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MeanBean49

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Everything posted by MeanBean49

  1. Use the bandit carbs, pickup and ecu. Wont make that much difference.
  2. Motors are all the same spec iirc, its in ignition and carbs where restriction is
  3. If its only looks and handling isnt important run what you want. If handling is a concearn run the correct size tyres for the wheels. Like Dunc said earlier a 180/60 is basically a 190 made for 5.5 wheels. Imo a properly sized 180/120 looks way better than an ballooned out oversize tyre, its like looking at clown shoes
  4. For reference.https://youtu.be/6JKhVNaW1ps
  5. Very useable when setup well, no issues with mine setting records on sand, tons of trackdays and 10 of thousands of road miles.
  6. Didnt realise you were a Madagascar fan?
  7. Moto-Brian defiantely sounds better.
  8. It will be boost pressure + base pressure
  9. This was mine, now sold on but have the turbo kit and motor to put i to a slingshot chassis and a bigger turbo to try. Was making 300bhp and 200 ft lbs at 16psi
  10. Easiest way to see what sort of difference is to run it N/A. You know exactly what the motor is doing without any assistance
  11. Yeah, used it for years with standard head and then a coupke of years more when I swapped to big valve ported head. Generally getting the same power top end plus better mid range and at lower boost. A worked cylinder head will add power pretty much irrelevant of what the turbo is doing. Its a good way of getting more power when your turbo is at or close to its limit.
  12. I heard the same, I think the logic was why put a load of money into a head for 25bhp when an extra half a psi would do the same. To me I would rather make the extra power without putting extra load/stress on my motor
  13. I noticed a difference on mine too, added about 25bhp for the same boost levels throughout most of the rpm range. Its like anything, if the engine has to work less hard to do somthing, power will increase
  14. You can replace them and they are interchangeable accross all oil cooled motors as far as im aware. Not just an easy swap though. Because they are line bored you need to get the new ones to match, best to do with head off, and all the valves out. Dot them one at a time and you need to make sure the cam rotates nice and freely, if not you need to increase the clearence using very fine wet and dry wrapped round a rod just a bit smaller than cam diameter. Takes ages but can be done.
  15. Shouldnt really be a problem at 2 which is why I would also be inclined to check everything else as well
  16. As low as you can get really. May be worth checking your fpr is plumbed up correctly, you can get it the wrong way round so you can set base pressure but when running it will let pressure go far too high amd flood carbs
  17. Either is fine, A4 is marine grade so is even more corrosion resistant. Depends how your going to use your bike, if its a winter hack and will be out in all weathers and covered in winter salt A4 might be worth the extra cost. If not go with A2
  18. Ditto Ive used stainless for pretty much most things except main engine bolts, swingarm and wheel spindes and shock and linkage bolts.
  19. Just use wd40 throughout, wont be a problem
  20. 81mm mate. Hard to tell in the pics but the bolts look suspect at best to me. Dont think ARP would stamp maxspeed badly onto there bolts. £80 is cheap for peace of mind
  21. You can go to 1246 but liners are getting a bit thin, 1216 is the ideal capacity. There are quite a few people have been using these rods in turbo bikes and from what I can gather they are pretty good. Just worth buying some actually genuine ARP bolts.
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