Dezza

What's a friand tray? Anyway, does that frame spar prevent the fitting of e.g. RS carbs to this engine when it's in this particular frame? I ask as MikuniOZ sell Rs's for a lot less than they cost here and it looks like they are just up the road from where you are

Check the wiring continuity from the CDI unit to the coil feed. If that is OK, check the wire continuities from the ignition pick up to the CDI. Check the connections in and around the CDI unit. If all this checks out OK, borrow another known good CDI unit. My EFE CDI failed on one circuit so I was getting sparks on 2,3 but intermittant or no sparks on 1,4 so a faulty CDI is possible but check the wiring first.

How much? Please send pm Clive

Dunno but Sheep on here had the same problem. I think the answer is OEM and use the OEM clips, not jubilee clips. With jubilee clips it is easy to overtighten them and help with the cracking. My efe engined bike still has the original rubbers and clips, no cracks but they need warming now to get the carbs back on

Anyone know if German spec 750l,m also had 38mm carbs as did UK spec bikes? I know at the time the carbs on 750s for different markets had different sized carbs and Germany is one possibility due to their power restrictions at the time. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Whether the stem is too long or too short can depend on the the thickness of the top yoke. Same frame, same stem may work with one top yoke but not another

About a 1000 years ago I used to have a stock efe front end on my magnum 2 and it's a simple bolt-on job after first removing the stock lock stops so stems must be compatible.

I have a spare loose head and can borrow some DOT head rubbers so I will try this soon.

At least it's not on fire, like what happened with my last Italian vehicle.

I now have some RS38s (od 42mm on the inlets) and there is no way in a bazillion years that without surgery they will go onto the largest carb rubbers I have (stock Blandit 12, id 40mm). Which rubbers do I need to get these buggers on? I was thinking of GSXR 750L,M which have 38mm carbs as stock but any suggestions appreciated The destruction manual supplied with the carbs says use a bit of WD40 on the stock rubbers, like that is going to help (the slabside 1100 rubbers I have, have an id of 39mm)

The 520 chain must have had thinner side plate, o-rings or both. If the inner face of the sprocket remains unaltered, and the overall width of the side plates+oring is the same for the 520 and 530 chains in question, the space between the inner edge of the chain and tyre must be the same.

Where is the extra clearance needed? A slimmer chain will only give a little more clearance between the outside edge of the chain and the frame. To get the chain line correct for a slabby engined bike with a 6" race wheel meant moving the chain inboard as much as it would go whilst still clearing the tyre or it would foul the frame. Simply changing chain sizes would not have done this.

14.28mm is 9/16"

If set up correctly it probably won't feel that flat; a nice 7/12 will be at least several tons lighter than a blandit 1200 and just by binning the stock pipe it will gain a few hp.

Don't forget to post the before and after pictures

WC 750 carbs do not fit an oilcooled engine, at least without inlet rubber modification, as the spacing is different. WC 750 carbs have different float bowls to the oilcooled 750 38mm carbs, which have large access plugs to enable the main jets to be changed without removing the float bowls like RS carbs. The WC 38mm carbs do not have the large access plugs.

No, use a good set of jump leads though that are unlikely to slip off of the connections

GS1000s - great bikes with such a massive potential for modifications. Please not yet another 'Wes Cooley Rep' though

Get a known good battery and connect directly to the starter after first disconnecting the bike's wiring from the battery, main earth, starter motor etc.. Connect the positive to the starter motor connector then quickly connect the negative to bare metal on the engine block. Sparks will fly especially if you are not quick doing this so it helps not to use this method in a garage full of paint thinners fumes or similar.... If the motor cranks over OK then the problem is in your bike's wiring; if it does not crank over, or cranks slowly, the starter motor is at fault.

Amazing - what the hell is going on with that fuel tap? Another cooled framed Suzkook that has had at least one half-wit as a previous owner. We should form a club

Use a dulte citric acid solution for rust on chrome. Many youtubes videos on this. Citric acid powder is freely available on ebays as it's a common food additive.

Pics that show the problem now in updated build thread in projects section.

Depending on the sprocket carrier design fitting aftermarket wheels is often a pain in the arse unless they are model specific because getting correct chain alignment is often not simple. I recently had to have a complete new sprocket carrier made from scratch because of this. Front should be OK if you are not using radial forks/calipers. With a mix and match of frame and engine parts it can be a bit of a pot luck exercise so treat it as an added bonus of all goes relartively straightforward rather than the underlying expectation

I shall post a picture of the cooler on the bike soon that will show the nature of the problem. The cooler and fittings on it have to be 100% perfect but there is no obvious way to get this right without having a large selection of AN8 and AN10 coolers and fittings at home to do it via trail and error. I have some but not everything so this is why measurements will be useful

Possibly Clive - no space at the top so cannot raise the cooler enough to allow bottom fitting of an AN10. A 180 or 150 AN10 may squeeze in though, otherwise I will have to get an AN8 cooler. Another alternative is an extra wide cooler but these are not exactly easy to get hold of and are very expensive when avaialble.