Gixer1460

Not exactly a budget build anyway! I wonder which bit is still / remains Suzuki produced ?

Slider clutch! Or twist and go for drag racing!

cos shaftie frames don't use 'normal' swing arms!

Electrics that old are going to try most peoples 'Grey Matter' ! When you said 'replaced the brushes' my immediate thought was Generator / Dynamo - surely not but looked up the parts fiche on Robinsons and its described as an alternator except its backwards to how we normally see them, in that the magnet spins via crankshaft whilst the field coils are stationary! The brushes are doing what - i'm not sure ! Do you have a workshop manual Suzuki or Haynes ? ? ? That should have a reasonable explanation and troubleshooting section. Its usually the regulator / rectifier that goes bad, either over charging or not charging at all. They are all solid state and un-repairable (by most people!) and usually have to be replaced with something else - usually from *onda or ^^hama as Suzuki charging electrics from that era suck big time! Some colour photos of rotor and plate assembly could provide info what bits to test and what to expect, as this is likely as much a mystery to us as it is you!

Yes, but the point is the filtered oil is delivered, at pressure, to the bearings whilst the un-filtered oil merely 'sloshes' around the head then drains back to the sump. I have no axe to grind, one way or the other and I do have my cooling circuit connected to the cam feed circuit without issues so far, but I've yet to see empirical evidence of cam bearing failure due - solely - to this combination, but I guess it is possible. Even if the bearing HP feed pressure was 'diluted down' to cooling circuit pressure (30+psi at a guess but with greater volume) that is still more than adequate to prevent metal 2 metal contact - Aircooled GSX's survive at considerably lower pressures for cosmic mileages! It is a good reason to keep on top of oil and filter changes though!

Unfortunately Clive, on this occasion he's right! See attached Cooling Oil Circuits diagram from the workshop manual. Cooling oil doesn't get filtered - bizarre I know but thats the way Suzuki designed it!

Aged battery? I'm guessing testing outside cylinder with 'down on power' battery also being pulled down with the starter motor? At least you are getting sparks - its when you don't, that real diagnosis starts!

Why ? Do you suspect a problem? Many thousands of bikes, road and track have used HD stud kits without under oiling the top ends. Don't forget, without the cam cover you'll get many litres of un-restrained cooling oil squirting every which way!

Yeah a 'rattle gun' will shift it - hold the hub with a gloved hand ! At a push, even an impact driver (the type you whack with a lump hammer) may do it!

Strangely . . . . if you buy that 'kit' RU - 2922 it costs £149.99. But if you buy RU - 2920 x2 it will only set you back £99.98 ! ! ! Its the same filter, just the first is two in the box and the latter is bought as singles! And yes the 60mm hole variants are the correct ones. https://www.knfilters.co.uk/ru-2922-universal-clamp-on-air-filter https://www.knfilters.co.uk/ru-2920-universal-clamp-on-air-filter

Just know that if you do use JB Weld and it doesn't work & you do have to get it welded, the job just became a whole lot harder, probably to the point of grinding the whole 'nub' off, back to clean metal and building it back up again, then drilling and tapping!

Interesting point ! I can't say I've seen any post or question here regarding use of DJ fitted carbs with a turbo. In practice, the DJ kit is fitted due to the loss of airbox & other airflow related modifications and they work well in this respect. I can't see any reason why they would not work as well when having forced air blown through them! Whilst standard settings / jetting can work - is it optimal ie. std. needles are shaped to deliver a leaner cruise mid range - just when a turbo is starting to make boost so not ideal. As most dyno tuning is only done at WOT, i'd guess no one knows exactly what is happening in the mid-range most of the time. Who's going to give it a go?

As said, welding not a problem if you get a GOOD welder - the hardest problem is getting the crack oil free, as heat from the weld will cause any oil to bubble out and contaminate the weld, might just have to give it a try!

According to Haynes that serial number comes back as a GSX1100 T - the only model starting with 1 - made between aug 79 & Oct 80 - Started at 100001. But is in the same production period as ET's and EX's but they started at 500001. Hope that helps.

