Swiss Toni

That's the slide! As I said in last post, remove your cable and lube it. If it's beyond repair, renew and lube it. Re-route it back to the carbs, avoiding sharp bends. If you feel energetic, make sure your throttle is moving freely. You could also remove your carbs, you'll have to for a re-fresh anyway, and check the movement of the slides. Look for bright alloy on the slide, denoting high points, which you can ease down, and tears/rips in diaphragms, if fitted. And, as the carbs are off, dump them in the ultrasonic tank. On re-assembly remember....don't over tighten things. Most of them are either alloy or brass. They're so easy to strip/snap. Seeing as you're in the US, you could try FactoryPro for your spares?

There's no 'spring' on your floats. Boyancy takes them up, gravity brings them down. Are you talking about your slides being slow to close? If so, your first course of action is cable lubrication, then routing. Try that and see if it improves matters. What carbs you running? What bike? If fitted, could be a punctured diaphragm. I'd also check the return springs fitted above your slides are there, if vacuum carbs.

That's all the bikes, old and new, that tally up with the Slabby rear disc part number. So, you're tied to them, I'm afraid!

That do Ya? 1986 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL G/H) 1986 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL J) 1986 GSX-R750 - REAR WHEEL 1986 GSX-R750R - REAR WHEEL 1987 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL G/H) 1987 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL J) 1987 GSX-R750 - REAR WHEEL 1988 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL G/H) 1988 GSX-R1100 - REAR WHEEL (MODEL J)

It's mixed reviews on the conversion. Some say the 750 gears aren't man enough for the bigger motors, and some have had no trouble at all, after years of use. The conversion has also been used in race motors. I took my gearshaft in to work, to have it drilled for the 750 pushrod. The Turner said it would be a hard job getting a true hole through the shaft, due to the length, and tough to drill because of the case hardening! It's do-able, but not simple!

Could you try Engineers Blue on the gear that's catching, and, if it's rubbing on say, a bearing boss with plenty meat on it. Could you not 'ease' the obstruction to gain your needed clearance?

6 speed 750 Slabbie goes into 1127 cases easily enough. Can't be that much difference internally between 1127 and B12 surely?

If you're talking Harris...Bronze Welding. Similar to brazing.

Interesting bikes. Welcome to OSS!

Very special, and, as you'd expect, priced accordingly!

Cheers lads. Working now

Yup. No good! You're such a comedian Joris! However, I tried the key out of an 1100 Teapot, and it fits! So at least I've got a pattern to work from, if needed.

Check your email!

'99 Blandit. The locking fuel cap is causing problems. Key goes in, but won't turn at all. Dropped a bit of graphite powder into keyhole, and rubbed a bit on the key, to no effect! Still won't turn. Any ideas???

The original steel 'bridge' acts as a bit of a fork brace.

Thanks for that! Photobucket's fucked a lot of people's build threads up!

Not only that, is the gudgeon pin to piston crown distance the same on both models pistons?

Got any 'photo's of your mods?

PM me your email addy, and I'll see if I can send you a PDF.

Not yet. Daughter lives in Morrinsville. Might go out next Dec/Jan.

Hey bigpants! Welcome to OSS! Looking forward to seeing the Slabbie build.

+1. Or you'll bugger the lip up!

One going into my ET!

Try screwing a couple if self tapping screws into the seal, 180deg apart. Then pull it our with mole grips. Get the new one first though!

Hello mate, and welcome. What part of NZ you in?