Dezza

Smaller gives better power but increased lever travel. Bigger bore gives a firmer feel but reduced power. To get the best of both world's, this is why the radial front master cylinder was invented. If you want to keep the stock EFE forks, wheel and discs maybe try what arnout suggests and also different pads. Changing pads often has almost miraculous effects on braking performance.

Are the GSXR carbs from a watercooled model? If so the spacings are different to an EFE; if from an oil cooled GSXR then the spacings between the carbs will be the same as an EFE.

Sounds like someone has their data mixed up. 1100 ESD is 114 and EF 124, both models would have been available new in 1984. The EF motor is 10 up on the others as it has a larger capacity, a different head (and the associated parts) and bigger carbs. Bikes for the swiss market would be well down on power but this would be a lot more than 10bhp claimed. Here an EF engine is an EF engine regardless of its year. People will fall over themselves to get one whether it was made in 1984 or later so just revel in its awsomeness and don't get hung up on numbers on a website

Is that Danny Pedrosa's new ride?

Yep, that is what I was thinking

If it's for a competition bike then maybe go for a non-vacuum alternative tap with a single outlet and a simple T or if flush 2 outlets. It's not as if reserve will be needed if it's on a non-road bike. Then non-CV carbs when possible (???) although as we all know these aren't exactly cheap for a decent set.

I did not realise the 750 DOT head fitted the slabside engine. I have a Frankenstein 750/1100 engine with 750 slabside cases and a 1052 top end. It's obviously seen better days and needs attention but I am reluctant to keep the 6 speed box as the gears must be narrower than the 1052 5 speed and it's not as if these engines are lacking in low down and mid-range power. My aim is to use a bona-fide 1052 bottom end with 78mm wiseco pistons with the 1052 head and barrels from my Frankenmotor. Would a DOT head work with this or would the compression go through the roof? If the 1052 head is best what cams would be optimal?

I thought the 1100F carbs were the same as for the GSXR1100J - BST34. Those definitely look the same as the bank I have just rebuilt. Anyway, if the tap reserve has a separate spigot, personally I would run from the tap 2 into one T then another T to feed each carb so everything is getting its fair share. Isn't one spigot for the vacuum take off though? Or is that another one?

Great base for a project as it has all the (expensive) right bodywork bits. It obviously needs an 1100 engine but these are now getting more difficult to find.

If the plates and o rings on the 520 are the same width as on the 530, the gap between the chain and tyre will be the same with both chains.

Many thanks, this will be very helpful

Yes, this will be helpful

Many thanks to all for your input. The intention is 'less-is-more' at every opportunity for my Spondon build so I should be able to use a cable clutch on the intial build (Blandit 1200) and also when it gets a slightly breathed on 1052 motor at a later date. It has to have a 1052 engine in as that is what the frame was originally built to house but all I have at the moment is a tired Frankenstein motor built out of various 750/1100 bits into 750 slabside cases, a good 1052 bottom end and a Wiseco big bore kit for a 1052.

Does the 600 Blandit sprocket cover and cable operated clutch actuation mechanism work on an 1100 slabside engine? I know it works on a 1200 Blandit but there are some clear differences in that area of the motors.

Blingtastic times the speed of light squared

Yep, that is the article I was droning on about

Nice one. If you give Harris the frame number, can they tell you what engine it was originally built to house? There is an old article in Motorcycle Mechanics Fortnightly on one of Jim Wells's 750 Kawasaki's with many great pics of the bike with the bodywork off, which would probably be of interest to you as the frame is almost identical to yours. I cannot remember which issue though, and I flogged all my old bike mags (8 boxes of them) about 6 years ago. Wells's bike did indeed have 16/18 inch wheels, and was about as minimalist as possible.

Blingtastic squared

Blingtastic!

Why does your mate use the larger oil cooler on his bike as the head cooler, and the smaller cooler as the 'main' cooler? Or is there something there that we cannot see? I ask as I am going to use a small cooler in the seat as a head cooler (to appease my vanity as much as for any utilitarian purpose) on my bike.

Weren't most of those frames made for GPZ750 motors (F1 went to 750 in 1983)? I think the rear mounts for the GPZ 750 and GSXRs are the same. It is certainly feasible though that it was made around a GPZ600 motor, as then it would be eligible for F2 at the time (600 four stroke and 350 two stroke limit). Will be following this closely as it looks like a great project

Blandit headers are made from double-skinned pig iron so maybe best avoided as 750Ws aren't exactly anorexic.

If you changed the alternator gasket, did you remove all the electrical terminals to the reg-rec, pull them out, thread through the hole in the new gasket, and then put it all back together or do what everyone else does and cut the gasket, and then use a bit of 3 bond or hylomar on the join? If it's option 2, your leak may be somewhere there and getting into the starter motor recess from outside on the case. A long shot I know but as said above all the other options have been explored.

Yep, they vary between a bit more expensive than reasonable to wanting top dollar for a pile of rust. I only buy stuff from them when all other alternatives have been exhausted

What model of these new fangled R1 thingies? There seem to be 99 different versions