Gixer1460

Use the gear indicator 'switch' fitted to 750 and 100 ET's - I believe they are different sizes / diameter hole in cases and not sure which one its the Bandit - it replaces the std. neutral 'switch'........ Part# 37720-45100 is 750 ET type Part# 37720-09300 is 1100ET type The 750 is about $77 whereas the 1100 is nearer $50 - amazingly still available in the USA! Or you could mod your own Bandit one - you'll see the wear track on the rear side - lowest next to existing pin is 1st, furthest wear spot is 5th with 2nd 3rd & 4th equally spaced between! Drill, glue in brass buttons and solder wires to outside side.

+ not exactly local to West London LOL!

Tool steel should have better properties than 'regular' steel - whether they are applicable to gudgeon pin requirements is debatable. I've seen nice pins out of a GSXR - 20mm dia. that were deffo thick across the centre bore and chamfered to the outer edges maybe 2mm thick where they sit in the pistons - sort of makes sense, strongest at the single load point then shared to either side of the piston.

Second vote for Mr Cooper - race wins trumps all IMO.

Enthusiast lists aren't foolproof but using Suzuki's normal code methodology the V710 will have changed to V711 (as your's is marked) on the change of cam drive ie. the 'M' series. Assuming the head on yours is screw & locknut style, I wonder if someone has swapped out the M head to an earlier one as they didn't like the shim style?

Well if it is U703 - it shouldn't have that on the barrels..........someone's been playing with it!

Not sure if this is right / wrong and universal to all stud types, but the head ones i've used, generally have a short thread and a long thread either end and i've always threaded the short end into the case up to the end of the thread - never bottomed one out. My reasoning is the longer thread is designed to cope with different barrel / head heights so providing sufficient thread for nuts in all situations. Case studs (M6 and M8) I fit with long thread in fixed case position with nut on short thread as they don't ever vary.

DOH ! LOL!

Can't imagine anyone will grind a 'separate' cam for turbo GSXR's or Bandits, ie. they'll be the same! Cam sprockets are removable and interchangeable due to normal cam chain in GSXR's and Hyvo type in GSF's

Why buy hi-comp pistons then decompress them? 12:1 isn't totally un-usable on the road, just don't load the motor excessively when hot - it'll pink / knock but you'll have to do it for hours to kill a piston but add some nitrous (for example) and bye bye piston LOL! I'd use copper only because it can be annealed and reused but either will work fine.

There is always a nerd around to correct my mistakes - thank you LOL!

Don't know I'm not up on 750 year spec's!

Blandit rubbers will be stretched if used with 38mm carbs as they are designed to work with 36mm carbs! The ones you list are for 40mm carbs so will be an easy fit. Whether sourcing / using 750 38mm rubbers will be worth the expense / hassle is for you to decide!

Oil cooled GSXR and oil cooled Blandit engines are identical in regard to physical size / dimensions so as #9 any Slingshot frame direct swap and as easy in a slabside. #10 - maybe, as its likely same as the 'N' frame.

Yes - the long stroke engines are universal for head fit - you'll have to swap the cam wheels and it will have 'low flow' cams but it will work. GSXR 1100 'K' and 'L' (1127) had screw & locknut adjusters, Shims started with the 'M'

The fitting torque isn't critical to fitting studs IMO - as long as they are screwed in, using thread locker and all with correct fitted length, they will be fine - the nuts provide the clamping force, the studs just resist it! I don't think i've ever used a torque wrench on a stud - just wound them in, finger tight - mostly full thread depth unless height was critical - job done!

Replies in RED above. We do not do stuff because it is easy but because it is hard LOL!

Sensible option! How many 'load sites' does the software allow you? Most people tend to try spacing them equally over the rev range although most of the action happens between cranking speed and 4k. So if you had 10x rpm sites you could start at 500 and every 500 to 4k with last at 10 or 11k - you need the resolution low down as that is where the small changes are occuring. Good systems will interpolate between load sites so having nothing between 4 and 10k isn't an issue as it'll be the same regardless. Its more fun button pressing than cutting, filing, screwing and getting greasy (sometimes) LOL!

For a 4V engine its conservative - could go higher sooner and taller then back off ie. 1k - 10 deg, 1.5k - 15 deg, 2k - 20deg, 3k - 35 deg, 4k - 40 deg, 5k - 35 deg then flat line?

Wiseco recommend 3-4 thou or in metric 0.0762 - 0.1016mm. But that will take a bit of running in and is generally considered a bit tight if the engine is to be 'used' ! Around 0.007" or 0.1778mm is the happy medium . . . . . race motors may go bigger but they get more maintenance so. . . .

Don't know nuffin about the AEM - heard the name but nothing about the wideband. There are no recommended length between the sensor and the exh. outlet - longer is better because the closer it is to the outlet / end the greater the chance of the sensor 'seeing' atmospheric air, fooling the sensor into thinking the mixture is leaner than it actually is. Mine lives in a turbo dump pipe - about 12" total length and works ok.

They should all have same general electrical specs so it they fit and work then use either.

Love that description - 'worn out' LOL Resistors and caps and most other components are solid state ie. no moving parts and will generally either work or won't and unless you understand what the component values are / should be, its virtually impossible to fault find - well unless you have a science degree! Substitution with a known working unit is usually the only tested way or replace with an alternative system that can tailor the ign. curve - Dyna or others? A Bandit system may work but the pick-ups will be the unknown as physically not similar?

Valve heads are 1mm bigger, stems are the same at 5mm, stems on the 1100's are 0.5mm longer so should be able to accommodated with the adjusters. Its whether they can all be fitted into the chamber? Std. seats should be able to be cut to take a 1mm oversize head. Just thought of another option - turn down an 1100 valve to 750 size - I wouldn't adjust the length as the tips tend to be hardened.