Turbo bandit

[luke2152]

Have some 'busa pistons for it now.  Is there anything else that wants doing when I put them in.  Like heavy duty studs etc.  Also has anyone had any dealings with Western Rebores in Failsworth.  The are conveniently 50 metres from where I work.

[Paulm]

ive ran mine without heavy duty studs etc for the last three years with no probs at 11psi of boost [189bhp],now im upgrading the turbo we are putting heavy duty studs and nuts in the motor.

[Gixer1460]

Take all the sharp edges off the valve cut-outs - blend them or remove them or they will melt and make a mess!

[luke2152]

29 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Take all the sharp edges off the valve cut-outs - blend them or remove them or they will melt and make a mess!

These bits on the outside edge? how much material should i take off. just enough to blunten it? 

[Gixer1460]

Yeah - cut / grind them back till you've got at least a couple of millimeters of metal section. Anything less can glow and cause detonation and / or melt, smear down the bores / over the rings then its rebore time!

[MeanBean49]

Standard studs and nuts in mine, no need for em, no stronger than stock, wouldnt bother taking anything off pistons either, cant understand how they could ever be a problem unless your fueling is shit.

Been running up to 17psi in mine on stock rods, busa pistons and standard studs/nuts

No problems at all. Just need to make sure fueling is good

 

[no class]

33 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:

Standard studs and nuts in mine, no need for em, no stronger than stock, wouldnt bother taking anything off pistons either, cant understand how they could ever be a problem unless your fueling is shit.

Been running up to 17psi in mine on stock rods, busa pistons and standard studs/nuts

No problems at all. Just need to make sure fueling is good

 

Care to elaborate on your set-up ?  Ignition timing /comp ratio etc.... could be beneficial for others on the same quest 

[MrS819]

Busa pistons can get hot at that point and nip up the ring and ruin the bore. Worse on a Busa as they are plated. Doing the mod gives a bit more room for error on the fueling. But if the fueling is right then no proble.

[MeanBean49]

Standard ignition timing, whatever compression you get from using busa pistons on bandit rods and standard base and head gaskets. Around 8:1 i think.

Makes 278bhp and 200ft lbs at 15psi on normal 95 octane pump fuel.

Have got a big intercooler which i think is what helps keep it reliable

[ratboy1127]

Like this. Gonna be some craic

[luke2152]

Question about the vacuum take offs on the gsxr 600 throttle bodies.  The seem to have pretty small orifices in them (for good reason when balancing them).  Will they flow enough to operate a BOV, map sensor, FPR etc.  Should I use one cylinder for BOV, one for FPR one for MAP, one for boost gauge.  Or run them all into a small vacuum vessel to even out fluctuations.

[Gixer1460]

Connected and shared is the best way

[luke2152]

Making some good progress. Here are some new pics. Have fitted SRAD forks with CBR 929 yokes. Think thats the fuel and oil setup done. Bit more to do on the electrics. Still got to strip it to get barrels bored for 'busa pistons and loads of other small details.

[colinworth79]

On ‎25‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 10:09 PM, luke2152 said:

Question about the vacuum take offs on the gsxr 600 throttle bodies.  The seem to have pretty small orifices in them (for good reason when balancing them).  Will they flow enough to operate a BOV, map sensor, FPR etc.  Should I use one cylinder for BOV, one for FPR one for MAP, one for boost gauge.  Or run them all into a small vacuum vessel to even out fluctuations.

yes connect them all together . I made a small manifold up . If you only connect to one cylinder like I did the boost gauge years ago you don't get a smooth signal as the inlet valves open and shut .

Clutch cover looks ok .

[R1guy]

On 05/03/2017 at 4:28 PM, luke2152 said:

 

 

 

 

Details/info on scavenge pump setup please

[luke2152]

Scavenge pump made by guy in poland with a business called topbike. 200 euros. driven by a hex that meshes with the timing wheel hex. needed a little filing when it arrived as the hex was too long for casing to fit flush. but otherwise well made and hopefully works well too. turbo has a 500cc sump under it for oil to drain into as mechanical gear driven pumps aparantly dont self prime very well (compared to electric diaphram pumps).

[luke2152]

Yep nice work on that clutch cover colinworth. I'm going to link 3 cylinders to a small vacuum vessel and use that to link to map sensor, boost gauge and FPR. The 4th cylinder will link to BOV and the wastegate will have its own take off on the plenum

[luke2152]

Well i pulled my barrels off today ready to get them bored. will i need a ring compressor to get them back on or will the chamfered bit in the bottom compress the rings ok.

[jameskat]

A pair or more of ring compressors makes life so much easier.

[Screwriverracing]

26 minutes ago, luke2152 said:

Well i pulled my barrels off today ready to get them bored. will i need a ring compressor to get them back on or will the chamfered bit in the bottom compress the rings ok.

No necessarily, you can do it by hand, get to pistons up, put barrels over while compressing rings by hand, then turn engine over slowly to bring the other two pistons up and ease in by hand. Probably much easier with compressors, but I have allways done it by hand.

Cheers SRR

[luke2152]

Is it alright to re-use the piston pin circlips?  The last time I rebuilt a bike (many moons ago!) one of them failed and spelled disaster but I suspect it was due to me not seating it right rather than equipment failure.  Also the o-rings on the cylinder studs and all the copper washers.  I'm guessing they need replacing - should I be getting oem ones or just measure them up and finds something that fits.  I hate dealing with main dealers...but don't want to be doing it twice!

[Fula28]

Personally I've reused circlips if they in good shape! And take your time fitting them , double triple check everything. As for oil O rings allways use new O.E.M and same on head stud oil gallery type, Allways new ! Copper washers just anneal them with gas torch red hot and allow to cool then they will soft enough to torque down nicely. 

I allways used wellseal assembly compound on my oil cooled motors never had an issue with bigger boost.

[luke2152]

Was too busy to touch it for couple of months but back to it now. Engine is all back together with Busa pistons. Hoping to start it this week. Have made an ignition map - it's a slightly educated guess. Does it look like a reasonable starting point?

[Gixer1460]

The timing seems to be sloped right across the board - I'd prefer to see bigger numbers in the 3 - 5000 / up to 100 kpa as that will improve low end and cruise off boost with a gentle tail off toward max rpm and then trim some of the on-boost figures. Will a Bandit engine go to 11000 rpm? Can you re-space the rpm load sites for a bit more resolution low down ie. 600, 1000, 1400, 1800, 2500, 3000 and up to 10500? IMO, the cranking figures ie 500 should be sub 10 deg as mine used to kick back on the starter with teens? Are you using MAP compensation or is it just this table?

[luke2152]

Yeah its all sloped across the table - I just put some plausible numbers on each corner smoothed the rest.  Yes I can respace the rpm columns so I'll re do that for more low down resolution.  So maybe around 45 degrees in the 3000-5000rpm across the board?  40 degrees at 100kpa @ 10000rpm and 30 degrees at 200kpa @ 10000rpm?  Cranking ignores the table and uses fixed timing of my choosing (8 degrees?).  Ign table is just map/rpm.  I have the option of adding throttle position as well but think I'll keep it simple for now.