Dezza

Can someone who has Torques AN10 180 degree fittings on their oil cooler please give me some dimensions of the fitting. I need the total height (H) and the distance between the U (U), to ensure I can get them to fit round my cooler and clear my bottom yoke to retain more than 0.5mm of steering lock, or else I am going to have to buy an AN8 cooler. Pic below shows the measurements needed. Please also state the type of fitting, as the big fat ones are clearly very different to the others. Thanks in advance.

Chimps do have opposable thumbs and would probably make better mechanics than many 'in-the-trade' as would pandas

The adapter screws into the sump and requires a copper or aluminium washer of the correct size. No tape needed. The hose fitting comes apart and the threaded bit that comes off goes over the new hose. It should be a fairly tight fit. The rubber part of the hose goes on the spigot that is now exposed by removing the collar but the external braiding goes over the lip that goes around the outside of where the rubber inner hose goes on. Oil the braiding then screw the threaed collar back onto the fitting and tighten. There will be youtubes videos that show you how to do this.

A Harris or Spondon frame in the bedroom is completely understandable; a blandit frame in there? That's just weird......

I just looked at a slabby 750 frame that is going to form the basis my next build (beginning 2030 probably) and the frame number is JDM the same as ST's. Says 1985 on V5 though

Ask GSXR Sam. He does a spffing Yoshi rep cover for a very reasonable price. I have one on my efe engined bike.

What is JDM?

Ok, thanks.

Ok, thanks Clive. Do you have a link?

Is there a straightforward way to remove the starter (sprag) clutch from a slabside crankshaft without resorting to using a special puller?

That explains it - Swiss models of just about every type of bike are heavily restricted in various ways and have been for decades. Maybe something in carb tops preventing the slides from opening fully and also restrictors in the exhaust? Nice colour scheme by the way. Maybe also the carb rubbers have 'webs' causing partial blockages as did early 1000 EXUPS and 1100Ws, which can be recified with careful use of a modelling knife.

What is the cause of oil pump disintegration like this? A simple case of failing to use threadlock somewhere?

I my be able to do one day, maybe just ride the bike up, but I cannot be sure which day at the moment.

Try asking your local bike shop (if you still have one) to order the required OEM parts and ask how much. I do this in the UK and his prices for Suzuki OEM bits are the same as on the Robinson's Foundry website. I get many of my bits from him and he is sensible and pragmatic when it comes to MOTs and does tyres for me cheap without making even a scratch on my fancy wheel rims. We need the little bike shops but they cannot stay in business unless we buy stuff from them every now and then

I finks that is wrong gasket. The required parts are for an 1100EF motor not a GSXR 1100. If the EFE head is coming off, personally I would check all the valve seats, de-coke and replace all the stem seals too. And check the rings/bores

The arrangement of the wires on the coils would will not explain why you have no spark. The different orange+marker wires each go to a different coil. Unless you have both going to the same coil you will get a spark (just if they are on the wrong coil the bike will not run properly if at all). If you have no spark check all the wires to and from the CDI unit, as described by say what now!? 1460. The methods to do this will be in the manual for whatever engine the bike came out of (750j.k.l??). You can also check out the wiring for the switches, kill switch etc. and the coils at the same time. If all else good and still no spark, then the CDI is buggered. Try a known good one from another oil cooled bike with the same connector configuration and if you get a spark then you need another CDI. This would explain why the bike was sold cheap as a non-runner.

I would if I could as I live nearby but I cannot do the whole weekend

Every day a school day etc. etc. I did not know that the 750EFs have 6 gears. Any old switch of the correct o/d may therefore be OK if only a neutral light function is needed.

It's a gear indicator switch then (including neutral). These are common to several large air cooled Suzukis, e.g. most of the GSX1100 range, if this is the bit that has been damaged. If the 750 uses the same part as the 1100s then this will widen your search. Even if a switch from a Blandit, GSXR etc. fitted, these only have a switch for neutral, so your gear indicator would stop working (not that that is a big problem). A dr 350 is unlikely to have a gear indicator so I doubt if this has the same switch as a 750EF.

Can you try and cross reference part numbers from different models? Maybe try the part number from your seal on Fowlers' website to see if that seal is used on multiple models and then you can check to see if the neutral/gear indicator (which does it have, there is a difference?) plate part numbers also tally between your model and others.

There was a bloke at Newark autojumble last year flogging brand new ally replica gs1000 tanks for 600 quid a pop. Sounds dear but they were really superbly made, and were made to fit stock mountings. He had one painted in GS1000S colours and it looked stock and really good. Can't remember the tap fitting though. He told me he knew a bloke who worked in the classic car trade who would only make a batch even though he only wanted one, and was flogging off the others he did not want. I should have taken his number, even though I don't own a GS. Doh I suppose on the off-chance he may turn up again, so Newark punters keep a look out.

Yep, keep it. You'll only regret selling sooner or later. PS, do you still have the rc30 seat unit?

The obvious gap in this is the lack of an oilcooled GSXR1100 engined Bimota, a fact that borders on a crime against humanity.

Many thanks for that everyone who replied