Joseph

I must say i have been experiencing with RS carbs for the first time on the bike i just finished, and i agree, they are great i' use. Didn't know about the shorter exhaust line effect, thats interesting. Is it really noticeable ?

Same issues on either i believe If you don't ride it that much it should be ok for a while

Won't solve the weak spot of the GSX engine charging system though. But it will fix the bike of course.

I have a k7 600 rim in my 750W ? It did need spacers done but not an offset sprocket. RF900 = Bandit 1200, also, and yes the older GSXR rims have a smaller sprocket to wheel center than K rims, they are maximumly offset to the sprocket side hence the slight headache to get them to fit

If it is just a top speed limit and not a HP limit like in france, isn't it just a matter of changing the ECU to a uk one ?

I'll add my 2 pence The reg/rec from yamaha R1 which is a mosfet fh0012 (also on ducatis, Triumph etc) Cheap second hand, the connectors are available on Ali, or kojaycat, It fits as does the original one (same size and bolt spacing) I fitted this to my first katana, my GSX750E and 1100, and my current 1135 kat It supplies 14.5V stable and constant throughout the rev range

Yeah like those chavs who test top speed of their Golf GTIs on dynos haha

Their carbon cans will be rather fragile 15 to 20 years down the line but the headers are very good in terms of quality and flow. I had a serpent header on my ZX12 it did look quite the part too

Well frankly if you're equipped it can't be too hard a job. I think i have a tail light bracket and i also have a s/h mudguard but it has a crack (although on the area behind the number plate so not too critical) The shorter back is a good mod though, many have done it before and it looks really good

Hahaha Too true ! I think it's cool (and has been tested as very efficient in use) I'll keep you posted

Yes it does. There is an L plate that fixes to the back of the light unit, and it os fixed to the rear mudguard via 3 screws. The mudguard is attached via the rear indicator tabs, and the two tabs with M6 screws on the tubes of the frame

Less hassle and cheaper in the long run to sell the current bike and buy a proper GSXR

Well i would say take the seat off, line up the tail piece with the side panels and see how much extra you've got to remove. Unweld/cut off the rear brace/hoop where the seat lock goes and move it up the rails accordingly You will need to fab the bracketry to fit the taillight on since you won't be using the mudguard anymore

Got a bit busy building something to replace the secondary light on my W It's cabled to the pass button for intermittent use obviously

It's actually funny how, once you update the fork and wheels with modern stuff it really doesn't look 40 years old

Except the original Katana was a real "new" thing, so not surprising it got such mixed opinions The new one is just shit Bendix sells brake grease, like lapping paste i bought a tube 20 years ago and it's still pretty full

Do you have a 750 tank ? Cause i have a NOS 550 i can measure

Looks like a fait bit went in And indeed, these lumps had all the power and torque a reasonable roadrider would ever need, even brought to today, the figures are well enough. Todays Chassis technology has beat them fair and square but apart from that

For starters, why the choice of a K shock ? There are several other "aftermarket" shocks that will fit and that have been tried and tested Otherwise, well, fitting an 89 swingarm is a straight swap (with the dogbones), and with a compatible shock, it's nothing that will keep the bike off the road more than a day You will need a shorter chain. Good idea to couple the swingarm swap to when your current chain and sprockets need changing, and while you're at it do the bearings too

1989 1100R swingarm is the shortest most straightforward option It is 553mm from spindle to spindle The following ones up to the watercooled bikes are 585mm (The 7s are 523 and 527, i guess they fit, but you probably wouldn't want to go that short on an 11) You will need longer dogbones to keep the stance correct on later bikes. I found this out myself and have done this successfully on my 91 chassis. Never done it myself but indeed i have always read that the modern GSXR shocks hit the air box

English is not my primary language haha

Ok cool. I think i will give them a try, not exactly expensive On another note i was told that the reason the F springs were harder is because they have more coils than the R springs. Makes sense that the extra compression would do that, but can't understand why a less powerful less torquey engine got the hard springs ? Anyway thanks everyone for their input in this headache

Ah good idea, i was wondering about that. Will see to test that tomorrow. As for the uprated and hydro clutch, will that be ok on the hand ?

750 is probably 6 inch i think Don't have the spacers handy but can look