Swiss Toni

That's tidy! Lots of nice bits & pieces on it.

I may be able to date the frame later on for you. If anyone else has the info to hand...feel free.

Whip the head off for a look see.

Well Rick, there's one I could learn to love!!!

Most RWU's (and USD's) will fit with stem change. Some can be made to fit with comparable bearing changed. Dig your tape measure out!

Welcome! Bad news about the fire, but you've obviously said 'Fuck it' and got on with life. '85 had fibreglass lower fairing (belly pan) as std, twin seats, 3 bolt top/mid fairing panels, front mudguard (I think) is also different.

Well said, bud!

Hello matey. Welcome !

I can't wait to see what he comes up with next!

I'd swap containers. Pronto!!! If that glass bursts in your hand...you're fucked!

Aye! Just getting the paintwork done on mine. Hope it turns out as nice as yours!

Dads, eh! Gotta love 'em! Yeah, know what you mean. Wish mine were still here though! Ok, Boiler fella me lad! If you can't work it out by now, with all the info you've been given, It may just be time to think about delegating?

http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/6640-one-stupid-wheel-question/ Try this out. Everyone's over there! Hello and welcome, by the way.

That's nice. Decent size 'photo's too!

Your caliper hanger is the same as the one on my banana arm. I much prefer the look of your braced one.

You need the rear caliper hanger for the WP arm, as there's no torque arm to it. I was under the impression you'd also need the caliper to suit, but this may not be the case. Try the J/K caliper first. Just re-read your post. Yours is WP, mine must've been WN (banana). If the 'arm has no slot for the hanger to locate, maybe you will be able to use all your brake 'gubbins'?

Ok boys...I'll leave it to the pro!

Well, that's a bit of good news then! Thought I was going to have a right ball ache with it. Thanks lads!

A previous owner has 'modified' the lock stops on the 750 Slabbie. Welding is needed. I've heard old alloy is a bastard to weld, as it weeps shite into the weld pool. Is there any way I can ease the process? I've heard heat is good. Local heat, or ask the nice powder coating man to put it in his oven for a few hours?

If the 1100, over the 1000's capacity is gained by a longer throw, I'd say no, they're not the same. Possible easy way to find out is, go to Alpha Sports website, and compare part no's.

Would it be possible to contact Yoshimura with engine and chassis numbers, and ask them? They're bound to keep records. If it pans out, that's some find!

Yamabond/Suzibond...or Wellseal. Go with what's the cheapest/easiest to get hold of!

To true! Pleased to hear you got sorted out Rifty!

Mine had a WP shock. If you call Harris, and kid them on you've got a Mag 2, and ask them the stroke/spring rate of the original shock, you'll be able to take it from there. They're pretty helpfull!

Yup! Everything comes in 6, 12, 24's and 48s! Vacuum tap cures it. Anyway, back on topic. He may have been lucky in the fact it still turns over. But there again, so did mine! I'd guess the majority of fluid has probably gone past tired rings, and out the exhaust port. DTI is a good way to confirm.