Swiss Toni

Similar, Paul!

Don't lubricate it with oil, or WD40. That'll clog the works up in no time. Use powdered Graphite.

Take it to bits inside a freezer bag!

Stick to genuine Suzuki clutch plates. Better than the rest!

Pleased to see you got sorted, Duncan.

Very nice indeed. And before FBOAB says it ... 'Bugger me, that's shiny'!

Yes John, they certainly do! Couldn't see the wood for the trees! Thanks mate!

How do you get these little oil jets out of the 4 centre main bearing housings? Tried needle nose pliers, but they just slip off. Can they be blown out, and if so, from where? Motor is '96 B6.

Harsh ... but true!

That was common with the Triumph 8 stud alloy heads. No effect on performance, so lived with it. 9 stud heads solved the problem. Could be welded, but not cheap. As John says, might be worth looking farther afield to find the cause.

Just read your first post again. I see you want to stay twin shock. With a B12 arm, you'll need top hats to take the swinging arm spindle diameter down, (assuming 750 & 1100 frames are same width at 'arm mounting point). Otherwise 'arm may need mods. Get weld on lower shock mounts from Lucky 7, find a nice man who can weld, and away you go. As said before, a std. Kat/1100ET arm will fit with no mods, take a 160 no bother, or a 180 with a bit 'massaging'. Only going by my experience, as a 180 rubs against the stiffening webs on the inside of the arm.

Depends which way you want to go. Stay with the monoshock, or go twin shocks?

It's definitely a big improvement.

The bastards please themselves, and make it up as they go along. I can see us going to be lumbered with something akin to TUV. Our days are numbered!

@DorkburgerYour cable entry point angle isn't as severe as mine. D&D's points away from the bars. Needs further investigation. Looks like a visit to 'Wanted' is on the cards!

Perch was originally black, Dezza, it's been beadblasted. The bars I have fitted are a mid height sort of 'clip-on, albeit fitted above the top yoke. Std. Suzuki. Should the cable entry not be parallel to the bars?

Does this look like a std. 1150 EFE clutch perch. Std. bars, but looks to be pointed in slightly wrong angle!

Now I remember her! There was an article about her and the company years ago in SF. Shame about her hubby. Nice lad!

The old adage used to be, 'Run it in gentle ... and it'll be slow'. 'Run it in hard ... and it'll be fast!' They say if you saw what Yamaha did to brand new R1's to seat the rings, your toes would curl!

Try Kent Bearings.

Nice one, Ash.

If you email your picture to Robinsons, they'll do it for you!

I like it. And it is very tidy! Nice one!

My curiosity wouldn't allow me not to strip the bottom end to check its condition! Having said that, there's many will say, 'Keep the original motor' and many will advise fitting the B12. Both options have pluses! At the end of the day, it's really up to you. What you want to do! Aircooled motor weighs a ton, but is original and fills the frame nicely, Oilcooled a lot lighter/newer, but doesn't look quite at home! Your choice. And pictures ... We need pictures!

Welcome to OSS!