Dezza

I have some he did for me a while back I ended up not using so will take some pics if I remember to take my camera to the garage. Why not message him on here? Had a few minutes before tea time so here you are.

Got a 40 quid 19 row job coming soon and a new 10 row 115mm Mocal for 36 quid (head cooler going in seat unit) but that will need a couple of -8 adaptors. What's sphock? Something from Star Trek?

GSXR Sam on this site makes a nice rearset, very similar to the ones in the pic He could have made you a set 4 years ago, thus predating the problem which would then never have existed in the first place

Yep, I was wondering that too. The ultimate OSS mystery of mysteries: where are Steve Burns's bikes?

It's a nice framed bike but still only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Whoever was trying to flog Hag Hughes's old FZR1000 Harribox a few years back was struggling to get 10k for it as it was on ebays for ages

Just goes onto ebays and type in Harris in cars and vehicles catergory and go to motorbikes and scooters.

Weird: the ZZR engine is the same size in most places as a GPZ900R (I have owned both), unless the stock head, carbs, and airbox are retained. Changing to a GPZ1100 wc or a ZRX11 head enables the use of non-downdraft carbs and mucho space reduction, and the wilder ZZR cams go striaght in. Just a thought for building a v-powerful but cheap special as wc Kwaks are cheap. The Ian KIng Harris GSXR looked to me like a cradle frame, an alloy version of the the F1 even though it was referred to as a Harribox, which looks completely different (ex-endurance version on Eblag at the moment for much quids).

When the bike is warm does it run OK? If so, I had the same on my efe engined bike. It's the very fine drillings for the cold-start circuit that get blocked with varnish. These are in the float bowls and in the main carb bodies. It is fairly striaghtforward to clear the float bowl holes as you can see if they are blocked or not by squirting carb cleaner. For this I used wonder wheels wheel cleaner applied with a syringe (it's fairly acidic). For the main bodies, it took several attempts using various methods to get it all cleaned out. First, I soaked the carb bodies overnight in a mixture of acetone and cellulose thinners (it's probably not a good idea to smoke when mixing this solution......). Make sure all rubber and plastic parts are removed as the solution will destroy them, and if the carb bodies are painted, they won't be afterwards. Then it took three attempts with ultrasonic cleaners, first with a mild citric acid solution, then the usual carb cleaning solution. Take care if using acid as if you leave it too long it will remove your zinc plating from the steel parts. Eventually, this worked after I also realised I had a weak spark due to a faulty CDI unit (thanks to Sheep on this site for selling me his spare to get me out of a hole).

Doesn't the 1157 ECU/CDI require a resistor in the ignition circuit or a Blandit 12 ignition switch to work?

Looks like I'll go with a 40 quid job. The last oil cooler I bought was about 30 years back and it's still going strong. I suspect that taking care to mount the things correctly and to route the pipes well have more of an effect on the likelihood of failure than the brand of cooler.

I am going to buy a new 19 row 330 mm wide cooler (AN-10). As we know, generic items are freely available on the interwebs for about 40 quid a pop, whereas something like a HEL works out at double that. (Earls and it's just fucking silly money so no point in discussing that.) Has anyone any direct experience in quality differences between generic and branded coolers? Or do HEL just get the 40 quid ones in bulk, put a sticker on, and then offload them to mugs like me for a massive profit margin?

Have you made sure you have aligned the front wheel in the forks? If I remember correctly, the stock forks clamp the wheel spindle underneath on both sides so it's possible to tighten everything up and not have the spindle correctly aligned. If you loosen the spindle and clamps slightly, get someone else to sit on the bike and butt the front typre up againgst a wall, then tighten everything up. Also, does the bike have an oversize rear tyre? The E(EFE) came with 2 rim sizes for different markets so make sure you have the correct size back tyre on for the rim. Stock size for most markets was a 130. Go bigger than that and you are asking for trouble. When was the fork oil changed, and when were the rear suspension linkages greased? Check the wheel alignment with a straight edge. The marks on the swingarm, they tell lies, lies, lies. Does it still have the original shock? If so this is likely to be knackered. If all the stock chassis parts are good play about with tyre pressures, but the EFE is still never going to be as stable as a ZZR1100, especially at speed (remember the Australian recall?).

Grumpy now sells LeDAR induction kits for OSS bikes so anyone running stock carbs with no airbox and an unrestricted pipe can easily and cost effectively get their bike running well. Just like in 1985

Nice to see a bike of this age that has obviously been cared for well since new

Clive's frame is also braced on the inside in the hollowed out well sections of the stock frame near the swingarm pivot. He showed me this at the recent Newark show

Buy a 750 slabby or slingshot frame for a 7/12 with the aim of the finished bike to be at least 40kg lighter than a stock 1200 Blandit

It looks like there is variation at 2 levels: 1) the resistance rating of individual coils and 2) the overall length of the coil. From what I gather, early coils are 1.5 ohm but some of the slightly later ones are 1.3ohm. Presumably, both of these would be OK to run on a stock OSS engine's ignition. The very latest coils have a lower resistance (<1ohm) so are not suitable for an OSS motor. The coils vary in length but I do not know if any are too short to use on an OSS motor, or so long they look naff and/or cause clearance issues so hopefully someone who has done this and can remember precisely from which machine their coils came from can fill us in.

This is good to know as I can replate mine when the weather gets better. They always look minging with dirt/corrosion/paint and this greatly peturbs me

Ok, thank you OS for your useful advice I now know I need to go for 1000 up to and including K8; 600/750 up to and including K5

Ok thanks. I would appreciate that

Ok, it sounds like I need to source the newest set possible. From where did you get the connector blocks that fit the top of each coil?

Ok, that enables me to widen my search so many thanks. Did you use the loom that came with the bike or make your own with new connectors? Also, was there any particualr reason for going back to conventioanl coils and HT leads?

I think i am going to try stick coils on my oil cooled project bike. (Green dyna coils are shite as they crack and a set of the mini jobs and leads costs a fortune.) I know a few on here have used the items from the GSXR 1000 but I was wondering if those fitted to the later 600s or 750s would also work. The 1000 is based on a 750 srad engine (at least the early ones were) so this is why I am asking.

Ok, thanks for that. I think Isopropyl alcohol is the main constituent of 'panel wipe.' There are a huge number of different alcohols, all of which are available in different forms of purity. Ethyl alcohol is definitely the most popular and easily available though.......

Interesting. Which type of alcohol?