Gixer1460

Without AFR how do you know its lean? Something has changed between the green and red runs - what ? Cos the engine seemed to like it. Only ridden one Big Bore GS1000 - same spec bar RS36's was an absolute torque monster - yours has nice flat curve but seems low? What airfilters are you using? Any timing controls or running stock? What compression?

If you mean the carbs sit 'down' with their centreline more parallel to the ground - that is how they should be. It's the difference in nearly 6-8 years of development. Straighter 'downdraft' style is possible but you have to change the std. inlet rubbers for something like rubberised canvas pipe although if there is any measurable advantage, is doubtful. There have been lots of re-worked cylinder heads to increase downdraft angles but it's a lot of cutting, milling and welding to achieve.

How do you mean a 'straighter fit'? You are aware that the rubbers are sized to fit 34mm carbs and not 36mm - fit will always be awkwards!

I thought that at first - but its the black cable sleeve that makes it look thin....... look either side, it's a wide as yours is.

Two tap outlets - two hoses - two filters - two carb inlets - KISS!

Why would you have a seperate fuel delivery system between main and reserve? Most reserve taps just switch to a lower pick-up within the tank and send it down the same pipe/s to the carbs. Are u sure its just not a twin outlet tap? BTW - CV carbs are not ideal for racing purposes as power delivery isn't necessarily controlled by your right hand!

Funny never thought about that but had a look at a Dyna 2000 plate and the bottom cut doesn't look any different - maybe a tweak on the OP switch would have done the trick?

Ah! but I don't imagine that engine spends much time in the 4 - 6000 rev range - 'road bike' in the loosest interpretation! Do they still do the road ride, stop / start anymore?

Clive - just wondering - that alternator looks a little under driven (based on eyeball gearing calculator) Any reason, as alternators like to be driven fast due to low output with low revs? .................. does look trick though!

Nornal 'blue' type silicone will be ok for a while but it needs serious undersizing so it grips otherwise it just slips off and more seriously its not particularly fuel tolerant. Silicone hose for fuel applications is different formulation - and its v. spendy!

No - the Arm NOT the cam!

Unless you need them due to weak ignition - absolutely none!

And the ignition mod is to put a seperate switch in the power feed to the spark box / coils so you can spin the engine without sparks then once spinning, hit the switch and light it up. An engine will generally appreciate not cranking against spark induced cylinder pressure - hence the kick back if anything is weak!

Re above - funnily enough - generally a lot of 'seasoned' drag racers will move battery to the nose not the back....... weight at the back is just going along for a free ride - if its got to be there, it should be doing some good!

And people wonder why they have electrical problems - why can't people follow factory colours! Even better - just use 16A white or black throughout - at least you know its going to be complete guesswork!

Its a full circle with 3 chunks cut out of it - it will turn fine!

That was the whole point of my post! As most COP's are driven using ECU's having high power output amps (rare) or via standalone ign amps - Dyna longevity with COP's is questionable! Everyone assumes that they are fed 12v power - it could be lower so reducing the current requirements? They also tend to utilise iridium type needle tip plugs that require far less HT voltage to jump a gap - all adds up?

I'm confused - when does a Dyna 2000 EVER output 16A ? Most COPs are driven by standalone coil amps designed for high frequency and high current switching................Dyna's ain't!

Check the resistances - most that i've checked are sub 1 ohm usually around 0.7 ohm which when paired up is only 1.5 ohm and below the Dyna 2000 minimum coil range of 2.2 ohm. Not saying it won't work but dragging nearly 10A through power transistors designed for 6A can't be good long term?

Been done before................................but really not recommended LOL!

If its not structural - put a holes / holes in it.......... if it has a hole / holes - make them bigger. If its a fastener not holding anything important - use alloy. Use tank as a cover and fab up something that holds a couple of litres. Run total loss ign - save weight of alternator! Lose a disc and caliper off the front. Use a 125 sport bike front end with single disc........................how commited are you?

Don't think - Do! - Thinking hurts so generally it helps to do less of it!

If it is just a 'blue print,' it's a bloody good one , 15-20% over factory is a good target - yours is that + a few %. You sure it's not been bored?

How do you mean ' a relay to protect the battery'? Batteries wear long trousers so don't normally need protection! It could be high frequency vibration acting on the relay ? Follow the KISS motto - battery 2 switch 2 load with earth at either end! If you want to 'protect' the battery - use a main fuse 150A rated should be ok?

Hmmmm - many mods so you could piss around for months.......... if it was me i'd get this ..... https://dynojet.co.uk/djs-3306-jet-kit-stage-3 - usually work out of the box!