Gixer1460

Bearing in mind the age of the bike and the clutch basket is likely to still be original - notches in the basket teeth isn't uncommon and will certainly not help smooth clutch operation. Also non Suzuki fibre plates aren't a good idea with these either. Loose chain also good call!

I'd say they're worn and based on your description of previous maintenance, long oil changes is never good for longevity. Pattern parts may be available but quality could be questionable!

Eh? Squish is used to force mixture into the centre of the chamber so that is where the best burn occurs.

Difficult to see but next piston seems blacker so either it's richer or this is leaner / timing too advanced? Seems focused on exhaust side - detonation usually seen all over unless particular hot spot!

Straight cut teeth may seem an upgrade but they aren't as they are weaker than helicals! Also the 750 gears are a different ratio to the 1100 and spin the clutch faster or slower - either way it was a mod favoured by Prostock dragbikes years ago. Only bonus is..... they are quieter LOL.

Try and do a google search for screw in vacuum nipple 3mm - you may find something that will fit in the broken cover, secure with liquid metal or epoxy & job done. Like this? . . . https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/vacuum-connection-d45mm-p-133849-1.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=google_merchant&utm_campaign=google_products&gclid=CjwKCAjwsMGYBhAEEiwAGUXJafU3BCuClUR2PM3pPbKtImF0aJ1Z8-2u5jUSa_oDRbTRwFMMPNbV5hoCDGIQAvD_BwE

Have to ask yourself, what caused the breakages and could it happen again if reinstalled? It may work ok but another break could cause catastrophic damage!

Probably because most cv's are full of plastic that is 30-40yrs old and been flogged to death in all that time! If you could obtain new cv's it would solve a lot of the problems!

Except copper ones!

Not here for an argument but several Drag racers tried ceramic wheel bearings back in the 90's and 00's. Ceramics are actually harder than steel so a Ceramic ball on a ceramic track should last longer and without requiring lubricant as well. Brad O'Connor did some calcs based on the claims for the bearings and deduced if they were true, a steel bearing should heat up to the equivalent of about 100w ie. you should be able to feel distinct warmth. He never found this to be true in the real world, so draw your own conclusions. They are good bearings and are very low friction but unless you are sponsored would you use them? Probably not! Steel bearings DO heat up if you push them to the extremes of their operating window ie. machinery spindles rotating at 20k rpm and Land Speed vehicles going mile after mile at V max! These applications must use 'special' greases in correct quantities - they are that fussy!

Those 'filters' will lose you a few hp - Dyno proven. Might keep bugs out but do no good for airflow unfortunately!

If you want a direct replacement then go aftermarket - Electrex is a trusted brand in the UK. You could spend hours searching for an OEM R/R that will fit directly. Most are happy to use one mounting bolt and either use another hole or add a bracket as necessary - its not rocket science.

This is a Katana GSX1100SZ colour diagram - may help as I can zoom it ok?

The light switch thing was Suzuki's attempt to ensure the headlight got max volts when on. When off it just overheated the R/R as that voltage not used had to be dumped as heat! Easy conversion is buy any decent modern R/R - they'll usually have 3 yellow wires, a Red and a Black (or green if its from an 'onda) Connect the yellows to the three wires out of the ET generator, connect the Red to battery and Black / Green to ground or battery - (makes no difference. As the light sw. no longer gets power from the generator, take the wire that did supply it and connect to an Ignition Switched Live so it only gets 12v when Ign is on. Adding an in-line fuse to this wire would be good idea - 10A would be sufficient.

Banding is piss easy with steel wheels - still done with UK stock cars and other eccentric type sports - trials for example but a cast alloy wheel ? ? ? Nah!

Still applies - just not the going round corners bit

I did say 'pretty much' and as we are talking about two later oil cooled engines your point is irrelevant LOL!

F**k me doesn't anyone ever bother looking at wiring diagrams anymore ! Suzuki San has pretty much used the same colours for their loom since the Dinosaurs were around! You need to worry about Orange / white (12v+), Black/Yellow (coil 2&3), White (coil 1&4), Black/White (ground), Black/Red (or Red/Black) ((tacho signal), Blue (Ign pick-up) and Yellow (Ign pick-up). Everything else is Blandit related and not required to run a 'normal' oil boiler. BTW - Suzuki tacho's will often over read by 1000rpm and most engines are well past their power peak if approaching the indicated red line so having a 10 or 11k red line is largely immaterial!

Unfortunately yes they will. Any piston down the bore, will not / cannot have any beneficial squish! Whether it makes a big difference in the grand scheme is virtually impossible to quantify unless you build two engines one with and one without squish and measure output back to back! If you want any possible gain then pistons with required squish and to suit the application is a recommendation. IMO a piston with a dish and valve cut outs in the squish band, not utilising squish principle risks increased chance of detonation / uneven burn as mixture lingers around the edge / cut outs and isn't forced into the bowl. Its a take it or leave it situation.

You're going to Cop it now - Kats never had oil cooled, 11,000 rpm engines - no matter what the US importers called them! But in answer to the question - what is the problem?

Well according to the OP - It is a 17" already? So who is right?

What has the diameter got to do with the request? Personally, I wouldn't try reworking a near 40 yr old Japanese cast alloy wheel if my life depended on it!

Welding any oil contaminated metal, steel or aluminium is a total PITA! No matter how clean you think it is, with heat, oil will boil out and ruin the weld. Not saying it 'can't' be done, its just new will be more cost effective!

I'd disagree there - my 1127 with a 1186 kit made a tad under 20 rwhp more with no other changes other jetting - just sayin like.

Not trying to piss you off but a stock engine with some subtle mods AND fitted into a fully sorted / adapted chassis will do 8's NA. Hell, there used to be 2 stroke sub 500cc bikes that run lows 8 / high 7's in the UK. Power doesn't get you out of the hole consistently - chassis performance does. Chassis for time, HP for Speed, and in drag racing speed wins jack !