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About jameskat

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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  1. My next project on is turning a gs750 frame into a katana (with an air cooled motor), got the frame and there is a lot differences, headstock takes different bearings in my frame 48mm od top and bottom versus 47mm top and 55mm bottom, but this can be sorted buy different bearings. The lock stop is different (offset tab versus plates on the frame). Lower engine mounts tab and plate, loads of brackets and reinforcements missing, side stand brackets different, some kinks in tubes by the side stand and on the opposite frame rail. Swing arm pivot looks smaller diameter. Not got to this project yet so could be loads more, if I had to get a frame now, I think I would hold out for a gsx frame because this is going to be a lot of work.
  2. The pressure switch port in the oil filter cover is unfiltered so don't attach it there, the picture shows the plug for the main oil gallery (red arrow) which could work, I don't know where the oil restrictors (orifice) would be on the later engine but one should be used.
  3. It is a plug for the cross drilling for the oil pressure relief valve and cooler bypass, it would normally be a socket head plug like No10.
  4. Clockwise, crank rotates clockwise when looking at that end of the motor, so clockwise retards (closer to TDC) and anti-clockwise advances (more before TDC). Here is an advance on a GSXR, http://www.streetfighters.com.au/blogs/entry.php?46-How-to-quot-advance-ignition-yourself-quot , so you want to go the other way.
  5. To fit blade style you would have to change the fuse holder, just get a few of the glass fuses, if you have a short your are going to blow a couple till you find the short.
  6. OG is switched power from 10A fuse (4 Signal) for turn signal flasher, back brake switch, horn, front brake switch, side light switch and pilot lights. Neutral light is supplied via switched live from OG, LB is earth via the side stand diode to the neutral switch.
  7. BY looks like tacho input, O is key on power (25A fuse on R)
  8. Copied form a site called Krypt racer, now gone, but available without photos on waybackmachine 21/08/2016. Have never been fond of any of the OEM crossover clutch release offerings. Ditto with hyd clutch release set ups and all the extra related parts/problems. GS/EFE style rack/arm with a cable to operate offers the best feel and reliability. Came standard on oil cooled 750 R models 88-91. MTC spacer and reworked 1100 pusher is all it takes to convert with non- lockup applications. Use the oem clutch rack that comes with cover. If the smooth cover is used the clutch rack may have to be shortened slightly. MTC extended length clutch rack is required to clear the length of the weight arms on lock-up applications. CRG Supersport lever and OEM cable works flawlessly. A few clutch racks that are available.....Left to Right as follows; #1 is a slightly shorter modded srad unit that is needed if the smooth cover is used. #2 is a 88/89 750 R model that comes with the dimpled cover and can be used as/is. #3 came from a RF 900 w/ coil spring clutch. #4 is an extended length GS/EFE unit from MTC for use with lock up applications. The item on the far right is a modded 1100 hyd release unit. Remove the standard hump(?) and grind it just flush/flat, needs .003-.005 end play from backside of rack when everything is installed/tight.Bearings/shim(s) are OEM. May have to use 2 shims , then again maybe not. On the 89 750 cover w/MTC spacer everything went in as standard when using OEM pressure plate with out the lock up. Lock up install is still being sorted. Bit of trail & error here but worth it as the 750 rack/arm set up beats any of the OEM crossover pushrod installs. MTC spacers are about 90.00 US or so plus shipping. If no lock-up is used either the coil spring clutch or the later 89-up clutch in a 1052 basket is a straight forward install. Cut down hyd release pusher is there to keep the rack from falling in while installing the cover. Simple plug machined to the proper dims could also be used. 89 750 cover/rack on the left - Smooth cover and cut SRAD rack on the right. Cut 1100 pusher unit is a common as is the MTC 1.250 thick spacer.
  9. Bolt 14 holds the shaft in place and the plug bolt in the head stops the pressurized oil escaping. I think that the thread was there to aid removal of the shaft, Is the other end solid?
  10. Powerscreen has a helical cut gear on the basket where as the bandit is straight cut, I know it doesn't answer your question.
  11. Just ideas:- Falicon rods Busa and not gsxr1100 (119.5mm instead of 117mm), stroker crank (I think you would have noticed and would have had clearance issues), decked block (seems a lot to have skimmed off) or pistons not to spec. What block is it 1052, 1127 or 1157? 1052 ran a 58mm stroke crank, others 59mm stroke. Don't know if 1052 block is shorter to make up for the shorter stroke.
  12. BST36SS (Mk1 bandit 1200) carbs are 42mm o/d and have been fitted to GSX1100 (https://www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htm). Not sure on the push pull throttle.
  13. jameskat

    oil coolant

    www.carlsalter.com has free to download manuals, there are drawings of the cylinder head cooling system in the manuals but I have not seen a cooling oil pressure, only lubricating oil pressure.
  14. ART is a Japanese company and supply a lot of motorcycle manufactures. By the the look of the pistons they are forged like the ones for the hayabusa (81mm), so would measure the gudgeon pin etc and seeing if they match any production motorcycles.
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