Got yer finger on the pulse of the thread Clive LOL!

Easiest way is get an HPI check done on the chassis number - I had the same problem with SWMBO's trike, ie had chassis number and V5 had gone to DVLA and never came back, never been on road as a trike so came with no plate! HPI comes back with loads of info and most importantly, the original reg # when it was a bike!

Could be badly adjusted cable ? The usual test is decent road, bike in 4th or 5th gear at lowish speed but not lugging, apply a good amount of throttle. If bike speed seems to keep up with increasing revs - its not clutch! If revs increase lots more than apparent speed then clutch is slipping. May need plates but with older bikes (maybe with original clutch components) its a 'rabbit hole' and could entail plates fibre and steels, basket, hub, pressure plate and springs or any combination!

Just because something hasn't failed YET, doesn't mean it won't in the future. Better to 'over engineer' something now so that failure isn't an option later.

Probably - old Brit bikes used to have near vertical shocks on their short stubby arms, but shock & damping technology has moved on since then!

Sometimes its 'form over function' ie. they fit better that way ! In an ideal world the shock should be perpendicular to the arm through its travel for maximum stroke and damping effect but if you 'lay them down' then for a given spring pressure, they will feel softer and damping will be less - sometimes good, sometimes not!

Well excuse me for breathing! I was agreeing with a post above and the OP by his own admission higher up said that his main experience was with singles / dirt bikes not bigger bike engines, only later to confirm auto / diesel experience! Maybe because the 'internet of instant answers' / Google, wasn't around 35+ years ago when I started building stuff, I researched parts, comparing spec sheets to make informed decisions then went and did it, and no one taught me, I had to learn everything from books and/or trial & error. All the points and queries above are valid - neither you or I are standing in front of the bike or engine to know what state it is in, whether parts provided or sourced will work together or what machine shop facilities the OP has to rely upon! 'You/we' cannot build an engine over the internet - all the advice in the world can't help if the person turning the spanners is a klutz or an Engineer! And, as regard your last statement - I've more often than not advised a poster to get a workshop manual - OEM, Haynes, Clymer etc and read it and read it again as all the basics are there in black & white! And while we are talking advice - where are your pearls of wisdom in this thread? How are you helping the guy out? Have the site to yourself - it matters not to me!

I wasn't having a dig! The problem is you are there and we (for the most part) are here and we, for obvious reasons have to order stuff from the States so its just as difficult for us as you being in the 'land of speed shops' ! Here is a link to a source of stuff in Europe - piston page example . . . . most listings aren't available - these are but no idea on sizes! ! ! - https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1100g-1982-z-usa-e03_model15998/partslist/BLCK0011.html Prices seem almost double the out of stock items + postage will be steep from Europe but its a crap shoot if you can't find them Stateside!

I think this ^^^ is the real issue, that and your inexperience with the subject in hand. I don't doubt your mechanical skills but a 4 banger isn't just a single x4, they can be waaaaay more complicated and you are trying to modify it as well without the background knowledge of what's out there or what works with what. As said very few shafties get modified into 'go faster bikes' - that isn't their reason for existence! I'd start searching for OEM overbore pistons +0.25 and + 0.50mm - they won't be common or easy to find but you never know, they'll be an easy machining job and they are designed to work with extg. stuff. Valves - why change? are they burnt up or cracked? Maybe they are ok and its the guides that are worn? Maybe the seats are damaged? Any decent shop that does head work (especially on bike heads) will be able to source parts - valves, seats, guides and seals easier and quicker than you, stumbling through the swamp that is the internet of vague & incorrect & conflicting information. May be not much help but fixing 40yr old motorcycles with minimal spares is REALLY hard these days!

Which is doubly confusing as the Euro / UK GSX1100G was oil cooled 16v! but the GS1000G - 8v wasn't LOL!

But the OP isn't ! And IMD don't do stock std. sizes - pistons or rings!