. 200ft lbs of torque at 6k helps quite a bit too. An N/A wont have anywhere near that

Measurements sound about right for slingy, seem to remember a figure of 100mm, never measured a water cooled wheel, srad, busa and k series are all 110mm and if cant remember if slabby was 90 or 95 possibly.

Its worth measuring the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket when doing anything like this, thats the measurement that matters. Thats how you know that the wheel is central and your chain run is right. I could be wrond but seem to remember slabbies (or some of them anyway) and slingshots are different, slingy is approx 100mm, and a slabby is less, using a slingy wheel in a slabby irrelevant of the arm is going to cause alignment issues. (May just be a case of using slingy front sprocket spacer on slabby motor) Anyway point is measure all the standard stuff and the new stuff and compare so you know what you need to achieve. Or like loads of people do, chuck a 6" busa wheel in thats way out and just tell everyone its fine whilst riding round in a constant circle.