Dezza

Will there be an OSS stand?

My eyes hurt

You can get pinholed tanks brazed if you take it to someone who knows what they are doing. I had a small trail bike tank done earlier this year by Racepaint near Nottingham. The tank then needs to be lined as a belt and braces approach. I used POR15 through recommendations here, there and everywhere. It's easy to use but not cheap but it does not fail over time like cheaper alternatives, apparently.

Giles at Bike HPS (he is the boss there) is very helpful with such problems. His email address is on the company website. He looked through the main Brembo dealer database for me when given the dimensions for the disc mounts for a race wheel I have and then provided me with a list of the bikes from which the discs would fit. EBC also have a website with measurement data on so you can cross reference discs from different bikes with the same part numbers. The main problem I find with trying to match discs from different bikes is the lack of the offset measurement, which is rarely easily available. This can be a major hassle if you intend on using radial brakes for obvious reasons.

As said above by wsn03 it would be useful to remove the carbs and check where the leak is coming from as this should not happen if all is well. In addition to worn needle valves/seats, such leaks can be down to perished O'rings where the needle valve seat goes into the carb body. Fuel then effectively bypasses the needle valve and flows directly into the float bowl.

Yep, this is why I am putting the slabside sump (and ignition) on the blandit engine. I am building the bike first around a blandit 12 engine but will later switch to a breathed on 1100 slabside engine as that is what my frame was designed to house. The slabby motor is to be built around the bottom end and Wiseco pistons I bought off of you I can switch motors without altering exhaust, oil cooler routing, wiring loom etc. if I use a slabby sump and ignition on the Blandit 12 engine. That's the plan anyway.

OK, thanks Clive.

If I change the stock Blandit sump and oil pick ups to those from an 1100 slabside is that all that is needed? Or are the 1100 slabside oil drain tubes needed too?

I think it's CP racetech, GSXR884 on here, but I may be wrong.

Frando do a 17mm radial clutch master cylinder. Venhill do them. I have one for my hydraulic conversion 1100EFE engine. It makes Jack Shit difference to the weight of the clutch pull though so it's going back to cable for increased parsimony. And less weight.

It's times like this that a Ledar induction kit is required. Wasn't someone going to start making them again so all this (expensive) Dynojet nonsense with stock GSX carbs becomes history?

Aren't you constrained to some extent by the rear upper engine mount? Unless you go in for major frame surgery to move the rear mount, if these mounts are aligned as shown in the picture with the yellow frame, doesn't this largely determine where the engine is going to sit other than being able to rotate it slightly around this point a little bit either up or down?

Email Giles Harwood at Bike HPS (easy to find their website). He helped me out with a similar problem and provided me a list of fitments from the data Brembo supply their main dealers.

Has great potential - do you still have the original engine to go back in?

Is that a model speedboat being used as a seat unit?

Fancy one-off six speed gearbox for road racing? What became of the dodgy numberless cases? Dunlop's 'xr69' has an engine with no number on it. I did see this at a bike show.

How tight is it? The oil filler is very close to the frame spar on my Spondon frame and that was definitely designed for a Suzukl engine. The cap just about comes off and a flexy funnel will just about go in.

Interesting - would this mod reduce the likelihood that an older bike fitted with one of these new fangled lithium batteries becomes engulfed in a ball of flames?

Whoever decided that Bimota would never build a frame to house an oilcooled GSXR motor should hang his head in shame

Ok, thanks for replying. Yes, I think these carbs must have been used on other non-Suzukis too so can be hit or miss when the source machine is unknown

Blue, can you confirm you were able to fit BST 38mm carbs from a watercooled GSXR (must have been a 750W) to an oilcooled head using those particular rubbers? What bike was the head from? Also, did you find out in the end the model from which the carbs rubbers came from?

Save yourself a whole load of cash and buy some 2nd hand 3ohm coils instead, either as used on Suzukis or others. Kawasaki ones are good (the ones used on ZZR-1100s and a whole lot of other models) as the leads are easily changable. There is little advantage using dyna coils except for space with those dinky little ones. In my experience the green ones are prone to cracking.

The JMC is in the trick frames section on its own thread but the pics aren't that close up. I am guessing it has had the head mounts removed and replaced with a mount that now uses the original mounts at the front of the cases. I assume you mean the front lower mounts. Many non-stock frames do not use these at all. They don't even bother with the bottom frame rails, e.g Spondon, Harris Mag 2. A cradle frame may need them though e.g. Harris F1, XR69 rep. Whether they can be replaced by an additional mount at the head could probably be best answered by a bike frame expert, e.g. staff at GIA or the bloke I know who's fixing my tank at the moment (I can give you his number if you like).

Those JMC alloy frames for GSXRs had this but the last picture of one I saw had a conversion to use the normal front mounts in a similar manner as used by Spondon, by using a removable cradle at the front