Dezza

Some of us have reduced strength in various body parts due to e.g. past crashes, so it's not that helpful spouting all the 'man up' bs when it would be very helpful to have a reduced load on our clutches. It's like saying to Mick Doohan that he should have simply 'manned up' rather than have his engineers invent a thumb brake so he could use the rear brake as he wished to after he'd smashed his left leg to fuck in a mega crash at Assen.

I'm NOT interested in the seat............Seems a shame to break it though as it looks like it has much potential

I have the Frando conversion (available from Venhill) on my efe engined bike, and it makes not one jot of difference to the weight of the pull of the clutch. It's going back to cable as I cannot see the point of added complexity for no clear gain. Here is a link to the high-quality waste of money. https://www.venhill.co.uk/controls-amp-handlebars/hydraulic-controls/frando/frando-clutch-cylinder-1270mm-long-11nbl.html

If you want it gone a good way to target the thinners or acetone is to use a cotton-wool bud so you can get the sealant off without damaging the case paint. This also works for removing overspray after painting engine cases.

Is the bike complete? If so, you can send pics of the complete machine and also the frame and engine numbers to the VJMC and they will send you a dating certificate for £30. I used this to register an ancient US import last year.

Two titchy batteries in the fairing Bimota style?

Do the barbs have air correctors fitted? I ask as this is the classic symptom that was resolved by the fitting of a LeDAR induction kit, which included air correctors fitted by tapping a thread in the small recess in the back of each carb. I am assuming you are running the stock or other CV carbs.

The fun may start the first time you give it some on a bumpy road, esepcially if the back tyre is worn....... There's reason why so many EFs run the wheels, brakes and suspension from later models.

I will dig both types out and compare. Obviously, it will be preferable to use OEM if possible due to cost and ease of sourcing compared with the Wiseco clips.

I have never worked on a shimmed Suzuki engine but on my old Kawasaki if anything needed doing it was usually because the clearance had closed up, presumably due to seat wear so a thinner shim was required. Often you can move shims between valves to get your clearances right and only have to buy one or two extra if at all. I do not know what will be the case after a head refurb though but someone less ignorant than me will hopefully be along soon.

Can OEM Suzuki circlips be used with Wiseco pistons (that cost more than 21 quid a set) or do I have to use Wiseco circlips too? I ask as the bore kit was low milage used so I have to renew the circlips. Thanks for any info.

Put a battery across the switching terminals. It should click as described above and you should then get a complete circuit across the large terminals where the cables attach. A multimeter obviously helps here. If this does not happen then the relay is knackered. A decent brand new pattern relay (solenoid) is about 10 quid off of ebays.

At the moment the OEM seals from Robbos are significantly cheaper than 'performance' or other aftermarket seals or am I missing something here? I ordered a set for an 1100 slabby head and the whole set of 16 was less than 30 quid. I try and order at least some of my Suzuki parts through my local bike shop but at the moment Robbos is doing mega discounts on many parts but you can only find out which bits are discounted by trawling their parts fisches for hours, and who would be sad enough to do that (rhetorical question of course) Arrived this morning with other discounted bits. The seals are 1-54 each plus vat so get them before they stick the price back up to 7 quid each.

On the parts fische there is a small o'ring for each valve. Presumably they are also required during a head re-furbish (?????). Also, genuine Suzuki valve stem seals are currently on offer at Robinsons Foundry at less than 2 quid each in case anyone is interested.

Yep, I noticed that too. I am just going to order a base basket for an 1100 slabby for 4 quid and 4 oil drain tube o'rings for 1.40 each. It's a shame they don't do a discount on the o'rings on a slabby head gasket. I need all 8 and they charge somewthing like 7-50 each but sometimes you win and sometimes you lose.

Many thanks for that! I have now ordered the appropriate parts. In case anyone's interested the clutch perch lever assembly for a 1000 and a blandit 6 cable are on offer at Robinsons foundry for £25 and £9 respectively, cheaper than secondhand on ebays.

Yes, I am doing a cable clutch conversion and the 750 teapot sprocket cover I have fits on both 1200 blandit and 1100 slabside engines. Check each cover carefully as not all oil cooled sprocket covers accommodate a gear lever post if you need this (the 750 teapot cover does).

It's not difficult finding pipes for oil cooled gsxrs, unless you want oem. One thing to bare in mind is the 11/12 engines are taller than the 750s so a pipe made for an 11 or blandit 12 is unlikly to fit well on a 750. Cans are cans.... Personally, I wouldn't bother with any oem pipe as they weigh a ton.

Anyone used this combo for a cable clutch conversion? I am 99% sure of nipple compatability but you never know until you haved fiddled with them directly

Yep, that's another alternative but you'll have to do a full 525 conversion.

xfam in Japan sell a range of great quality offset front sprockets for about 60% of the cost in the UK (at least they used to). I have one on my EFE engine and I think someone here later did a bulk buy for mainly gsxr sprockets. The page that listed alll the race sprockets is no more but I remember I filled in the contact form and asked if they did offset sprockets and got one by faxing a credit card number. The sprocket was <30 quid including postage from Japan but that was a few years back though. https://www.xam-japan.co.jp/

Maybe Basil was the last owner but one and simply lost the will to live. Good luck with the re-build!

New coolers are not too costly, look on ebays for one the correct size. The cost is mainly in the fittings and Earl's especially so personally I would make sure I know what size Earls fittings they are, then buy a new cooler of the correct fitment. Also the last leak I had came from where the hose meets the fitting, as it had gone hard over time but all that PTFE tape suggests that someone has tried this to seal mismatched hose fittings.

My guess is the bike get used in some races that require lights and others that don't, and the same fairing is used for both. Other endurance teams seem to get by quite OK without using those hideous externally mounted lights (lights mounted within an easily replaced fairing seems to have worked ok for most endurance bikes over the last 35+ years). Oh, the red brake carriers, front rim tape, and orange anodising on the calipers are naff too, but the rest is great.

Phase One build a spiffing bike. I like it too, except for the lights.