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So im f*cked with this


HWB

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Posted

Start of season maintenance and checkup and this happened. Looks like water caused it to be jammed. Maybe from washing ? Anyways how can i remove the tip now wiyhout messing up the bodies

 

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Posted (edited)

I’d go for penetrating oil. Conical shape should be excellent in this case. Could you pressurise it to blow it out once it’s lubed loose?

Had an recessed airscrew giving problems. Kept it wet for days and kept trying. Took a while but got it out.

Lube it from both the front and the back (fnarr)

Edited by TLRS
  • Like 1
Posted

Ita stuck in the hole im trying to push it down it just wont budge, any ideas how to push it down maybe im doing it wrong

Posted (edited)

Noticed the washer/O ring missing off the broken screw do you know if that's what has caused the tip to snap off ? Is it or a part of it jamming the tip in the hole if so find out what will dissolve the "rubber" washer/O ring (I know it's not rubber but viton or whatever the material is ) and soak it till it breaks down ?

Edited by DAZ
Addition
Posted
1 hour ago, HWB said:

Ita stuck in the hole im trying to push it down it just wont budge, any ideas how to push it down maybe im doing it wrong

are you trying to push the broken tip down where the mixture screw goes ? if you are your going the wrong way !!!!!  push it from the bore of the carb up and out of the mixture screw hole. it'll never come through the tiny hole in the carb mouth. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Good luck - it took me weeks of on /off trying to do one in a set of RS's. Generally caused by screwing the screw down closed too much, it jams and just twists off! I used a needle pointed, sharpened screwdriver with tip bent at 90 degrees and work from carb bore.

Posted
3 hours ago, TonyGee said:

are you trying to push the broken tip down where the mixture screw goes ? if you are your going the wrong way !!!!!  push it from the bore of the carb up and out of the mixture screw hole. it'll never come through the tiny hole in the carb mouth. 

No mate the needle tip is tapered and will only come off from the bore out towards the bowl so actually im trying to take it out the way its supposed to come out in the first place but it just wont budge !

Posted
3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Good luck - it took me weeks of on /off trying to do one in a set of RS's. Generally caused by screwing the screw down closed too much, it jams and just twists off! I used a needle pointed, sharpened screwdriver with tip bent at 90 degrees and work from carb bore.

The thing is these screws are so smooth when turning them sometimes you just cant feel when theyve been seated ! 

 

I will try again tomorrow, any tips on how you managed to get it out ? Its really frustrating and i fear ill have to scrap the whole thing. Did you use heat ? Oil ? Any tips seriously mate will take any advice right about now

Posted

No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace the body!

Posted
5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace the body!

Been going at it all day again without any luck. Any idea where i can buy a body for it ?

Posted
14 minutes ago, HWB said:

Been going at it all day again without any luck. Any idea where i can buy a body for it ?

You could get a body from Allens Performance it won't be cheep thou :pimp: 

What size are they ...i have some odd body's from a fire damaged bike  

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace 

38 flat

 

Edited by HWB
Posted
4 hours ago, HWB said:

Been going at it all day again without any luck. Any idea where i can buy a body for it ?

One thing which sometimes works is to put the carb body in the oven and get the whole thing up to 120 - 150 degrees. Then with welding gloves on as @Gixer1460says, little block of wood and screwdriver or similar to lever with.

The alloy carb body will expand more/quicker than the brass which might be enough to separate them. Just make sure that you let it cool naturally afterwards. Oh, and it might be wise to do it when your other half isn't about.

Posted

Similar thing thing happened to me. Bought a set of used rs40s but didn't try them for over a year so couldn't return them. 

Discovered pilot had broken off and become wedged and no matter what I tried, I couldn't remove it. The cost of a replacement body outweighed the cost of buying a new set. 

The only thing I didn't look into was to get someone specialised to drilled it out but again, the cost would've been high.

I ended up selling the set as is for surprisingly not bad money and bought new

 

Posted

I would go the ultrasonic tank route. You get the heat expanding the body with the bonus of the cleaning fluid working it's way in. I've freed off no end of things in my tank.

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