Dezza

You will be able to post a wanted ad after 50 posts I have just posted a carb to another OSS member in Norway for exactly the same reason but the only carb spares I have are for the 1100 EFE. Someone else may have a knackered set of 750M bst38mm carbs though with the bit you need.

Post some pics of your problem carb. Someone here may be able to give you a way forward

Looks like a nice one Ringo. Is it you that were asking me carb questions recently on ebays?

By the time I finish my curent project, I will look like whoever is standing by that bike. Nice bike though: and definitley original.

Strange - he is usually very helpful. Do you have an instruction sheet in English? I have 8 pages of gobbledegook in Japanese and I can only find single sheet 'manuals' for the wrong units on the interwebs. Daytona's website is terrible

I am interested as to how the Daytona unit works with a stock Blandit mk2 speed sensor as that is my intention on my project bike. The bloke at digitalspeedos.co.uk is very helpful and he informed me that Daytona units can be used with the associated wheel sensor or with a stock Suzuki sensor. I have not looked at the destruction sheet on my Daytona unit yet but on my Koso (which works with a 12v feed!) it has all kinds of different settings. For the speed sensor all that is required is to input the circumference of the wheel, in my case the rear wheel. So, if it used for example the same sensor on the front sprocket, depending on the final drive reduction, the front sprocket rotates multiple times for each rear wheel rotation. When inputting the rear circumference, then if the final drive ratio is used as a correction factor, the speedo should read true. E.g. if the final drive reducxtion is 3:1, the front sprocket turns 3 times for each single rotation of the rear sprocket/wheel/trye. On inputting data to the unit, if tyre circumference/3 is used, the speedo should work if the sensor is on the front sprocket rather than on the rear wheel. You need to find out how the Daytona guage is set up for different bikes (e.g. variation in tyre sizes) and how these are inputted to calibrate the guage correctly. If it isn't clear, then email digitalspeedos.co.uk and he will help you Just looked at the unit I have, it's a velona 15k multi gauge. The instructions are all in Japanese so that's a real fucking help

There was one as Reader's Special in PB years ago in the late 80s but I cannot remember which issue. Someone with a store of 80s bike mags may be able to find it.

Yep me too re: pattern switches. I now run a hotwire plug until I can get the mounting posts machined back 5mm to fit a previously dodgy blandit 6 switch I rebuilt, which now functions perfectly (these 4 wire switches are a doddle to work on!).

The OEM ignition switches are far better quality than pattern so it pays to fix the original if possible. A new OEM switch isn't going to come cheap, if you are able to find one. It is likely to come to bits but a bit of ingenuity may be required so first stage is take the switch off of the bike and remove all screws from underneath. You may have to carefully bend something back or prise bits carefully apart depending on the switch design. It looks like the wires will all come off of the tags for cleaning/replacing and re-soldering. When you dismantle the switch do this in a washing up bowl or similar as you are likely to drop tiny contacts/springs. After cleaning and re-lubing and reassembly, often you'll have a switch that will function well for another 40 odd years

Yep, the turbo people want them. I recently sold a rebuilt set on here.

Is powersceen (maybe slabby J) as the top rails differ. On the g,h slabbies they have really odd multi-section rails. According to the robinsons parts fische, the slab 1100 J has the same sort of rails as did the powerscreen, basically a single top rail. Someone's been faffing around with the idle adjuster on those, and I think that's another bit that differs but I may be wrong.

Yep, the alternative (but not really 100% legit) is to have the frame made with no number, then buy a donor frame of the desired type-year and a set of letter and number stamps (and maybe one of those DIY VIN plates too), remove the old number from the donor frame and then weigh-in or use it for parts..... This just all sounds so dodgy but I suspect it happens more than taking a correct Q plate/alternative DVLA route given the odd registrations displayed on many frame kit bikes.

If it's going to be totally legit, then I would say a Q plate.

I cannot read off of the rubbers the numbers - I do not have much space in that area of my bike but I will try again later when I will be working in that area. Here are some earlier pics from forum member blue, who kindly sold me the rubbers very cheaply. Maybe he has more information. The rubbers each have different part numbers and these reflect the sequence they are put on the bike according to cylinder number e.g. suffix 10,20,30,40 after tha main part number or something like that.

I have recently sourced some 750 L rubbers so I could fit RS 38s. They are an easy fit and you can also use the OEM carb clips from a 1200 Blandit. I can try and get the numbers if you so wish. I got the rubbers from posting a wanted ad on this site I think the 1st 750 slingshots 88,89 J,K had 36mm carbs and then they went to 38 in 1990,91 for the L and M models but I may be wrong here. 93 was W. The W still has 38mm carbs but the rubbers may be different.

For the 1109 kit I thought the stock OEM base gasket should be used? That's what I intend to do anyway. Last time I looked they were on offer at Robinsons for 4 quid a pop which should end up the deciding factor for most on here

Why is your steering head bearing adjuster nut above the top yoke?

This is correct. The active ingredient is sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) but it also has a foaming agent that makes it stick to vertical surfaces

Are you patient and do you like faffing about with chemicals? If so, maybe try to remove the old anodising chemically. Personally I would try this first by wrapping rags or sponges round the frame rails then soaking them with a caustic soda solution. Leaving the ali soaked in caustic soda solution for 30 min should soften the anodising enabling its removal with scotchbrite. If the results are positive the frame could be done in sections over a period of time, and then you'd end up with a frame you could finish with Belgom, which contains a wax.

Ok, I'll try the 1/2" drive impact driver

What is the best way to remove the three flanged cap head screws that hold the oil pump to the lower crankcase on an oil cooled motor? Mine is an 1100 slabside but I assume most oil coled engines are similar (unless the fasteners were upgraded). I have made an initial attempt with a 3/8 drive allen socket (good fit in head) with an extension but any more force and I can feel that the head of the screw is going to mash. I do not want to go in like a bull in a china shop as if these get rounded they are going to be a pig to get out. I was thinking of heating the section of the case where they thread into first, then using an impact gun but if anyone knows of a consistent way of removing these screws effectively then I would appreciate it as these three fasteners seem to be made from hardered cheese

Yes, that is a good point re: cable routing, esepcially on highly modified bikes and those with aftermarket frames.

After much deliberation I think gs7-11 is right here. If the clutch action is made easier to pull by changing the leverage ratio, then the clutch will disengage less for a given 'pull' so drag problems can occur. My hydraulic conversion must have had the same ratio as stock so it felt exactly the same as when it had a cable. Having a lighter pull and then it could get clutch drag so the best way forward is to first go with optimal lever, perch, cable and actuation mechanism by making sure all parts are in good condition, correctly lubricated and corrected routed. And ditch the 'performance' springs unless absolutely necessary (try 3 first rather than all 6) as this is a good way to having a clutch that feels like it should be on some sort of WW2 tank transporter rather than on a bike.

KTM RC8 WP forks are 775mm but you'll have to modify the top yoke or make a shim (they are 51/54 in size) and do a radial brake conversion. Some of their large capacity SM models had long forks too with axial brakes but they are gettting a bit old now (although not as old as the Japanese models listed above).