Joseph

The oil cooled is a very heavy engine too btw

I agree that it's only for the OE output of the oil cooled that you would use them (and the pub talk topic of saying you have a drag engine in your grandmas bike). Its a hassle to do, a lot of things need addressing.

Oh to hell with the export market

In 92 the 750 was a waterboiler too anyway, so it's not like you didn't get what you could expect to get with the info you were given they're good machines, just use it as is

Smart car unless they changed last time i looked has an integral cast iron 3 cyl exhaust header merged into the turbo casing

Hey. Thanks for your concern Finally got it sorted here : https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/14942-gsxf-1100-clutch-discs/

6 speed 750 box with a bigger rear sprocket

Oh damn I didn't see you'd posted that. I need to compare to mine BUT I've been riding it tonight !!! I took out the clutch, removed the extra washer and put it back to standard And added an extra steel and ferodo disc Making it 12+11 And bloody hell it goes Lifting up in 4th Need to check it over but seems sorted

Ok, but therefore, if this is a 1052 hub, for 10+9, shouldn't it be shorter that a F hub using 11+10 ? I currently do have 11+10 in the clutch. Won't be easy to find the difference between the two, but i think i should look into getting an F one indeed

Hey Some good news, but still some issues and questions So, it turns out i had not checked properly, the fat washer was indeed behind the clutch case, due to how it fits it wasn't obvious However, in the interest of test, i added a second one, and then fitted the hub and discs. Turns out the pressure plate seemed to seat properly with this extra offset (and someone here mentioned adding an extra disc ?) So with all that put together, i did a road test. Turns out it is now putting down power to the wheel properly, however of I cane it a bit i get some clutch slippage (probably due to my set up and not the overload of HP ) However, having delved into the build topic i linked above, to check if i found any info, the guy mentioned he had used "a clutch hub and pressure plate from a 1052" Pressure plate has the same ref as the 11F, the clutch hub however does not. No idea why he did that however, rather than using the whole 11F clutch, maybe i should find a hub I am sure is a F ?

Yes indeed, but unfortunately rarely things as epic as in the UK, due to vehicle laws in France and quite a different approach as far as love of bike building hobby goes

Ah, well i bought this engine 2 years ago, it was built 10 years ago, I've done a bit of archaeology to find the topic. It's here but no photos left just descriptions of the jobs done http://forum.airhuile.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20462&hilit=1216

I missed that He parted out his project because he had to finish building his house, and this track bike 11R built throughout with race/endurance parts was holding a lot of cash. That and the fact that he decided to track his 750 SRAD This engine build was detailed on my french message board, he seemed pretty anal about it, it's completely new (cometic gasket set throughout, new shells and bearings. NOS gearbox, Ti valve shells and APE springs etc etc). Not sure why he messed up in the clutch department but it seems tight otherwise He never had it running, i'm the first to have started it and ridden a few miles with it

Right. I got the whole clutch basket out Using the hydro clutch system, with what i think is the correct parts for a 11F as far as rods and plates go However, @no classwas correct for the fat washer/spacer, it has not been fitted behind the basket. No ball bearing or anything else home made as far as the clutch goes

Well looks like an F crank with helical basket to me Need to take it all out to check those fat washer/spacers are there. Beyond that i can't see what else to check

So what is the problem with the clutch then ? Since that initial equipement was assessed the current setup i am aiming for is a total F assembly but it's stuck somewhere. I just hope it's an F crank and basket, but i guess it's not

I'll have to check that. That would mean 11R crank in 11F case and therefore the potential beginning of a big headache ?

My engine case is V706 so that is F, and the reason why he used them and i forgot what he said is explained in that article, basically a straight swap for the box (provided you drill the shaft) and 100% clutch compatibility I'll take it all out to check if any aforementioned washers are missing

And as for the clutch mix and match : GSXR1127 89-on and B12 have a diaphragm spring, the GSXF/G have normal springs.The GSXR and B12 have a straight cut gear, the GSXF/G have a helical cut gear.Because of the different gear on the clutch basket, the clutch basket is not swappable.Since the types with a diaphragm spring have a longer shaft to accommodate the bolt for thecentral spring, these parts are also not swappable. It is possible to use the internal clutchparts from a ‘normal spring type’ in the basket (or actually on the gear box shaft) from a‘diaphragm spring type’, but you need to fill the space on the longer shaft. It is notpossible to use the diaphragm style clutch on a GSXF gear box shaft, since the shaft is to short.

Ok, i went to have a look, this is what is said : 4. 750R 6 box in a 1127 motor The only hard thing here is to have a hole drilled through the gear box shaft, for the pushrod. The 750 6 boxes have a single row bearing on the output shaft, and the clutch does not have a diaphragm spring. So the easiest 1127 engines to put a 6 box in are the ones with a single row bearing on the output shaft, and no diaphragm clutch, ie. only the GSXF1127 engines. In these engines the 6 box drops straight in, only the shaft has to be drilled. Second easy would be an 1127R engine with a diaphragm clutch, but no double row bearing (88-90). In this case the box would still drop in, but for the clutch one would have to use the inner clutch parts from a GSXF1127 (with normal springs) and the outer clutch basket from the 1127R (with a straight cut gear, not helical). Most work is in a 91/92 1127R where one would have to match the clutch as above + find a solution for the double row bearing (the solution is actually to turn the double row bearing inside out, and make a little hole for the small pin). Of course the shift drum and forks from the 6 box have to be used as well, but they drop in any 1127 without problem.

Hi Engine i bought rebuilt. It has been modified (1216, cams, ports) and has been fitted with a 6 speed box from an 88 or 89 7R I have had the bike on the road, but its no good. Engine with bike on the stand revs well, holds a normal RPM idle Since tinkering with it i have found out that it was supplied with - 4 spring pressure plate clutch basket from F - 11R discs (so not as many as F, and, there was a steel disc contacting at the bottom of the basket - 11R clutch plate pushrod That allowed the bike to ride, but no speed, no actual acceleration but engine revs up then it kinda kicks in, all the symptoms of a worn out clutch.

With 11R discs (2 less) and the R clutch side push rod, it was operating but not engaging enough, just slipping. That said with that setup it was a steel disc at the bottom of the basket. That is what how the engine was set up when i got it

Just checked on cmsnl it actually gives 2.5 mm thickness for that washer. Doesn't explain whats going wrong with the clutch side pushrod sticking out too much however

Ah ! That is interesting. I will pop off the whole thing tomorrow. Any trick i need to know or is it just a socket on the impact gun ?

Center hub looks far out in the photos, i've just measured 1mm protusion of the hub compared to the outer basket