Gixer1460

Thinking about things - there is no reason not to use TPS with auto correct to generate your baseline fuel map running NA? The correction numbers should be all over the place till the map gets dialed in. I am aware of people who have autotuned a blown set-up but IMO its too risky especially if boost fueling is on a compensation map as most of those have to be adjusted manually? If the fuel map reverted to RPM / MAP based then you could zero / turn off the compensation map and just rely on one fuel map with auto adjustment.

APE used to supply Tsubaki chains - don't know if they still do - good chains, i've never had a problem with them.

If 'auto mapping' used MAP corrections why are you using TPS for load on a Turbo bike? You must have MAP for turbo use so why not use it? Just reduce the correction limits to something like +15 / -5 so it never pulls too much fuel out and try it again whilst logging?

Read an interesting comment elsewhere - all engines produce a small amount of water and a proportion of this will get into the oil. Running the oil sub 100 deg C won't boil off the water so leading to increased contamination. With water cooled engines oil temps aren't usually much more than water temp but I believe oil / air cooled engines have potentially higher running temps as oil doesn't give up its heat to well. I don't think there are too many bikes where the oil does much more than 5-6,000 miles between changes when oil technology allows it to live well beyond 20k miles so a little overheating can be tolerated IMO.

I've got some of those and seem to remember they were about 1.2ohm individually? Are yours wired in series as that might explain your figure - but they'll be getting 6-7v only?

Simple question - would you connect 4 Dyna Blue coils (0.7 ohm) to your standard ECU? Because effectively that is what you are doing with COP's. Easiest way is just add a Bosch 2 channel Ign. Amplifier between the coils and ECU and it'll be mint! Any other way is underpowered COP's or potentially overheated / fried ECU.

Can't comment on the 'cheating aspect' - see this years Classic TT for that little nugget! But if the 750 barrel casting is thick enough i'd take the 750 liners out, bore the block and install the 1100 liners to retain all the screw lugs and markings. Obviously the bottom edges get shortened and crankcase needs opening out but it would look externally completely 750 stock! I remember Sean @ Big CC did a parts bin hybrid 750 that ended up at 995 - very over square configuration so revved to 13k easily and made good power.

That's easily cured by wiring the fuel pump relay via the oil pressure switch. Float bowls retain fuel for starting and pump will kick in after a couple of turns of the crank - especially on an oil boiler. Or just put the fuel pump on a separate switch?

That looks much like my Innovate LC-1 - see here.....http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php Hope this works out better for you, keep us up to date.

There is a tool to compress the valve in site enough to pick the shim out but you need to add one back in or the bucket will hit the cam face - not goo. Also run the risk of tool slipping and sending the shim into orbit! Best measure all, take cams out, measure shims - rearrange and buy what you need or find a suzuki dealer with a shim set and ask nicely if you can exchange some at a discount on buying new! Your lucky my M head came with no shims at all - Suzuki price x 16! Ouch! Hope 1.04mm was a typo LOL!

You don't know what boost you are likely to be using so an IC may be of no benefit and with IC's - small is not what you want. You want / need as big as physically possible a) to cool efficiently and b) to minimise pressure drop across the core. Sometimes better mixture / ignition control can minimise the need for an IC and unless you are running 1+bar boost for extended periods then it is more an accessory rather than a necessity IMO.

Unless it can be corrected by moving it one tooth on the chain - its the wear & manufacturing tolerances stacking up. Its usually the horizontal ones along the head face I used?

What boost are you wanting with what turbo?

My brain was screaming 'but they are aluminium' when I saw this - I thought you confused them with CV plastic slides! LOL The way they rattle around, its not surprising they crack!

That explains a lot. I'm aware that a lot of the top level racers in the US are using 'dry blocks' - saves a good amount of surplus weight and 30 seconds of total run time is not an issue for cooling.

Proper old skool hi tech before it was mainstream - a fav bike. Fair play for not doing a drastic update.

Looks a super strong block but the cooling looks much reduced compared to the fully wet liner stock block - discuss?

Seriously? You can't hydraulic a cylinder if the valves are open and you'll only bend them if they are! Over-revving doesn't need piston contact to occur (although it usually does) any valve float could catch one with the other or they've got overheated - ign timing wrong or lean mix?

1.25 - std M8

Agreed but your are then limited in bore size - 81mm. Most want to go larger - 84 / 85 and 86mm and for that it needs a billet block.

Direct from NLR in the Land of Uncle Sam. Designed for a Hayabusa but easily adapted.

This is mine - quite small but sufficient! That is an M10 x 50 screw that got modified to pick up on the pump drive and mate with the M8 cap screw holding the ign. rotor

Well it is very green - it was originally a Lawson rep in green but I like it. And i'm with Clive - don't like short arse's on old skool bikes - too German for my taste. Still if the old lady ain't going too anything's possible. Not too loud I hope LOL! Enjoy. I've got a photo somewhere I'll dig it out for comparison.

Not a scooby doo! Never seen any in several sets i've bought or box opened!

Would work but total over kill as its rating is sufficient to turn the entire sump contents over nearly 4x a minute LOL!