jameskat

This may help.

So channel 2 fires 1 and 4?

Don't know if it is still for sale, and requires some work, but it is desirable.

Or m/s

125mm on mine.

Angled floats and jets, I think you are getting into more trouble than it is worth.

The one I took apart years ago was just a lever with the output closer to the pivot than the input, I am sure i have seen someone on there make a longer lever and offset the cable clamp/adjuster point. Found it.

Is it a 750 swingarm?

Some info, https://www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htm

Slabside has 73 teeth (1052), 1127 has 72 teeth, so wrong basket. Info in here http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/clutch

As far as I am aware the 1052 should have 76mm pistons as standard, 1127 should have 78mm pistons as standard, 1156 should have 79mm pistons as standard.

D shaped dowels are fitted to bandit 1200 barrels, not sure what else.

1052 on the side of the barrels?

The oil pump gear swap on the 1100 is usually to use the gears out of a 750 16 valve plain bearing engine which have a different ratio (spin the pump faster).

More coils would make a softer spring (longer length of wire), larger diameter wire would make a stronger spring, fewer coils would make a higher spring rate.

Primary drive gear (49 on the kat, 50 on the 1150) and rods (18mm small end on the kat, 20mm on the 1150) as far as I know.

Hi there, as dupersunc said why not run a smaller front sprocket, 14 with a 48 gives almost the same top speed according to the gearing calculator.

The one I machined machined like cast/wrought iron so I just drilled and tapped the intersection in 3 places, but brazing would work.

The GS750 would have ball bearing headstock bearings originally, the taper roller bearing would be aftermarket and hence no way of removing except welding. If you are just after a measurement for the length of the stem then you can reinstall the GS750 stem and see how much is sticking out the top, then measure stem to where the bottom bearing seats onto the stem, subtract the stick out from the stem to bottom bearing length gets you your length. Don't know if this is any help.

My next project on is turning a gs750 frame into a katana (with an air cooled motor), got the frame and there is a lot differences, headstock takes different bearings in my frame 48mm od top and bottom versus 47mm top and 55mm bottom, but this can be sorted buy different bearings. The lock stop is different (offset tab versus plates on the frame). Lower engine mounts tab and plate, loads of brackets and reinforcements missing, side stand brackets different, some kinks in tubes by the side stand and on the opposite frame rail. Swing arm pivot looks smaller diameter. Not got to this project yet so could be loads more, if I had to get a frame now, I think I would hold out for a gsx frame because this is going to be a lot of work.

The pressure switch port in the oil filter cover is unfiltered so don't attach it there, the picture shows the plug for the main oil gallery (red arrow) which could work, I don't know where the oil restrictors (orifice) would be on the later engine but one should be used.

It is a plug for the cross drilling for the oil pressure relief valve and cooler bypass, it would normally be a socket head plug like No10.

Clockwise, crank rotates clockwise when looking at that end of the motor, so clockwise retards (closer to TDC) and anti-clockwise advances (more before TDC). Here is an advance on a GSXR, http://www.streetfighters.com.au/blogs/entry.php?46-How-to-quot-advance-ignition-yourself-quot , so you want to go the other way.

To fit blade style you would have to change the fuse holder, just get a few of the glass fuses, if you have a short your are going to blow a couple till you find the short.

OG is switched power from 10A fuse (4 Signal) for turn signal flasher, back brake switch, horn, front brake switch, side light switch and pilot lights. Neutral light is supplied via switched live from OG, LB is earth via the side stand diode to the neutral switch.