MeanBean49

Yeah k1 gsxr 1000, also on gsx 1400 iirc, should be plenty good enough with that master, and looks like galfer discs. SBS performance pads are really good

The K1 6 pots are way better than the earlier 6 pots and work well. The K1 4 pots are just as good and do still need a bit less maint and are easier to bleed. Braided hoses and some good quality sticky compound pads will work really well. Swapping to a radial master from any newer bike is a good upgrade, not really any better stopping power, but gives better feel. Thing to remember is they are just Pistons in a hole, doesmt matter who makes them, they all do the same thing. Most of the "better performance" from a caliper upgrade is placebo effect, if you have just spent a shit load of money on some fancy brakes your going to convince yourself they are better irrelevant of if they are or not. You can bet your life that if say Brembo caliper piston size gave better performance, all the other manufacturers would make there pistons the same size too.

I wasnt thinking about it affecting AFR, was thinking more about boost pressure and the loss off it. I guess even though air can flow from one cylinder to another freely if they are all linked they will still be pressurised roughly the same irrelevant of what stroke each cylinder is on

Wouldnt that just allow boost/air to bleed off from the firing cylinder into to others? Ive only ever paired them up in pairs if that makes sense, 1+4 and 2+3 Probably doesnt make any real difference

Unfaired like MDM said. Give me a shout if you need owt, got fair few bitd kicking round

No, you would still need a control module like most quickshifters. Bonus of ignitech is its all in one box

Have you had a play with the delay time too mate? Going to put one on my slingy I think, good to have a setting to start with

Think people are getting confused with what a quickshifter and an air shifter do. You can have both. Air shifter is just replacing your foot doing the change. You still need a way of killing the ignition for it to work. They tend to have a primitive ignition kill switch wired in. A quick shifter does not affect gear selection, it controls the ignition system when a gear selection is made, to allow it to happen with no clutch and no throttle back off. Track riding I would only really want a,quickshifter Drag racing i would have an ir shifter with a quickshifter

Get an ignitech cdi and one of there quickshifters. Great bits of kit, especially for a trackbike

Yep Lean tends to make revs hang up, rich makes them drop and pickup

Contrary to the above ive swapped cam caps round on many occasions, the trick is taking all the valve gear out so the cam can sit in with no other forces on it. If youve got loads put them on one at a time, cam needs to turn with little resistance but with no free play. If they are a bit tight you can use really fine wet and dry to open them up a bit until they free up. Takes a while but you can get them right. If the origionals are there you should find the right ones by trial and error anyway.

All placebo if they have been used on conventional forks. Normal mounted brembos with a normal brembo master with the same discs and pads would perform just the same

You do realise because your mounting a radial caliper using conventional forks it completely negates the whole thing that makes radials better. You dont need to upgrade your master cylinder either, its still just a piston in a hole pushing pistons out of holes. A radial master will however give better feel over axial. And you tend to find newer calipers have a better selection of pads available. A radial master and some nissin 4 pots with good race pads and braided hoses will be every bit as good as radials mounted with those adaptors but at a fraction of the cost

Pretty much all jet kits are model speciffic and come with base settings. They also all advise setting up on a dyno to get them right. Also pretty unlikely anyone will do a jet kit for aftermarket flatslide carbs. Its all just guesswork without a dyno or some way to monitor afr, or at worst plug colour

Ahh, so it will be hours of the test ride and plug chop cycle then. Might be worth looking at a Gunson Colourtune kit

Best answer is get it on a dyno. Its not really worth the wasted time and effort trying to do it your self or even trying to get it somthing like prior to dyno, takes very little time in comparisson on a dyno to get a good setup even if starting from it running like a sack of shit. Reccomendations for other bikes are largely pointless and irrelevant, as is advice based on different sized carbs and what jets have been used in them. Not sure exactly what is being reffered to above with "good depression" carbs work on a pressure differential where the pressure in the float bowl is higher than through the carb body which causes fuel to be effectively blown/sucked (whichever way you want to look at it) into the airflow. The main jet is there to control the ratio of fuel added is correct at max demand, the needle helps modulate the fuel for lower throttle openings and constant throttle.

Measure it, if you find the id and od you can find out if they are available on simplybearings website

Doesnt work on a bike that has no dog bones

They are still only ballpark instructions. Following them still doesnt mean it will run right.

Idle shouldnt have changed unless you have messed with the mixture screw. I would just stick it on a Dyno. Even just paying for a power run with afr on the printout will show you exactly what its doing so you know which way you need to go

If your needles are adjustable they arent stock, b12 carbs have fixed needles as standard. And whether your thought proces is correct is hard to say without knowing how your riding. On WOT above about 4-6k rpm (depending on gear/load) needles and slides will have little effect on fueling as the slide will be fully open. Its purely down to main jet size. The slides have more of an effect on low rpm range, smaller throttle openings and keeping the fueling correct at constant throttle

It all depends on what bike the kit is for to what stuff is in the kit. Always found drillimg slides, adding jets, or sticking bits in the air correctors ultimately does do much other than mean more faffimg trying to get it to run as well as using standard needles and shimmimg/adjuating them to suit. Ive always managed to get the same results using stock stuff and a £10 set of correctly sized main jets. Sometimes some bigger pilots.

Its not just that though is it, its all the yest riding, being able to stop the instant youve done your high speed high rpm wot run and pulled your plug at side of the road. And in all honesty it will save virtually no time on the dyno whether its a mile out or pretty close. Good dyno operator will know pretty much what jets are needed based on whats fitted and what the afr shows. This is just my advice based on my experience, would rather pay for an extra hour on the dyno than needlesly waste hours and hours of my own time

Normally find with a b12 on pods that work (k+n or ramair) the kit supplied jets are too big. Ive always found 140/145 to be where you end up, maybe smaller. Needles its not really worth bothering with until main jet is right. Which if you arent going to use dyno takes some WOT in higher gears at high rpm, followed by immediately killing motor and stopping so you can check your plug colour. Give yourself about 97 days faffing and chopping and changing and you should get close enough to start thinking about mid range and needles

Only difference in "stages" is the size of the mains supplied in the kit iirc. Stage 3 kit is exactly the same as a stage 1 it just has some bigger jets in as well. The stage thing is just a tag to make boy racer types think they have somthing special to shout about. Its not really a thing. Particulalrly when most of the time you get a bike setup on a dyno you find you need a jet size not included in the kit but one in between, what "stage" have you got then? I just see the whole as setup and jetted to suit your spec/components, there are no stages