Gixer1460

Very Posh!

IMO unless you are running an EFI system with sequential capability using stick coils are no better than Dyna coils - using Iridium needle tipped type plugs would be a better option for reliable fat sparks to light richer mixtures.

Absolutely nothing! There for added accessories if you wanted them!

Sort of a result - nothing ventured nothing gained!

2.5 - 3.0 bar is usual. It's the flow you have to match - look for car with at least 25 - 50% more power output than the bike will make to be safe.

Has an R1 more power than a Bindit ? - Yes . . . . therefore pump will be ok. But was the R1 '98 EFI - I thought they were still on carbs? If so, then no as you need a HP pump!

If that works for you - i'd bore either side and add an o ringed tube between - adds a little flexibility and width adjustment.

As I understand it, if any bit wears out, you return it and it gets replaced. Never tried it as my DJ kitted bikes always morphed into something more stupid!

No hope IMO! Do it properly - space the gap between 2 and 3, the 5mm required.

I think PDQ are still official DynoJet Dealers / Importers and should be able to supply replacements 'free of charge' due to the DJ lifetime warranty. The slides are deffo DJ modded! Trying to get std needles and emulsions to work without an airbox is an act of futility taking hours and hours to get anywhere near correct but never perfect. Blandit jetting is nowhere close to GSXR even though of the same heritage!

I've never had one apart as I've never known one to fail but 'spose anything is possible LOL! But you are unlikely to need presses and pullers to remove and replace the regulator / rectifier as that is probably what has died. I'm guessing it'll be under the plastic end cover, bolted or screwed to something metal (as heatsink) with either plugs or ring terminal electrical connections - best I can do without looking in the manual - if I do, i'll correct any mistakes later ! Watch how you re-insert the alternator as a) the o-ring can get pinched / dislodged and b) the gear may not align with the oil pump gear and crack it so don't force it! Just checked on Robinsons - don't look at the replacement cost ! ! ! Best obtain a complete s/hand alternator - at a guess - a fifth of the cost of the part !

144 is a DJ size so its likely been kitted - check the needles / emulsion tubes for wear as DJ have a lifetime warranty. DJ don't touch the pilots and should run fine with stock sizes. Maybe the slide drilling hasn't been done? That may affect the 'snap throttle' transition?

The OP is asking about a 'whole clutch' upgrade not plates - read the query! Unfortunately clutches are fairly individual to each engine although some parts may swap with some fiddling. If you have engineering / machine shop capabilities later model clutches can be adapted but its not straightforward! It may be worth getting a new basket 'hard anodised' - it won't cure the problem but it should help lifespan.

Impossible ! Dropping down a spark plug hole during servicing maybe . . . . . . . . but then you'd sort of notice? But from valve chest into a cylinder whilst running - nah!

I would hazard a guess at CMC possibly being Cam Motion Cams ? They look a bit second hand but not tooooo bad. I'm also guessing those bores have had a long life to get that shiny - i've seen 50k mile engines with less polish and still having hone marks visible! But what going on with that cam chain? Looks like a GSXR one has been used instead of a GSX one LOL!

What don't fit good? - rubbers to carbs or rubbers to the plenum? Can't understand why rubbers to carbs would be a problem as they are designed to fit together, ok not under boost conditions but it's usually not a problem if correct clips are used. But if the latter, then i'd suggest remaking the holes for a better fit - this is the only bit you can control. There are plenty of builds that use OEM rubbers, so they do work. Other solution is thin wall silicone hose that is stretchy to accommodate oval and round pipe shapes but they do suffer with slippage if a bit of oil gets inside them!

But why did it die in the first place? Getting it to run is one thing - keeping it running is another! Plugs are generally reliable - my daily's plugs are approx 40,000 miles old and still going strong - just sayin'

Er - No! Bikes pre monoshock era never had huggers, probably for the very reasons you've found. The underseats were roughly moulded, roughly wheel shaped, to deflect most of the muck - directly into the electrics usually ! ! ! LOL. But if you are intent on using a bike during winter in the UK - either (A) budget for a scrapper daily that you don't care about or (B) invest in hosepipe / power washer and use it everytime you go out . . . . . . which gets old very quickly and makes you think option A was a better plan!

Will only identify a duff plug or lead. Swap the LT side of the coils 1/4 to 2/3 and vice versa and swap the plug leads to test the coils. Personally - single cylinder problem? - carbs more than likely.

Other than nostalgia, why spend money on something that's probably worn out and didn't work that well when new?

The spark at the spark plug on the other hand, ideally, should be blue and 'fat' - a thin weedy yellowish spark ain't gonna light anyones fire, reliably!

I obviously subconsciously removed the offending bolt / casting - no superhuman powers! Its not as if there are only two screws holding the cover on - don't stress, you can lose a couple!

Losing 6 or 7 teeth off the back means you get into chain run problems over the S/Arm pivot. Besides, a 17T front is kinder to a chain than a 15T. 18T would even better but that eats through everything LOL!

Confused ! The Blandit bottom cases are pretty much the same as a GSXR - Yes? I've fitted 532 pitch, 17T sprockets to both my Turbo'd GSXR engines without any problems - both were 3/8" / 10mm offset for chain run. Admittedly the clearances were minimal but they worked fine!

It would have to be a pretty atrocious exhaust to have that sort of affect so it may run badly but should rev out with virtually anything, so that means carbs! What are you using for carbs and filtration and what state are they in bearing in mind the state of the exhaust!