Gixer1460

I'm sure behind most 'engineering mistakes' lies a distraction that occurred! It is hard doing what is apparently a 'mundane' task, your mind races forward to something more interesting and things get missed - i've twice missed folding the tabs on final drive sprockets and yes they both came undone ! ! ! Task lists and tick boxes look nurdy but they do work, and btw - age may bring wisdom but it doesn't improve memory !

Turbo's are driven by heat end of! A richer mixture will generally cool things down by not completely burning in the cylinder it also delays the onset of detonation also a factor in overheating an engine. But the rich mixture could be igniting in the turbine housing giving large volumes of gas instantly and spooling the turbine. Be wary of this occurring for too long - it is the method used in 'anti-lag' systems and if used too long or excessively it eats turbine blades / destroys turbo's ! If the system is fuelled correctly, an AFR of 12:1 WOT (IMO) is healthy . . . . . numbers below 11 and 10:1 are not and are masking excessive static CR or excessive boost.

You won't make many friends hitting them with attitude! You actually said the loom had six connectors - that doesn't imply no wiring fitted!

Whatever clearance you think you have, it 'looks' like the valves have touched! If it hasn't been started, you may have some bent valves. Freehand Dremelling valve cutouts isn't the best way, a milling machine and fly cutter is recommended just for accuracy and equal cuts.

Fork rechroming used to be relatively common when forks were RWU - harder to do with USD types due to disassembly required to permit grinding to size. Also chroming places not so common due to the PC / environmental bollux. It may be lots cheaper to buy better set of forks !

Well according to the manual - that CDI doesn't belong to that bike! GSX400E CDI has 6 pins (like a lot of Suzuki CDI's) and is case earthed / grounded.

What's going on with those valve cut-outs?

To increase sealing pressure - high CR's, Nitrous loads, and/or Boost pressure will usually blow a non 'o' ringed gasket.

Strangest MLS gasket i've seen - normally coated with something and layers riveted / tied together.

The gasket on the right is either a 'weirdly' coloured copper gasket in which case it'll need the barrels machining for wire rings or its a base / barrel spacer? The top right larger hole (stud hole) looks like it should take a locator ferrule?

If this is the same bike ? ? ? Then it looks like a simple oil seal but also you seem to be maybe missing the retainer plate hence why excess oil forced it out?

If you can find a decent parts fiche ( the ones on Alpha Sports are bad for this) - each stud is identified length and position. Just to muddy the waters - when changing to HD studs - they are one length, all 176mm ! Makes things considerably easier !

Sounds like you need a tap repair kit as well as smokey and petrol smell may indicate fuel in the oil / crankcase - have a sniff in the filler hole?

Being a pedant ! ! ! Only the outer is a basket - the inner piece is a hub ! LOL! Sounds like you have one of those wanky Blandit type baskets - Ali with steel band, wear prone and weaker if subjected to significant power increase.

Would deffo benefit from use of banjo's - size the banjo bolts same as the threaded adapter into the sump - its M14 or M16 ? ? ?

Insitu. If in the UK - Robinsons Foundry - OSS gets a discount if you quote OSS membership when ordering!

RTV - sparingly!

Unless the engine tune warrants a better ignition - then no!

Have a guess - clue's in the name! How do you fill empty float bowls when you have a vacuum tap ?

Likely culprit? - excessive water i'd say! All things electrical - coils, leads, plugs, CDI all suspects. Spray everything with WD40 - its actual real purpose - water dispersant and try tomorrow!

And 'prime' really isn't designed for running under load especially with a turbo!

FFS! - why would a FUEL TANK breather be situated in the top of the engine!

Wash them in salty water, let them corrode white, the clear coat ! LOL!

But as soon as boost builds there won't be vacuum - anywhere - so the tap will shut off flow and carbs will starve! In a turbo install you have to use either a manual tap or electric one.

That 14:1 figure is not far off stoichiometric ratio @14.7 which although ok for cruise mode is pretty lean on power / under load - I'd err towards 13.6 - 13.2:1 for max power / safety!