Rustynail Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Has anybody any ideas or tips for removing my cylinder head from my 750 es? I've been pouring diesel and penetrating oil down the studs, but its still stuck solid. Starting to annoy me now, had to come out of the shed because I was starting to look at a SLEDGE HAMMER Quote Link to comment
RUSSP Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I had this problem with my GS1000 you have to remove the head studs I kept putting penertrating oil down the studs and tapping them to loosen the crud around the studs. I managed to remove them all in the end with the help of a bit of heat but it took about 10 days in the end I had to replace a few of the studs as they were a bit damaged but at one point I didn't think it was going to move but it came away in the end l Hope this helps all the best 1 Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 You emphatically do not have to remove the cylinder studs to get the head off - no matter how claggy they are! There are 12 nuts and one M6 screw - if these are all on the bench it is just gasket sticksion holding them together. A dead blow hammer aimed upward or a carefully applied pry bar across the joint between the fins and twisted NOT smacked with a hammer usually breaks the seal! Trying to remove cylinder studs prior to removing the head would try the patience of a saint as there is little enough thread to get one nut on! 1 Quote Link to comment
KATANAMANGLER Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I answered this thread elsewhere. How many duplicate threads are there? 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 10 minutes ago, KATANAMANGLER said: I answered this thread elsewhere. How many duplicate threads are there? Two. sorry Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 2 hours ago, RUSSP said: I had this problem with my GS1000 you have to remove the head studs I kept putting penertrating oil down the studs and tapping them to loosen the crud around the studs. I managed to remove them all in the end with the help of a bit of heat but it took about 10 days in the end I had to replace a few of the studs as they were a bit damaged but at one point I didn't think it was going to move but it came away in the end l Hope this helps all the best I tried with stud extractor, but not enough clearance and no luck with two nuts locked together.Patience and penetrating oil required then.Thanks for reply. Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 46 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: You emphatically do not have to remove the cylinder studs to get the head off - no matter how claggy they are! There are 12 nuts and one M6 screw - if these are all on the bench it is just gasket sticksion holding them together. A dead blow hammer aimed upward or a carefully applied pry bar across the joint between the fins and twisted NOT smacked with a hammer usually breaks the seal! Trying to remove cylinder studs prior to removing the head would try the patience of a saint as there is little enough thread to get one nut on! Thanks I will leave it soaking and will get a dead blow hammer and try that Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Tap head all round with rubber mallet then again then again then again, eventually it should come loose. Cheers SRR 1 Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Ultimate penetrating fluid - cellulose thinners mixed with automatic transmission fluid. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks SRR thats what I've been doing, no movement yet but will keep at it. U.P.F. cheers Dezza will mix some up and give it a try. Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) Get a short length of 2"x 1" timber, stick it in the exhaust port at an angle, and give the end of it a whack. If it's gasket stiction, it'll move. If the corrosion on the studs has got it, keep doing what you're doing. And...don't go mad with the hammer. Be sympathetic! Edited February 18, 2017 by Swiss Toni 1 Quote Link to comment
Sheep Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I have been reading this and it surprises me that the head can be so hard to remove...I can understand the barrels being a bugger as the crud can swell at the bottom of the studs but does it build up at the top?? I honestly thought that the head would pop from the gasket when gentle force is applied!!...Stupid question (or not) but are you 100% sure all fasteners are out?? Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Is it off yet? Cheers SRR Quote Link to comment
RUSSP Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Sorry my comment was wrong I miss read your question I was thinking of the barrels on my GS1000 I had problems removing not the Cylinder Head hope you have sorted must pay more attention Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 12 hours ago, Screwriverracing said: Is it off yet? Cheers SRR Not yet, will let you know Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Fill one of the cylinders with diesel on the compression stroke, and then turn the engine over. 1 Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) If you do go down that road (diesel), turn it over by hand, not on the button, or hello bent rod! If you ever do get it off, a good tip on here a few years ago was; before fitting barrels/head was, get all the studs nice and clean, cut lengths of heat shrink tubing, fit to studs leaving thread free, and shrink it. Stops the corrosion problem in its track! Still as valid now, as then! Edited February 20, 2017 by Swiss Toni 1 Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) x 2 alignment bush's - one at each end - bet its stuck on them - you got the cams out so thread some rope or something soft but firm down the plug holes of 1 and 4 as an option to fluid - maybe just a good heat up around these bush's will do it Edited February 22, 2017 by nlovien dangerous brain cell activity 2 Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 You could allways but the oil back in, carbs on, plugs in and fire it up. Cheers SRR Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks guy's for all this advice, situation so far is the engine is hanging from shed roof, hopefully weight of engine and gravity will have some effect? Good idea with the rope or diesel though will try that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Oh YES the head's off!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Sheep Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Let me be the first to say 'HORAAH'........i bet you are happy now? ps...your head gasket must be knackered...it was letting fluid in to the cylinders lol Edited February 23, 2017 by Sheep 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustynail Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 OH SHITE!!!! head's cracked. Looks like I need another cylinder head. Don't suppose anybody's got an 1100 EFE engine to sell me that would cheer me right up Quote Link to comment
Danm54 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Its a little late now but you should probably have hung it from points over the dowels, not the centre Still, I'm sure you can use that again with a bit of silicone. 1 Quote Link to comment
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