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jameskat

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About jameskat

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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  1. The one I machined machined like cast/wrought iron so I just drilled and tapped the intersection in 3 places, but brazing would work.
  2. The GS750 would have ball bearing headstock bearings originally, the taper roller bearing would be aftermarket and hence no way of removing except welding. If you are just after a measurement for the length of the stem then you can reinstall the GS750 stem and see how much is sticking out the top, then measure stem to where the bottom bearing seats onto the stem, subtract the stick out from the stem to bottom bearing length gets you your length. Don't know if this is any help.
  3. My next project on is turning a gs750 frame into a katana (with an air cooled motor), got the frame and there is a lot differences, headstock takes different bearings in my frame 48mm od top and bottom versus 47mm top and 55mm bottom, but this can be sorted buy different bearings. The lock stop is different (offset tab versus plates on the frame). Lower engine mounts tab and plate, loads of brackets and reinforcements missing, side stand brackets different, some kinks in tubes by the side stand and on the opposite frame rail. Swing arm pivot looks smaller diameter. Not got to this project yet
  4. The pressure switch port in the oil filter cover is unfiltered so don't attach it there, the picture shows the plug for the main oil gallery (red arrow) which could work, I don't know where the oil restrictors (orifice) would be on the later engine but one should be used.
  5. It is a plug for the cross drilling for the oil pressure relief valve and cooler bypass, it would normally be a socket head plug like No10.
  6. Clockwise, crank rotates clockwise when looking at that end of the motor, so clockwise retards (closer to TDC) and anti-clockwise advances (more before TDC). Here is an advance on a GSXR, http://www.streetfighters.com.au/blogs/entry.php?46-How-to-quot-advance-ignition-yourself-quot , so you want to go the other way.
  7. To fit blade style you would have to change the fuse holder, just get a few of the glass fuses, if you have a short your are going to blow a couple till you find the short.
  8. OG is switched power from 10A fuse (4 Signal) for turn signal flasher, back brake switch, horn, front brake switch, side light switch and pilot lights. Neutral light is supplied via switched live from OG, LB is earth via the side stand diode to the neutral switch.
  9. BY looks like tacho input, O is key on power (25A fuse on R)
  10. Copied form a site called Krypt racer, now gone, but available without photos on waybackmachine 21/08/2016. Have never been fond of any of the OEM crossover clutch release offerings. Ditto with hyd clutch release set ups and all the extra related parts/problems. GS/EFE style rack/arm with a cable to operate offers the best feel and reliability. Came standard on oil cooled 750 R models 88-91. MTC spacer and reworked 1100 pusher is all it takes to convert with non- lockup applications. Use the oem clutch rack that comes with cover. If the smooth cover is used the clutch rack may have to be
  11. Bolt 14 holds the shaft in place and the plug bolt in the head stops the pressurized oil escaping. I think that the thread was there to aid removal of the shaft, Is the other end solid?
  12. Powerscreen has a helical cut gear on the basket where as the bandit is straight cut, I know it doesn't answer your question.
  13. Just ideas:- Falicon rods Busa and not gsxr1100 (119.5mm instead of 117mm), stroker crank (I think you would have noticed and would have had clearance issues), decked block (seems a lot to have skimmed off) or pistons not to spec. What block is it 1052, 1127 or 1157? 1052 ran a 58mm stroke crank, others 59mm stroke. Don't know if 1052 block is shorter to make up for the shorter stroke.
  14. BST36SS (Mk1 bandit 1200) carbs are 42mm o/d and have been fitted to GSX1100 (https://www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htm). Not sure on the push pull throttle.
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